Jerusalem, Israel Report of what it's like to live there - 12/22/16
Personal Experiences from Jerusalem, Israel
Background:
1. Was this post your first expatriate experience? If not, what other cities have you lived in as an expat?
Not our first expatriate experience.
2. What is your home city/country? How long is the trip to post from there, with what connections? How easy/difficult is it to travel to this city/country?
Washington DC - about 16+ hours, through JFK.
3. How long have you lived here?
2 years.
4. What brought you to this city (e.g. diplomatic mission, business, NGO, military, teaching, retirement, etc.)?
Diplomatic mission.
Housing, Groceries & Food:
1. What is your housing like? What are typical housing sizes, locations, and commute times for expatriates?
All mission community members live in apartments. Apartments in the city center are small and tend to increase in square footage as you move out. Places in East Jerusalem tend to be larger.
The commute is based on whether or not you are close enough to walk to the consulate. Most people prefer to walk because parking is not provided.
2. How would you describe the availability and cost of groceries and household supplies relative to your home country?
Groceries are expensive. More so than western Europe or DC Metro area. But I can find almost everything I want to find. Some items I must mail order through Amazon or Walmart or from family members, but there is not really much in regard to groceries that cannot be found. Sometimes you just have to ask.
Grocery stores are small -- like little Mom & Pop corner grocers -- but they are everywhere and almost every one has an little shop they can stop at to buy milk or bread or cheese. The only issue would be that many are closed on Shabbat (sundown on Friday to sundown on Saturday). But you can go to East Jerusalem or just plan ahead. You get used to it.
3. What household or grocery items do you wish you had shipped to post?
None - everything is available here.
4. What typical restaurants, food delivery services, and/or takeout options are popular among expatriates?
Many excellent restaurant options in Jerusalem and Tel Aviv -- too many to list. Eating out is great but super-expensive. No good Chinese options however. Food delivery exists, but they don't quite have it down yet. Takeout exists as well but they call it "Take Away."
5. Are there any unusual problems with insects or other infestations in housing?
Daily Life:
1. How do you send and receive your letters and package mail? Are local postal facilities adequate?
DPO. I don't know anything about local postal service.
2. What is the availability and cost of household help, and what types of help are typically employed by expatriates?
No real household help pool here at all. It is difficult to find someone to clean, even once a week. Israeli labor laws are fairly strict. Nannies/sitters are like gold here. It is hardly worth it for EFMs to work when their entire salary goes to cover childcare costs.
3. What kinds of gyms or other sports/workout facilities are available? Are they expensive?
Consulate has a decent gym, free, but it is located at Arnona (at the consular section) and so not very convenient to anyone but those who live or work in Arnona. Otherwise, there are indeed plenty of gyms in the city center but they are not cheap. There are a few pools, including a great 50-meter pool that many mission members swim at in lieu of running the hills here in the city. Lot of people enjoy the bike path for their walking, jogging, biking.
4. Are credit cards widely accepted and safe to use locally? Are ATMs common and do you recommend using them? Are they safe to use?
Yes, safe.
5. What English-language religious services are available locally?
Yes -- this is the world capitol for every religion!
6. How much of the local language do you need for daily living? Are local language classes/tutors available and affordable?
English is more than enough to get by here. Everyone speaks English. Some of the signs are only in Hebrew but I have not found this to have affected my daily life at all. If it isn't translated into English then it likely did not pertain to me in the first place. Movies are shown in English and have Hebrew sub-titles.
7. Would someone with physical disabilities have difficulties living in this city?
Maybe. There are hills and stairs and steps everywhere. It is a runner's dream (nightmare?) but there are accommodations for strollers everywhere due to the large baby-population so that can prove helpful for wheelchairs. The Consulate itself is NOT handicapped-accessible, at all. If you have a disability that affects your mobility, do not bid on this post.
Transportation:
1. Are local buses, trams, trains or taxis safe and affordable?
Safe and affordable but public transport is off-limits to mission personnel. Taxis are fine.
2. What kind of car do you recommend bringing to post, given the terrain, availability of parts, burglary/carjacking risks, etc.? What kind of car do you advise not to bring?
Bring a small car. Parking is a hassle here.
