Jerusalem, Israel Report of what it's like to live there - 04/08/18
Personal Experiences from Jerusalem, Israel
Background:
1. Was this post your first expatriate experience? If not, what other cities have you lived in as an expat?
Yes, as an adult.
2. What is your home city/country? How long is the trip to post from there, with what connections? How easy/difficult is it to travel to this city/country?
New York, 11 hours direct. There are no direct government flights to DC; one has to go through NY or an overseas hub.
3. How long have you lived here?
8 months.
4. What brought you to this city (e.g. diplomatic mission, business, NGO, military, teaching, retirement, etc.)?
USG.
Housing, Groceries & Food:
1. What is your housing like? What are typical housing sizes, locations, and commute times for expatriates?
Brand new apartment in East Jerusalem. Fairly big and modern, with very nice light. 20 minute commute to the consulate, 30-45 min. to Arnona. You could take the tram to the consulate with a short walk at the end, but a car is necessary for Arnona. The apartments in East Jerusalem are the nicest and biggest, but also the furthest from work and the least nice in terms of walkability of the neighborhood. The ones in central Jerusalem are smaller and not as new (for the most part, there are a couple of amazing, big ones with great views), but they are walkable to work and lots of restaurants. The only downside is West Jerusalem shuts down for Shabbat, while East Jerusalem doesn't. The apartments near Arnona are the worst ones in my opinion. They are much older, much smaller, and very dark. That said, they are walkable to work if you work in Arnona.
2. How would you describe the availability and cost of groceries and household supplies relative to your home country?
Similar in price to NY, but produce is more seasonal; you can't really decide what you want to make so much as go to the store and see what looks best. Household supplies are available, but American brands are more expensive. We are not fond of the local brands, so we order our supplies from Amazon.
3. What household or grocery items do you wish you had shipped to post?
We do Amazon orders of paper towels, cleaning supplies, and some cosmetics. We also order diapers because they're cheaper at home, but there is no need to crazy stock up on stuff, except cat litter. If you have a cat, I would bring ALL the cat litter in your HHE. The cat litter here doesn't clump, doesn't contain smells, is super expensive, and Amazon doesn't always let you order litter. Same with pet food in general, American food is very expensive, so brining your own if you're picky, or order it.
4. What typical restaurants, food delivery services, and/or takeout options are popular among expatriates?
Lots of restaurants, most are Middle Eastern. Though there are many slightly upscale restaurants that sound different by description, they all have basically the same menu: a fish dish, a steak, a burger, a pasta with olive oil and artichokes or some other seasonal vegetable. It's good, but we find that it gets boring. Eating out is kind of expensive (the same or more than NY prices), so it doesn't seem worth it for that type of food. Most restaurants close Friday night to Saturday. No food delivery, but take out is possible for ok pizza and some "fast food" type things, like Thai noodles. The Thai noodles do not taste Thai to us, but are good. No Chinese, no Indian, and no Mexican; there's not a lot of spicy food here. You have to go to Tel Aviv for all of those things.
5. Are there any unusual problems with insects or other infestations in housing?
None at all. A few mosquitos and flies, that's it.
Daily Life:
1. How do you send and receive your letters and package mail? Are local postal facilities adequate?
DPO, but it takes a surprisingly long time, up to 6 weeks.
2. What is the availability and cost of household help, and what types of help are typically employed by expatriates?
No one has full time cleaning people or other help (other than nannies). A cleaning person once a week costs 50 shekels an hour for about four hours. It is very hard to find a full time nanny; some people brought their former nannies as live-ins. Even babysitters are hard to find, and the going rate is 40-50 shekels an hour, plus money for transportation. It makes it kind of hard because the work week is not the same as hours, so you have to scramble to find after school care, especially on Friday afternoons.
3. What kinds of gyms or other sports/workout facilities are available? Are they expensive?
There are gyms, but they are expensive. YMCA has a nice one with a pool and exercise classes, it's about $100 a month.
4. Are credit cards widely accepted and safe to use locally? Are ATMs common and do you recommend using them? Are they safe to use?
Yes for credit cards, we use them all the time. ATMs are safe, but there aren't a ton of ATMs.
5. What English-language religious services are available locally?
Everything monotheistic, it's Jerusalem. I don't know about non-monotheistic religions, but I wouldn't be surprised if there were services for those as well.
6. How much of the local language do you need for daily living? Are local language classes/tutors available and affordable?
None. I speak neither Hebrew nor Arabic, and it's not a problem. English is the default language for Hebrew and Arabic speakers to speak to each other. I learned a few small pleasantries in both, and it's appreciated, but not necessary. Post pays for language classes in both, including tutors, casual speaking classes, and more intensive courses.
