Jerusalem, Israel Report of what it's like to live there - 09/29/24
Personal Experiences from Jerusalem, Israel
Background:
1. Was this post your first expatriate experience? If not, what other cities have you lived in as an expat?
We have also lived in La Paz, Bolivia and Mbabane, Eswatini.
2. What is your home city/country? How long is the trip to post from there, with what connections? How easy/difficult is it to travel to this city/country?
Home for us is Miami, FL (USA). Trip takes roughly 11 hours from Miami to Tel Aviv nonstop. Connections exist through many cities such as Atlanta, New York, London, and Paris. It's a 45 min drive from Tel Aviv Airport to Jerusalem if the traffic is light to moderate.
3. What years did you live here?
2023-2026.
4. How long have you lived here?
1.5 years.
5. What brought you to this city (e.g. diplomatic mission, business, NGO, military, teaching, retirement, etc.)?
Diplomatic mission.
Housing, Groceries & Food:
1. What is your housing like? What are typical housing sizes, locations, and commute times for expatriates?
We live in west Jerusalem (Ramat Denya area) in a duplex. Our house is in good condition. We had problems with mold and termites on arrival but it was dealt with swiftly and thoroughly. Our house is relatively large compared to others. We have 4 floors which include: an attic loft; 3 bedrooms and two baths on a the floor below (with two balconies on either side of the house); the ground level floor below has the living/dining/kitchen area with a separate area that we use as a study, plus a wrap around porch; and the lowest floor is our basement which is partly above ground (has windows) and has our washer and dryer and our safe room/bunker.
Other homes we have visited from the embassy housing pool include large apartment units with glossy stone floors within walking distance of the embassy building, or brightly lit multi-level apartments located walking between flower shops and small grocery stores in the Bohemian Rehavia neighborhood. Commute times are really affected by many factors including whether you walk or drive, and whether the office is in Arnona or Agron. Commute times can be as short as an 8-minute walk, or a ten-minute drive, or it could take as long as 45 minutes by car or public transportation on heavy traffic days if, as we do, one has to cross town. Of all the embassy community, we live farthest from the embassy.
2. How would you describe the availability and cost of groceries and household supplies relative to your home country?
Groceries are expensive (but it seems things are that way back home these days as well). Some personal care items (Neosporin, steroid creams/Cortizone) are considered behind-the-counter prescription medications. Some American snack foods are hard to find (though they have their own lines of Doritos flavors, which makes for fun souvenirs).
Produce is seasonal and mostly local, meaning one can only get fresh strawberries in spring, grapes in fall... but everything tastes better on account of it. Some veggies are really hard to find any time of year including brussel sprouts, plantains, and asparagus. Good looking broccoli is also a rarity. Pork and bacon can be purchased in the Russian delis.
3. What household or grocery items do you wish you had shipped to post?
None; it is easy to ship things here from Vitacost, Amazon, etc.
4. What typical restaurants, food delivery services, and/or takeout options are popular among expatriates?
Wolt food delivery has access to a great number and variety of restaurants. There are lots of restaurants here including Armenian, Ethiopian, Italian-inspired, lots of burger places.
5. Are there any unusual problems with insects or other infestations in housing?
Some people have had issues with ants and we have had termites. Neither are a problem for us at present. There can be mosquitos.
Daily Life:
1. How do you send and receive your letters and package mail? Are local postal facilities adequate?
DPO and personal pouch for some vendors, like Costco.
2. What is the availability and cost of household help, and what types of help are typically employed by expatriates?
We do not avail ourselves of these services, but they do exist.
3. What kinds of gyms or other sports/workout facilities are available? Are they expensive?
Our family takes Krav Maga lessons at the Anglican School (even though we are not enrolled there as students.) They allow us to use their gym. There is a YMCA closer to the Old City and neighborhood community centers (Ramat Rachel) that sometimes have swimming pools.
4. Do you feel that it is safe to walk, run or hike outside? Are there areas where bike riding is possible? What is the availability and safety of outdoor space for exercising? Are these easily accessible?
I have never felt safer in another city. Children walk around everywhere here unsupervised. They use public transportation as young as 5, 6 years old to get to and from school. Our own children will take public transportation independently (our youngest is 12) to go to the Old City or to youth activities. Biking is possible at parks and on bike paths along sidewalks. We didn't bring bikes so I don't have experience with this but there are many bike stores around town and many people ride here. There are many playgrounds and exercise spaces.
5. Are credit cards widely accepted and safe to use locally? Are ATMs common and do you recommend using them? Are they safe to use?
Yes.
6. What English-language religious services are available locally?
I can only speak to Christian services of which there are many including Catholic, Baptist, and Non-denominational (King of Kings, Jerusalem Assembly, etc.).
