Doha, Qatar Report of what it's like to live there - 01/13/12
Personal Experiences from Doha, Qatar
Background:
1. Was this post your first expatriate experience? If not, what other cities have you lived in as an expat?
No, this is my third. I previously lived in Mons, Belgium and Paris, France.
2. What is your home city/country? How long is the trip to post from there, with what connections? How easy/difficult is it to travel to this city/country?
Home base is Maryland. Currently there is a very comfortable (albeit long) direct flight from Doha to DC-- about 13 hours.
3. How long have you lived here?
Six months
4. What brought you to this city (e.g. diplomatic mission, business, NGO, military, teaching, retirement, etc.)?
Spouse of a U.S. Foreign Service Officer
Housing, Groceries & Food:
1. What is your housing like? What are typical housing sizes, locations, and commute times for expatriates?
Expats tend to live in gated compounds that are quite swanky, decked out with sparkling pools, gyms, club houses, playgrounds, restaurants, mini marts, etc. Houses are modern and bright. Ours has a lovely garden and patio which our garden maintains for about $40 USD a month. Commute times very. It takes my husband about twenty minutes to get to work.
2. How would you describe the availability and cost of groceries and household supplies relative to your home country?
I find things to be reasonable here. You need to seek out local produce, otherwise you will pay dearly for US lettuce or Dutch broccoli. You can get meats from all over the world, and you just need to shop around for best quality and pricing. US cereal is pricey (about $7 a box) but delicious feta cheese is $2/pound. Learn to love Mediterranean and Middle Eastern foods and you will save $$$ on your grocery bill. Note that there is one shop in the entire country where you can buy alcohol and pork products, QDC. You must apply for a permit to shop there. It is expensive, but you can't beat a BLT or a cold beer when you want one.
3. What household or grocery items do you wish you had shipped to post?
Stock up on kid toys for the gazillion birthday parties your children will go to. Toys are expensive here. You can find everything you need here... you just might pay more for your home country creature comforts. One item I searched frantically for was pine-scented candles during Christmas. Don't pack candles if you are moving here over the summer months. They will liquify! My mother came to the rescue and mailed me some Yankee Candles from Maryland. They took a week to get here via APO.
4. What typical restaurants, food delivery services, and/or takeout options are popular among expatriates?
Holy cow! EVERY fast food restaurant is here. And most deliver. You know you're not in too exotic a place when you can find Krispy Kreme. The Middle Eastern restaurants are fantastic and cheap. You can feast on grilled lamb chops, hummous, etc. for a song. Western-style restaurants are pricier, and the hotel restaurants that serve alcohol are the priciest. You will find yourself doing a lot of cooking at home -- we put our BBQ grill to use all the time.
5. What kinds of organic, vegetarian and allergy-friendly foods are available, such as organic produce, gluten-free products, meat substitutes for vegetarians, etc?
You can find all of these. You'll just pay a bit more than you would in the US.
6. Are there any unusual problems with insects or other infestations in housing?
Very few. Some tiny ants during the summer months. Small, pesky flies at times when you're picnicking outside.
Daily Life:
1. How do you send and receive your letters and package mail? Are local postal facilities adequate?
We use the APO system. The Qatari mail system is a mystery to me. People do not have mailboxes at their homes. We currently do not use the local mail system at all.
2. What is the availability and cost of household help, and what types of help are typically employed by expatriates?
Domestic help is quite affordable. We pay $450/month for a live-in maid who is AWESOME.This is a bit on the high side. However, it is best to inherit a maid from a departing expat who can offer solid references, as quality of service can very.
3. What kinds of gyms or other sports/workout facilities are available? Are they expensive?
Yes! Most every compound has a gym that is free to use. There are also many fitness centers you can pay for.
4. Are credit cards widely accepted and safe to use locally? Are ATMs common and do you recommend using them? Are they safe to use?
Very safe. No problems at all.
5. What English-language religious services are available locally?
I'm sure they are here but you won't see church steeples.
6. English-language newspapers and TV available? Cost?
There are a few local papers and event magazines available. Local TV packages include lots of US and UK shows. Cable is affordable.
7. How much of the local language do you need for daily living? Are local language classes/tutors available and affordable?
Sadly, you don't need Arabic to live here. Signage, currency, publications, etc. are in both Arabic and English. The universal language among the myriad cultures is English. It is good to learn some Arabic greetings out of respect for the host culture. Sometimes I forget I'm in a faraway place.