7. Would someone with physical disabilities have difficulties living in this city?
Yes, it would be limiting, but not impossible. It's a hilly place and there are places you can't drive to, particularly in the old city. There are a lot of steps and cobblestone streets and crowds, especially in the old city. Sidewalks in East Jerusalem are bad, and there are frequently trees or posts or trash blocking them. A lot of restaurants have a couple of steps to access them. Buildings have elevators, there is handicapped parking in most places, sidewalks in West Jerusalem are decent and have curb cutouts. I think people will be helpful to you if you need it; they have a reputation for brusqueness (well deserved), but people do help with my stroller, and I had a guest with a wheelchair who was able to get around fairly well.
Transportation:
1. Are local buses, trams, trains or taxis safe and affordable?
We aren't allowed to take the buses. We can take the tram, but there is only a single line. It's convenient for getting from housing in East Jerusalem to the center of town. Taxis are safe and cost about $10-20 to get to most places in the city. It's pretty necessary to have a car or two here though, and you'll want to get out of the city.
2. What kind of car do you recommend bringing to post, given the terrain, availability of parts, burglary/carjacking risks, etc.? What kind of car do you advise not to bring?
Any car is fine, but you will get in accidents. There is not a single un-banged up car in the garage. A small car is easier to park in the city. People here are pretty aggressive drivers. No burglary or carjacking risks.
Phone & Internet:
1. Is high-speed home Internet access available? How long does it typically take to install it after arrival?
Yes, our sponsor got it set up before we got here.
2. Do you have any recommendations regarding mobile phones? Did you keep your home-country plan or use a local provider?
Golan has a great plan for 99 shekels a month. You get unlimited calls and data, including unlimited calls to the US, and a US phone number that forwards to your cell. It also includes limited overseas coverage when you travel.
Pets:
1. Are qualified veterinarians and/or good kennel services available? Do animals need to be quarantined upon entry to the country? Are there other considerations regarding pets that are particular to this country?
Yes, vet services are very good and not too expensive (less than US). No quarantine, just paperwork before you get in. We brought a dog and a cat. It's hard to find green space for your dog in East Jerusalem, and people can be a little afraid, but many people are also curious. None of the housing here has yards.
Employment & Volunteer Opportunities:
1. What types of jobs do most expatriate spouses/partners have? Locally based or telecommuting? Full-time or part-time? Can you comment on local salary scales?
Telecommuting or at post. I don't know anyone working on the local economy, though lots of people work for NGOs and are posted here. Telecommuting is very easy her, as phones and internet work perfectly.
2. What volunteer opportunities are available locally?
I'm sure there are a lot, but they require initiative to find. Everything is very political, so it is more difficult to ensure that you are volunteering in a capacity that isn't read as political.
3. What is the typical dress code at work and in public places? Is formal dress ever required?
Very casual. At work, the casual end of business casual. In public jeans, sneakers, tees are all acceptable everywhere. Jerusalem is a very religious place. Orthodox Jewish women cover knees, elbows, collarbones, and never wear pants. Muslim women frequently cover their heads and are about evenly split between wearing long dresses and tunics with tight pants. As someone who looks Jewish living in East Jerusalem, I prefer to wear pants to differentiate myself from settlers. You don't have to dress particularly modestly, but super short shorts or mini skirts and spaghetti straps are definitely out of the ordinary for local sensibilities. Shorts for men are also unusual for locals in Jerusalem. That being said, tourists wear anything, and there are lots of tourists.
Health & Safety:
1. Are there personal security concerns to be aware of at this post? Please describe.
Terrorism (mostly stabbings, some car ramming, and at this point, very rare bombs) are the security threats we think about here. While it always feels on the brink of war, I experience this mostly as abstract tension and anxiety. You stay more vigilant here about the security situation and political feeling, but it does not feel personally threatening to me. I follow the security warnings. Otherwise, there is no petty crime. I do not worry about burglary, robbery, rape, assault. I feel fairly safe here walking around at night alone. You get used to the intense police state, with its cameras and guns everywhere.
2. Are there any particular health concerns? What is the quality of available medical care? What medical conditions typically require medical evacuation?
No diseases or air quality problems. Medical care is very good, and some people stay to give birth here. You could get pretty much any treatment here, though medical culture might be different enough for you not to want to for something really serious.
3. What is the air quality like at post (good/moderate/bad)? Are there seasonal air quality issues? Does the air quality have an impact on health?
