Sapporo, Japan Report of what it's like to live there - 09/01/11
Personal Experiences from Sapporo, Japan
Background:
1. Was this post your first expatriate experience? If not, what other cities have you lived in as an expat?
Have also lived in Stockholm and Surabaya.
2. What is your home city/country? How long is the trip to post from there, with what connections? How easy/difficult is it to travel to this city/country?
Home base is Utah. Must go through Tokyo and then a West Coast gateway, usually San Francisco or Portland. Seasonal direct flights to Salt Lake. Direct flights from Tokyo to Washington exist.
3. How long have you lived here?
Two years as of August 2011.
4. What brought you to this city (e.g. diplomatic mission, business, NGO, military, teaching, retirement, etc.)?
U.S. Government.
Housing, Groceries & Food:
1. What is your housing like? What are typical housing sizes, locations, and commute times for expatriates?
Consulate housing (other than Consul General's residence) are detached houses in upscale neighborhood in foothills. Nice view of the city. Not particularly convenient to public transportation. Walk to the consulate nearly 30 minutes. By bicycle, 8 minutes. Coming back home nearly 20 minutes. It's a really big hill.
2. How would you describe the availability and cost of groceries and household supplies relative to your home country?
Wide availability, high cost. Groceries are probably double what you pay in the U.S. Mexican spices and ingredients are hard to come by. U.S. brands are not common, so if you are partial to certain brands or types of toiletries or medicines you should bring them.
3. What household or grocery items do you wish you had shipped to post?
Socks if you are size 10 or larger, graham crackers, taco seasoning, deodorant, after-shave, brown sugar.
4. What typical restaurants, food delivery services, and/or takeout options are popular among expatriates?
No Mexican!! McDonald's and KFC are everywhere. A couple of Subways. A handful of outstanding local burger places. Hokkaido is renowned nationwide for its cuisine. The best ramen in all of Japan. Lots of vegetables and fresh fruits, especially melons. An abundance of sea food, particularly crabs and scallops, with all sorts of excellent sushi. Some of the best dairy products anywhere. Hokkaido ice cream is awesome. Everything is expensive. Outrageously expensive. KFC for one person can run over $20. A good bowl of simple ramen approaches or exceeds $10. Big Mac meal over $9. No such thing as a $5 lunch, even getting a lunch to go at the convenience store.
5. What kinds of organic, vegetarian and allergy-friendly foods are available, such as organic produce, gluten-free products, meat substitutes for vegetarians, etc?
Organic foods are available. Specialty stores exist. Don't know about allergy-friendly foods. Vegetarians are not unheard of here, so those ingredients can be had and most restaurants have meat-free options. I work and travel with a vegetarian who does not starve.
6. Are there any unusual problems with insects or other infestations in housing?
Not serious, but bugs do come out when it gets warm. Short mosquito season. Some big Japanese hornets. No bugs whatsoever for half the year or more.
Daily Life:
1. How do you send and receive your letters and package mail? Are local postal facilities adequate?
Consulate has APO. Otherwise it's FedEx or regular post office.
2. What is the availability and cost of household help, and what types of help are typically employed by expatriates?
Don't know about the nanny issue, but I don't think it's terribly difficult. People here, even upper class, don't typically have domestic help. I reckon it would cost you in the neighborhood of $100 a day. I'm not kidding.
3. What kinds of gyms or other sports/workout facilities are available? Are they expensive?
Yes, but not as common as in the U.S. Probably expensive.
4. Are credit cards widely accepted and safe to use locally? Are ATMs common and do you recommend using them? Are they safe to use?
Credit cards accepted in most places. ATM machines at 7-11s and post offices accept my U.S. debit card.
5. What English-language religious services are available locally?
Yes, some non-denominational Christian services available.
6. English-language newspapers and TV available? Cost?
Japan Times available for subscription, a little over $2 per issue newsstand price. You will not find it or any other English papers widely available at news stands, however. CNN, Cartoon Network, Disney, MTV on basic cable. The American ESPN is not!!
7. How much of the local language do you need for daily living? Are local language classes/tutors available and affordable?
People you run into typically will not be conversant in English. You can check out at the grocery store without speaking Japanese, but any other transactions or conversations will be almost impossible with knowing Japanese. It can be tricky in a taxi. Best to have destination written down in Japanese.
8. Would someone with physical disabilities have difficulties living in this city?
The winter is a challenge for regularly-abled people. Almost everyone slips and falls at least once during the season, yours truly included. For someone with a wheelchair or who has difficulty walking, navigating the winter landscape is likely difficult and treacherous. No other particular issues, I don't think. Buses may not be easy for wheelchairs, but subways make accommodations.