8. Would someone with physical disabilities have difficulties living in this city?
The infrastructure is getting better and better by the day, but they are still not up to speed in accommodating people in wheelchairs. The lack of public transportation makes driving a must.
Transportation:
1. Are local buses, trams, trains or taxis safe and affordable?
Taxis are affordable but not always easy to come by.
2. What kind of car do you recommend bringing to post, given the terrain, availability of parts, burglary/carjacking risks, etc.? What kind of car do you advise not to bring?
You can't import a car that is more than five years old. We bought our car here as there is a robust expat auto market with all the comings and goings. We opted for a used Volvo SUV. Gas is ridiculously cheap, so don't worry about MPG. Expect some aggressive drivers! Opt for a safe car with high clearance. Lots of people drive BIG cars here. You will command more respect on the road if your vehicle is big, too.
Phone & Internet:
1. Is high-speed home Internet access available? How long does it typically take to install it after arrival?
Internet is fine but not the fastest. We are supposedly upgrading to fiber optic cables next month. Qtel is the communications monopoly here. We pay about $60/month for a 4 mb line, but it is much, much slower than that currently.
2. Do you have any recommendations regarding mobile phones? Did you keep your home-country plan or use a local provider?
Easy to get an unlocked phone here. I pay about $50/month for a generous call/data plan.
Pets:
1. Are qualified veterinarians and/or good kennel services available? Do animals need to be quarantined upon entry to the country? Are there other considerations regarding pets that are particular to this country?
No.
2. Quality pet care available (vets & kennels)?
We use the Canadian Vet Clinic for our standard poodle. They are very caring and reasonably priced. Just be aware that your dog will be limited to compound living. This is not a culture where dogs are necessarily welcome. But our dog loves our garden and lounges on the cool marble tile in the house during the hot months.
Employment & Volunteer Opportunities:
1. What types of jobs do most expatriate spouses/partners have? Locally based or telecommuting? Full-time or part-time? Can you comment on local salary scales?
Not particularly. You may find work at the school, and the embassy often has job postings. I am lucky in that I do consulting work for the US from home. This keeps me intellectually challenged and brings in extra money for family travel.
2. What is the typical dress code at work and in public places? Is formal dress ever required?
More formal in the moderate months. When it's stinking hot, things get more casual. There is a requirement for modest dress here. Women cover their shoulders and their knees-- nothing too low-cut or snug. Just be respectful. You're not in Miami.
Health & Safety:
1. Are there personal security concerns to be aware of at this post? Please describe.
No. Aside from the fact we are neighbors to the "Evil Doers," this is a very safe country to live in. This is a true melting pot of expats and the local Qataris are accepting of this. Criminals are quickly deported, and this keeps the local population on good behavior. The biggest risk here is the poor driving!
2. Are there any particular health concerns? What is the quality of available medical care? What medical conditions typically require medical evacuation?
Great healthcare!We use the Doha Clinic for almost every medical need. It's a private drop-in clinic chock full of specialists. A visit is around $50 USD and you never wait more than about 20 minutes to be seen. I'm very pleased.
3. What is the air quality like at post (good/moderate/bad)? Are there seasonal air quality issues? Does the air quality have an impact on health?
Air quality is fine, but there is a fair amount of fine sand/dust that will blow around on windy days.
4. What is the overall climate: is it extremely hot or cold, wet or dry, at any time of year, for example?
Refer to Phoenix, Arizona to answer this one. It hardly ever rains, and November through February are spectacular. Expect acceptable heat conditions in October and March but nearly intolerable heat April through September. Still, the sun is down by 6 pm in the summer months so we can swim every evening in the neighborhood pool across from our villa.
Schools & Children:
1. What is the availability of international schools? What has been your general experience with them, if any?
Our children attend the American School of Doha (ASD) and we love it. The new campus is top-notch and the teachers are incredibly creative and caring.
2. What accommodations do schools make for special-needs kids?
ASD does not have a special-needs program, and that is the one weak point about them, I think. However, there are a number of schools in the city, including The Compass School, that can accommodate special needs.
3. Are preschools available? Day care? Are these expensive? What has been your experience with them, if any? Do the schools provide before- and/or after-school care?
4. Are local sports classes and/or activities available for kids?
Tons! All year round you can find soccer, swimming, martial arts, dance, tennis, horseback riding, sailing....