Good. It's dry and dusty for a lot of the year, but otherwise air quality is excellent.
4. What do people who suffer from environmental or food allergies need to know?
Those with peanut allergies might need to be careful, especially at school. No one here has peanut allergies, so it's not common to ban them at schools like in the US.
5. Are there any particular mental health issues that tend to crop up at post, such as Seasonal Affective Disorder (winter blues)?
No, the weather is beautiful. The security environment and the amount of hatred on both sides might cause some anxiety and stress, but it is what you would expect and expats are not that personally involved.
6. What is the overall climate: is it extremely hot or cold, wet or dry, at any time of year, for example?
It's very dry; even when it rains, it's only every few days for a few hours. It doesn't rain for months at a time. It's pretty hot in the summer, but not that dissimilar from the East Coast, and it's a much drier heat.
Schools & Children:
1. Are preschools available? Day care? Are these expensive? What has been your experience with them, if any? Do the schools provide before- and/or after-school care?
Yes. Many go to the YMCA, it's about $800 a month and it's in Hebrew and Arabic. Teachers are very warm and loving, and they feed them good food at the school for breakfast and lunch. They have activities like music, and swimming lessons for older kids. You have to register by January for the September start date, and they fill up. The only issue is the schedule: school normally ends at 4 p.m., and then at 12:30 p.m. on Fridays, so you need after school care, and it's hard to come by and expensive.
Expat Life:
1. What is the relative size of the expatriate community? How would you describe overall morale among expatriates?
Big, lots of diplomats and NGOs. Morale is good, this is a pleasant place to live with meaningful and exciting work.
2. What are some typical ways to socialize, either with local people or with other expatriates? Are there groups or clubs that you can recommend?
There is lots of touring to do. There are bars, restaurants, and a few small clubs for dancing or karaoke. There's also the usual home activities like book clubs and game nights. I have done a lot more socializing with expats than locals.
3. Is this a good city for single people? For couples? For families? Why or why not?
Good for all. For singles though a lot of dating social life is more centered in Tel Aviv because it's much less religious, especially if you're dating locals as opposed to expats. For couples and families, it's great. Israel is a tiny country, so it's very easy to take day trips to Tel Aviv, the beach, the Dead Sea, and lots of archaeological and natural national parks.
4. Is this a good city for LGBT expatriates? Why or why not?
Yes. The dating scene is not well developed in Jerusalem, but it is in Tel Aviv, which is less than an hour away. While this is a religious place, it's safe to be out here, and I don't think same sex physical affection will get any different reaction from heterosexual (which is to say, PDAs are not common here- the religious folks don't touch in public).
5. Are there problems with ethnic, race/racial minorities or religious prejudices? Gender equality?
Yes. I was surprised at just how much vehement hatred there is on both the Palestinian and the Israeli sides, and about how public people are willing to be with those prejudices. It can be very uncomfortable to hear, but as a Jewish American, I do not feel like people on either side see me as part of that conflict. The hatred on the Arab side does not feel aimed at non-Israeli Jews at all. I do think there is some anti-Semitism in the expat community, due to the political situation, and that can feel a little harder to deal with. Gender does not feel like as much of an issue, nor does racial prejudice, at least for expats.
6. What have been the highlights of your time in this country? Best trips or experiences?
The city is full of history, and it is palpably spiritual. One should have memberships to the zoo and the Israel Museum. Tel Aviv and its beaches for relaxation, the Dead Sea, national parks, and too many day trips to mention. You won't run out of things to do here if you like history, museums, ruins, and nature, as any guidebook will show you.
7. What are some interesting/fun things to do in the area? Can you recommend any “hidden gems"?
There are lots, just work your way through a guidebook.
8. Is this a "shopping post"? Are there interesting handicrafts, artwork, antiques, or other items that people typically buy there?
Not really. Armenian pottery/tiles. Olive wood stuff. Hebron glass.
9. What are the particular advantages of living in this city?
It's a very easy place to live in terms of conveniences and things to do.
Words of Wisdom:
1. What do you wish you had known about this particular city/country before moving there?
The antipathy here is not subtle. People you have just met will tell you how glad they are that no Arabs/ Jews live where they live and how much they don't like each other.
2. Knowing what you know now, would you still move to this city?
Yes.
3. If you move here, you can leave behind your:
Heavy coat, sense that peaceful coexistence is easily achievable.
4. But don't forget your:
Bathing suit, sunscreen, Bible, and history books.
5. Do you recommend any books or movies about this city/country for those who are interested in learning more?
Jerusalem (comic book by Guy Delisle) about living here as an expat.