7. How much of the local language do you need for daily living? Are local language classes/tutors available and affordable?
Hebrew language classes are in abundance though I haven't taken any. Most people understand some English. If you can't communicate with someone, most likely the person next to you or behind you will jump in and help. It's helpful to know the niceties of course, toda (thank you), shalom (hello/goodbye), bevakasha (please). HOWEVER. It's sometimes impossible to tell the difference between an Arab person and a Jewish person and sensitivities here can run high--you might insult an Arab person by thanking them in Hebrew. Unless you are certain of a person's language, the safest course is to speak English. I learned this the hard way.
8. Would someone with physical disabilities have difficulties living in this city?
Yes.
Transportation:
1. Are local buses, trams, trains or taxis safe and affordable?
For 6 shekels (roughly $3 in 2024) you can use the buses and trains for an hour and half. My children and I traverse the city multiple times a week on public transportation. It is safe and efficient. The downside is that it doesn't run on Shabbat... and Shabbat starts on Friday afternoon. You can reach Tel Aviv and the port of Haifa by train which is accessible by bus and by light rail.
2. What kind of vehicle(s) including electric ones do you recommend bringing to post, given the terrain, infrastructure, availability of parts, burglary/carjacking risks, etc.? What kind of car or vehicles do you advise not to bring?
People bring all kinds of vehicles (or purchase ones from out-going diplomats). Your vehicle will most likely suffer bumps, scrapes, side-swipes, fender-benders - from other cars, buses, scooters, taxis, etc. Parallel parking is ubiquitous. Flat terrain is not. Crime exists but is uncommon. Vehicle repairs can be very costly (unless you're willing to find someone in East Jerusalem or Bethlehem to service your vehicle), and parts can be hard to come by.
Phone & Internet:
1. Is high-speed home Internet access available? How long does it typically take to install it after arrival?
Normal speed internet, yes. You can ask someone at post to help get it set up at your residence before you arrive. They will need your passport and credit card info.
2. Do you have any recommendations regarding mobile phones? Did you keep your home-country plan or use a local provider?
We use Google Fi, and it is not always reliable here in Israel - but when travel regionally it works great.
Health & Safety:
1. Are there personal security concerns to be aware of at this post? Please describe.
Driving can be very stressful here. Avoid crowds of angry people. Common sense.
2. Are there any particular health concerns? What is the quality of available medical care? What medical conditions typically require medical evacuation?
We have had to use the Urgent Care a couple times for minor (but important) situations. We were able to get the help we needed. My daughter was able to get orthodontic treatment (Invisalign) at the orthodonist in Tel Aviv- prices comparable to US. You don't always see the same sanitation standards as in the US and definitely no delicacy with privacy of information but we were well taken care of any time we have needed to get medical care.
3. What do people who suffer from environmental or food allergies need to know?
It is not as easy to be gluten-free here as in the U.S. Most restaurants do not have a "GF" option, but may be able to accommodate as requested. Grocery stores carry GF items, some more than others.
4. Are there any particular mental health issues that tend to crop up at post, such as Seasonal Affective Disorder (winter blues)?
We arrived in June before the October 7 massacres and the subsequent rocket barrages and drone/missile attacks that have since become a part of normal life (we are at the one-year mark and it continues). My neighbor was very relaxed about the rocket sirens and it was a big help to me to take my cues from her. I noticed that the people of Jerusalem mostly take the threats in stride and life continues defiantly. Another embassy family that lived nearby couldn't handle the stress and they left post early.
It was a great comfort to me to silence the phone alarms that would sound constantly indicating barrages anywhere in the country. Now we simply run to our safe-room when the local neighborhood sirens are sounded (once every few months at present). In Jerusalem we have received far fewer attacks and threats than Tel-Aviv. We are told that while the Iron Dome continues to be effective, families will be permitted to stay. In spite of being at war, we do feel safe where we are. It's easier for some people than others, and also easier at some times than at other times. I'm not always brave. For those who work more intimately with the local population there is is the added difficulty of mourning those who have died (everyone knows someone), of being burdened for those on the front lines, of relationships severed over political positions, of being confronted with racism in both directions...
5. What is the overall climate: is it extremely hot or cold, wet or dry, at any time of year, for example?
The summers can get quite hot. I strongly discourage going to the Dead Sea in August. It can snow in Jerusalem though we didn't see any snow last year. There is a rainy season that begins in October and goes through March. It doesn't rain at all the rest of the year.
Schools & Children:
1. What is the availability of international schools? What has been your general experience with them, if any?
Mae Boyar Highschool has an IB program that allowed my homeschool kids to take a la carte classes (IB Physics, IB Chemistry, Theory of Knowledge). That was a really great experience for them.