Expat Life:
1. What is the relative size of the expatriate community? How would you describe overall morale among expatriates?
GINORMOUS. But, these are expats from all over the world. In our compound of 40 villas we have French, Spanish, Norwegian, Danish, Icelandic, British, Egyptian, and US -- and surely more that I'm not aware of. You won't necessarily make friends with the local Qataris, but you will make many international friends.
2. Morale among expats:
My husband and I can't understand why people complain about this place. This post has been a truly pleasant surprise. We know of some people who let boredom take over, but that's their problem, not Doha's. If you are here with your family and can't find enjoyment in it, I think you're nuts.
3. What are some typical ways to socialize, either with local people or with other expatriates? Are there groups or clubs that you can recommend?
We tend to dine out at one of the many luxury hotels about once a month. You can expect to spend about $100+ per person if you include cocktails. Otherwise, we like to entertain at home. It's easy to strike up impromptu gatherings at the compound pool or to drop by a neighbor's house with a bottle of wine. The embassy offers a calendar of social events, too, but we prefer to branch out as much as possible. There are lots of interesting people to meet here. You just need to get out there and make some friends.
4. Is this a good city for single people? For couples? For families? Why or why not?
This place is the Mac Daddy for families! I think singles and couples may find it a bit boring. If you like to entertain in a spacious home and you like having your kids running in and out of the house with a gaggle of neighborhood friends, this is the place to be. If you want a bustling metropolitan cultural mecca, you may want to pass on this post.
5. Is this a good city for LGBT expatriates? Why or why not?
I really don't know. This place is such a melange that I am sure gay people find their niche-- but not necessarily overtly.
6. Are there problems with ethnic, race/racial minorities or religious prejudices? Gender equality?
There remains a caste system for the SE Asians here. I fear that if you are SE Asian you may be treated like the low-wage labor.
7. What have been the highlights of your time in this country? Best trips or experiences?
Seeing how happy my daughters are living a "Wonder Years" existence-- running around the neighborhood with friends, riding bikes, swimming, exploring on their own. My eight-year-old can't wait to go outside on the weekends to play with friends. The TV is almost never on. Kid life is GOOD!
8. What are some interesting/fun things to do in the area? Can you recommend any “hidden gems"?
Doha is teeming with sports opportunities, you just have to look for them. There are loads of expat clubs for every interest and hobby out there. As for local culture, it's rather thin. However, we really enjoying visiting Souq Wakif (the big open-air market), walking the Corniche (the water of the Gulf is a lovely turquoise!) and the Museum of Islamic Art is a sophisticated taste of Doha's future. Luxury hotels abound and, while they are spendy, they are the only place with alcohol licenses -- so it is common for expats to frequent the restaurants and bars within them.
9. Is this a "shopping post"? Are there interesting handicrafts, artwork, antiques, or other items that people typically buy there?
Olives, cheese, sheisha pipes, incense burners, spices...Note that there are a million shopping malls here with US and UK shops galore.
10. What are the particular advantages of living in this city?
Shhh... don't tell!This is a wonderful place for families with school-aged children! It is very easy to live here: affordable, modern, cheap domestic help, spacious housing, safe, excellent schools, and perfect weather about five months of the year.
11. Can you save money?
Perhaps, if you don't go out for cocktails all the time and if you learn to adapt to local/regional groceries. We find this place really affordable overall, but we have splurged on travel. Airfare from Doha is pricey!
Words of Wisdom:
1. Knowing what you know now, would you still move to this city?
Yes, yes, yes! My girls love it here. We know a number of families who extend when they can. It's summer time and the living is easy!
2. If you move here, you can leave behind your:
assumptions about Arabs. I love how this place has shattered any prejudices I may have acquired in the US. Also, don't feel you need to stock up on much before arriving. It's all here.
3. But don't forget your:
sweaters and jackets for the "winter" months, as it will dip into the upper-50s at night. Bring your grill, your swimsuits, your sunglasses, your defensive driver skills, and your openness to not-terribly-exotic expat suburban existence.
4. Do you recommend any books or movies about this city/country for those who are interested in learning more?
5. Recommended movies/DVDs related to this city:
6. Do you have any other comments?
I think Doha is a real gem. If you find this post on your bid list, don't overlook it. You won't find much by way of cultural sophistication, but you will discover a family-friendly place where you have the time to make your own fun.