Transportation:
1. Are local buses, trams, trains or taxis safe and affordable?
Local trains, buses, and taxis are extremely safe. They are not affordable, particularly taxis. For my 25 or so minute walk home, if I were to take a taxi it would likely cost nearly $15. To get from my house to the train station, which I can bike in less than 30 minutes, it costs nearly $30. Buses from one stop to the next are about $2, but don't go up a lot from there. You cannot transfer, though, so if you have to take a couple of buses you're paying every time. The shortest ride on the subway is about $2.75. Longer trips across town will set you back about $5 one-way.
2. What kind of car do you recommend bringing to post, given the terrain, availability of parts, burglary/carjacking risks, etc.? What kind of car do you advise not to bring?
You don't want a left-hand drive car. Used cars are one of the few things here that are relatively cheap. There is a strong belief that cars without 4wd cannot be driven in Sapporo, so virtually every car you find here, new or used, is 4wd. Certainly not a bad idea in winter, but people manage in Wyoming and Colorado with front wheel drive and snow tires, so I'm sure it could be done here as well.
Phone & Internet:
1. Is high-speed home Internet access available? How long does it typically take to install it after arrival?
Yes, high speed internet. Packaged with phone it's over $100 per month.
2. Do you have any recommendations regarding mobile phones? Did you keep your home-country plan or use a local provider?
Everyone here has a cell phone. Most plans are pay by call or service. One of the most connected places on the planet.
Pets:
1. Are qualified veterinarians and/or good kennel services available? Do animals need to be quarantined upon entry to the country? Are there other considerations regarding pets that are particular to this country?
Yes, for a long period of time at horrific expense if you don't do all the advance tests and registrations. Information is available on the U.S. Embassy website. LOOK AT IT!! You don't want to have to pay for your pet to stay in quarantine for 180 days. This can be avoided, but you may need to start well ahead of your move. Probably strictest pet import procedures in the world. We did it for two cats, though, so it can be done.
2. Quality pet care available (vets & kennels)?
There is a nice-looking kennel a stone's throw from the consulate. Japanese people love their pets. Especially dogs, although cats are also pampered. Many vets in every neighborhood. Don't know about cost, but I wouldn't guess cheap.
Employment & Volunteer Opportunities:
1. What types of jobs do most expatriate spouses/partners have? Locally based or telecommuting? Full-time or part-time? Can you comment on local salary scales?
Don't think so. One can always try teaching English, but without Japanese language skills there wouldn't be much else available. And even then, hiring a foreigner would not be the first choice of most enterprises.
2. What is the typical dress code at work and in public places? Is formal dress ever required?
Rather formal, but Sapporo, as the rest of Japan, takes "cool biz" in the summer very seriously. No jacket or tie required June-August. Once the weather cools, however, it's suits for men and the equivalent for women. Some people wear a suit to commute even if they have a uniform or some other clothes at work.
Health & Safety:
1. Are there personal security concerns to be aware of at this post? Please describe.
No. Never felt safer anywhere in the world. Any part of the city, any time of the day or night, no concerns.
2. Are there any particular health concerns? What is the quality of available medical care? What medical conditions typically require medical evacuation?
No particular health concerns (frost bite or hypothermia if you stay our too long in the winter?). Medical care seems to be good, but don't have a lot of first-hand experience.
3. What is the air quality like at post (good/moderate/bad)? Are there seasonal air quality issues? Does the air quality have an impact on health?
Air quality is excellent by any standards. For a big city it is spectacular.
4. What is the overall climate: is it extremely hot or cold, wet or dry, at any time of year, for example?
Four seasons, with spring being the worst. If you are only coming for a visit, don't come March - May! Winters are extremely wintery, with incredible amounts of snow. Buffalo averages just under 8 feet of snow per year. Sapporo averages over 16 feet, more than twice as much. It truly is unbelievable. Cold, of course, but not to extremes. Most winter days have highs in the 20's, rarely does it get below zero Fahrenheit. Tons of winter activities available. Downhill skiing, cross-country skiing, ice skating, professional hockey, organized snowball fights (like a sport).
In spring the snow starts to get yucky, but the incredible accumulations means it stays around for months, melting in the afternoon, freezing again at night, and being extremely treacherous in the morning. On TV one sees beautiful cherry blossoms all over the rest of Japan, but in Sapporo it is still muddy and cold with no leaves on the trees. Cherries don't bloom until well into May most years and even then it can still be chilly. Eventually, however, the snow melts and the mud dries and gives way to a glorious summer.