The Anglican school is the other IB school in Jerusalem that is used by American families (AISJ). The school has many UN and Palestinian families that attend and the political climate within the school reflects that reality.
The State Department-sponsored school is Jerusalem American International School (JAIS), but they currently only have up through grade 9 students. They are under the umbrella of Walworth Barbour American International School, which has its main campus north of Tel Aviv in Even Yehuda. They have a boarding school option for Jerusalem-based families who choose to enroll their children in their school.
The Jerusalem French School, or Lycée Français de Jérusalem, is a French international school in which embassy families sometimes enroll their children.
2. Are local sports classes and/or activities available for kids?
Local sports and activites (chuggim) are available for kids through their schools. As homeschoolers we have found opportunities at the Magnificat music school in the Terra Sancta property at the New Gate of the Old City, we take Krav Maga classes with a private trainer at the AISJ property, and the kids are involved in their church youth group which has given them opportunities to do service work, agricultural experience, hikes, and camping.
Expat Life:
1. What is the relative size of the expatriate community? How would you describe overall morale among expatriates?
Huge. Very good morale, outside of embassy community. Many people in the embassy community seem to prefer the more laid-back atmosphere of Tel-Aviv. Those who value traditional norms will feel at home in the conservative environment of Jerusalem.
2. Is it easy to make friends with locals here? Are there any prejudices or any ethnic groups who might feel uncomfortable here?
Israelis can seem generally abrasive at first, but they don't mean to offend, they're just brutally, unapologetically honest. If you throw your rules of political correctness out of the window, you will feel liberated and fall into step. I find it easy to make friends here, though most of my friends are expats. If you are anti-Semitic you will feel uncomfortable here.
The most unhappy people I have met at the embassy are those who are openly hostile to Jewish people and Jewish culture. (I've not met any openly anti-Arab people among the embassy community, thankfully.) LGBT community might feel less free here than in Tel Aviv.
3. Are there problems with ethnic, race/racial minorities or religious prejudices? Gender equality?
Yes. There is racial conflict here between Jews and Arabs, and also religious conflict between Christian Arabs and Muslims. Tensions have become particularly high during the war. If you are of a darker complexion, you will experience more scrutiny by local security personnel. Radical Jewish nationalists can be downright nasty- spitting on those who are not Jewish, etc. They represent a small minority of the population but they are there.
4. What have been the highlights of your time in this country? Best trips or experiences?
Celebrating the Feast of Tabernacles with local families, hiking to Eilat/Red Sea, seeing families cherish and respect one another.
5. What are some interesting/fun things to do in the area? Can you recommend any “hidden gems"?
Take a cruise of the Greek Isles from Haifa, Cyprus beaches, the Dead Sea resorts on the Jordanian side, participate in an archaeological dig, dinner at the Notre Dame rooftop Restaurant, the Israel Museum, getting lost in the Old City. There are also innumerable hiking trails, national parks, camping in the Negev, snorkeling in the Red Sea.
6. Is this a "shopping post"? Are there interesting handicrafts, artwork, antiques, or other items that people typically buy there?
Armenian ceramics, Phoenician glass, olive wood, Middle Eastern antiques of all kinds from all over the region, Bedouin rugs, conservative clothes for girls/women
7. What are the particular advantages of living in this city?
There are people who wait their whole lives to visit this city- sacred to three significant faith traditions. I hope to never take it for granted that I live here. Also, the hummus is amazing.
Words of Wisdom:
1. What do you wish you had known about this particular city/country before moving there?
Living in a place that is so strongly grounded in the idea of Shabbat means that you too must slow down and conform to this mandated time of rest. As an American, being forced to rest is really hard but also really healing. You have to buy your food ahead of time because stores wont be available; if you are using public transportation, you have to plan to get to your final destination before 4 pm. Once it starts the streets are quiet, and you know that in all these homes families are gathered to eat together and ask for God's blessings as the sun goes down and it's such a beautiful feeling. Assuming you're not stranded somewhere and hungry.
2. Knowing what you know now, would you still move to this city?
1000 x yes.
3. If you move here, you can leave behind your:
Political correctness and social anxieties.
4. But don't forget your:
hat.
5. Do you recommend any books or movies about this city/country for those who are interested in learning more?
I read "Israel: A Simple Guide to the Most Misunderstood Country on Earth" (by Noa Tishby) prior to arrival- this was a life-saver once war broke out, to have had context for what was going on. I'm currently reading Daniel Gordis' "Israel: A Concise History of a Nation Reborn"... so far, so good.