Phone & Internet:
1. Is high-speed home Internet access available? How long does it typically take to install it after arrival?
Yes. Can get it installed before arrival if your sponsor is pro-active.
2. Do you have any recommendations regarding mobile phones? Did you keep your home-country plan or use a local provider?
Local provider. Bring your unlocked phone.
Pets:
1. Are qualified veterinarians and/or good kennel services available? Do animals need to be quarantined upon entry to the country? Are there other considerations regarding pets that are particular to this country?
Yes. No quarantine necessary. but you must get the rabies titer prior to entry -- this could take a few months so plan ahead.
Employment & Volunteer Opportunities:
1. What types of jobs do most expatriate spouses/partners have? Locally based or telecommuting? Full-time or part-time? Can you comment on local salary scales?
There are many EFM positions at post. Both part-time and full-time. Local jobs on the economy are almost impossible to consider because most businesses require fluency in Hebrew, Arabic and English. Even if an EFM is fluent in all three languages, the salaries are so low, you can't cover childcare costs at all.
2. What volunteer opportunities are available locally?
There are a few but it is difficult because everything is so political here. All volunteer positions must be cleared through management first in order to ensure that political and cultural sensitivities are intact.
3. What is the typical dress code at work and in public places? Is formal dress ever required?
Work attire is same as at most posts, depends on your job. Most wear business attire. For public areas, almost anything goes because there are so many tourists here. Certain pockets in the city require extra caution in regard to what females wear (the ultra-orthodox Jewish neighborhoods, or very conservative Muslim areas). But no matter how you dress, there will always be a tourist wearing something worse/better.
Health & Safety:
1. Are there personal security concerns to be aware of at this post? Please describe.
Not really. Security in Jerusalem and in Israel overall is pretty intense. I think that petty crime is almost non-existent. Any security issues are in regard to political unrest. Set your alarm, lock your car, and be attentive.
2. Are there any particular health concerns? What is the quality of available medical care? What medical conditions typically require medical evacuation?
Medical care is excellent in Israel.
3. What is the air quality like at post (good/moderate/bad)? Are there seasonal air quality issues? Does the air quality have an impact on health?
Air quality in Israel is good. Remember that we are at about 3,000 ft so initially you may feel slightly winded but that may also be due to all the hills!
4. What do people who suffer from environmental or food allergies need to know?
There are nuts in everything. Pay attention. But many of the restaurants have keys on their menus indicating as much. If you have allergies to olive pollen then beware.
Also if you can easily support a gluten-free diet here. Vegetarians are very happy here!
5. Are there any particular mental health issues that tend to crop up at post, such as Seasonal Affective Disorder (winter blues)?
6. What is the overall climate: is it extremely hot or cold, wet or dry, at any time of year, for example?
Weather is pretty nice. Warm dry summers, mild winters with rain. Spring and fall are lovely. No one complains about the weather in Israel.
Schools & Children:
1. What is the availability of international schools? What has been your general experience with them, if any?
There are essentially two schools here for mission dependents. The American school only goes up to grade 7 or 8 and those grades have ridiculously small class sizes so socially there will be some disappointment if your kids are coming from larger schools.
The Anglican school goes up to 12th grade but it is NOT a state-sponsored school due to the religious affiliation to the Anglican Church. It is also an IB school. The class sizes are only slightly better. Still small.
2. What accommodations do schools make for special-needs kids?
I think that both the American and the Anglican schools work well with IEPs but there are no accommodations made for students who require any sort of advanced academic placement. If you are coming from a school system with a robust gifted and talented program, then you will be disappointed and will have to consider supplementing through other education resources such as the JHU CTY program.
3. Are preschools available? Day care? Are these expensive? What has been your experience with them, if any? Do the schools provide before- and/or after-school care?
Yes -- a ton of pre-schools. They are called "Gans" here. Many are conducted in English but you must seek them out through friends/colleagues, etc. They are cheaper than sending your pre-school aged kids to the pre-K programs at the the American and Anglican schools.
There are after school clubs at both schools but no "after school care".