June highs are usually in the 70s, July and August in the 80s, with maybe 10-15 days pushing or slightly exceeding 90 degrees. It never approaches 100 in Sapporo. Fall is underrated and beautiful. Lots of trees changing colors and crisp, but no cold weather until November. First snow almost always happens sometime in November, but melts. By Christmas the snow is here to stay. Non-white Christmases in Sapporo are unheard of.
Schools & Children:
1. What is the availability of international schools? What has been your general experience with them, if any?
Hokkaido International School is located on its own campus in Sapporo. About 220 students K-12. Normal range of activities for a school this size, academics slightly above average. Overall good experience. Meets expectations.
2. What accommodations do schools make for special-needs kids?
Unsure, but I know there are some programs. Public schools in Japan go to great lengths to accomodate special needs. I've seen one teacher assigned to one student for the entire day to help them in the classroom.
3. Are preschools available? Day care? Are these expensive? What has been your experience with them, if any? Do the schools provide before- and/or after-school care?
No personal experience, but probably expensive and difficult to find. Japan not known as a daycare haven.
4. Are local sports classes and/or activities available for kids?
Yes. Our daughters participate in gymnastics. Baseball, soccer, and hockey widely available. Also Japanese sports such as judo and kendo. Volleyball is big.
Expat Life:
1. What is the relative size of the expatriate community? How would you describe overall morale among expatriates?
Not large, but probably a few dozen Americans, maybe a couple hundred non-Asian expats?
2. Morale among expats:
Seems to be good. Most people that are here want to be here.
3. What are some typical ways to socialize, either with local people or with other expatriates? Are there groups or clubs that you can recommend?
Having people over doesn't seem to be so big here. Lots of hanging out in restaurants, cafes and bars. Some places open until very late at night/early morning. People will be out all night downtown, especially in the summer.
4. Is this a good city for single people? For couples? For families? Why or why not?
Great for families, should be fine for couples, probably not bad for singles, but don't expect the expat communities and night life you might have in Tokyo. Sapporo does have a fairly well-known bar/restaurant district, though: the largest north of Tokyo.
5. Is this a good city for LGBT expatriates? Why or why not?
Should be fine, I would imagine. Generally not a big deal in Japan. Don't see as many public gay figures outside of entertainment as one sees in the U.S., but I'm not aware of particular persecutions, either.
6. Are there problems with ethnic, race/racial minorities or religious prejudices? Gender equality?
Interesting question in Japan context. If never being accepted as a Japanese doesn't bother you, there are no serious racial prejudices. Acknowledging my own biases, I would say Japanese fundamentally view outsiders as different, but not necessarily inferior. Not a very religious society, but religion is certainly tolerated and may be practiced freely. Strong traditional gender roles persist, but there are many more women with careers than there were 15 years ago. Many receptions for business or politics, though, will still be more than 75% male, sometimes up to 90%. You will always be served tea by a female during office calls.
7. What have been the highlights of your time in this country? Best trips or experiences?
Sapporo has a world-renowned Snow Festival every year that draws millions of visitors. Summer road trips, by automobile or motorcycle, which can include dips in pristine lakes, are among the best you could experience anywhere.
8. What are some interesting/fun things to do in the area? Can you recommend any “hidden gems"?
The annual Snow Festival in February, Winter Olympic sites including ski jump that still hosts international tournaments, world-class symphony hall and orchestra, skiing, fishing, zoo, national parks.
9. Is this a "shopping post"? Are there interesting handicrafts, artwork, antiques, or other items that people typically buy there?
Not a huge local arts or crafts scene, but you can get nice things if you want to spend a lot. Some Ainu arts/crafts are available. Glass works in Otaru, not far from Sapporo.
10. What are the particular advantages of living in this city?
Special advantages of Sapporo are mild summers, spacious atmosphere (not crowded like other large Japanese cities), lots of green areas, and close to fabulous national parks and wilderness.
11. Can you save money?
Ha ha ha ha ha ha ha!! I suppose if you never go anywhere or do anything.
Words of Wisdom:
1. Knowing what you know now, would you still move to this city?
Yes, I like it. Cost of living is only drawback, and if you really hate cold, snowy weather winter will be tough.
2. If you move here, you can leave behind your:
Soy sauce.
3. But don't forget your:
Anything you don't want to pay twice as much for here.
4. Do you recommend any books or movies about this city/country for those who are interested in learning more?
5. Recommended movies/DVDs related to this city:
6. Do you have any other comments?
Sapporo is considered one of the most liveable places in Japan. People from other parts of Japan will want to come and visit you here, especially if you have space to crash during the snow festival, when everything is booked and double the normal price.