4. Are local sports classes and/or activities available for kids?
This is limited and difficult for families who are reliant on extra-curricular athletics for their children. These are even less available to girls. Some of the after-school clubs at both schools help fill this gap but it is not a robust as one would hope for.
Expat Life:
1. What is the relative size of the expatriate community? How would you describe overall morale among expatriates?
It is large. There are a great number of consulates and govt organizations and NGOs in play here in Jerusalem in particular. But also of note is the great number of families and individuals who have made Aliyah (immigration of jews to Israel from the diaspora) so there are people from the whole planet here. Morale within this community is good because they are here of their own choice. Diplomats quickly tire of the constant politics and the tension between Israelis and Palestinians -- it seeps into every aspect of life here.
2. What are some typical ways to socialize, either with local people or with other expatriates? Are there groups or clubs that you can recommend?
There is so much to do in Israel -- you can continue whatever your passion is here and thus meet up with like-minded people. The bar scene is robust, the beaches in Tel Aviv are amazing, the historical sites are older than old, the religious sites are literally the holiest of the holy, and since Israel relies so heavily on tourism everything is pretty accessible and the security is top notch.
3. Is this a good city for single people? For couples? For families? Why or why not?
All. Singles, young couples, families, you name it -- all find their niche.
4. Is this a good city for LGBT expatriates? Why or why not?
Yes -- Israel is one of the most LGBT tolerant countries in the world. There is a robust LGBT population in Tel Aviv.
5. Are there problems with ethnic, race/racial minorities or religious prejudices? Gender equality?
Ha! Yes, and if you don't know this then you probably shouldn't bother coming here.
6. What have been the highlights of your time in this country? Best trips or experiences?
Saturday morning (shabbat) trips to Tel Aviv to hang out at the beach for just a few hours...
Masada. Ambling through the Old City with no real agenda. Shopping in Machane Yehuda for the makings of a great dinner party. Jerusalem Marathon. Tel Aviv Marathon. Any of the parades and festivals in the city when you get to see the full flavor of the city.
7. What are some interesting/fun things to do in the area? Can you recommend any “hidden gems"?
Masada. Beaches in Tel Aviv. Take your kids to one of the ten million playgrounds and parks. Day trip to Jericho because it's supposedly the oldest continually inhabited city in the world and because the cable car is so rickety and fun. Sarona Market in Tel Aviv for some sushi or bratwurst followed by a decadent dessert. Lunch at Old Man and the Sea on the boardwalk in Jaffa Port. The movie theater! The speakeasy! Shopping on Umbrella Street for that perfect gift for your aunt!
8. Is this a "shopping post"? Are there interesting handicrafts, artwork, antiques, or other items that people typically buy there?
Yes. You'll buy stuff here. Even if you swear you won't, you will.
9. What are the particular advantages of living in this city?
Hmmmm. You are at the heart of Judaism, Christianity (sorry Vatican), and Islam! It's all very fascinating especially if you don't consider yourself married to any of the above three...staying neutral is the key.
Also be prepared for everyone to come visit you... they all come, even the ones you don't want.
Also, Tel Aviv's Ben Gurion airport has pretty cheap airfare to some parts of Europe - so when you are tired of the tension or the religion, you can escape to Budapest, Cyprus, Turkey, Vienna, Rome, Prague, etc. etc. etc.
Words of Wisdom:
1. Knowing what you know now, would you still move to this city?
That's a tough one. Israel's quality of life is high. Jerusalem is a fascinating and fun city to live in. The work is rewarding and interesting. But the schools -- knowing what I know now, I would not have come here due to the schooling.
2. If you move here, you can leave behind your:
Skis, preconceived notions regarding the Israeli-Palestinian conflict, hopes for a palatial villa, and reliance on household help.
3. But don't forget your:
Cash, rain boots and slicker.
4. Do you recommend any books or movies about this city/country for those who are interested in learning more?
The Koran, the Torah, the Bible. Just kidding.
There are so many. I started with Michener's The Source. DoveKeepers.
I recommend not limiting yourself to only reading books from one side of the conflict. Reading both sides will be more productive and prove more interesting.
5. Do you have any other comments?
Cost of living here is high. You will find yourself bleeding cash in the first few months. and then you'll get used to it but you'll still be bleeding cash!
