Doha, Qatar Report of what it's like to live there - 05/07/17
Personal Experiences from Doha, Qatar
Background:
1. Was this post your first expatriate experience? If not, what other cities have you lived in as an expat?
This was my first expatriate experience.
2. What is your home city/country? How long is the trip to post from there, with what connections? How easy/difficult is it to travel to this city/country?
Home is Washington, D.C. Direct flights to D.C. on Qatar Airways from Dulles take 13 hours or so.
3. How long have you lived here?
Just wrapping up a two-year tour.
4. What brought you to this city (e.g. diplomatic mission, business, NGO, military, teaching, retirement, etc.)?
U.S. Department of State.
Housing, Groceries & Food:
1. What is your housing like? What are typical housing sizes, locations, and commute times for expatriates?
The housing is comfortable, and typically quite spacious. Our furnished apartment was great, though it lacked outdoor space. Where you run into trouble is the build quality standards. There aren't any. Even though a lot of the properties in Doha might look fantastic, they constantly have serious issues like bursting and/or leaking pipes, mold, craftsmanship, etc. As one Facilities Manager put it to me "it's a city of finely polished turds."
2. How would you describe the availability and cost of groceries and household supplies relative to your home country?
Availability hasn't been a problem, other than the lack of pork and alcohol (though both are available at QDC). Prices are higher to be sure, I'd say 1.5 times standard D.C. prices on most products. Having said that, if you're willing to pay for it, you can get it in Doha. See the $9 USD bag of Doritos I splurge on here and there.
3. What household or grocery items do you wish you had shipped to post?
For the ladies, I highly recommend you stock up on tampons. Because they don't sell them here. Vanilla extract isn't available, as it contains something like .04% alcohol. Neither are red wine vinegar, apple cider vinegar and the like. Everything else that we can't get locally, we just order from Amazon.
4. What typical restaurants, food delivery services, and/or takeout options are popular among expatriates?
Literally everything. There's a reason the Middle East is the fattest region in the world. It's because they eat a ton of junk and fast food. McDonalds, Burger King, Subway, KFC, FatBurger, Shake Shack, Elevation Burger, Which Wich, TGI Fridays, Applebees, Chilis, Cheesecake Factory, Texas Roadhouse, Uno's, Pizza Hut, Dominoes, Papa Johns, Buffalos, CA Tortilla, Red Lobster, PF Changs, Nandos....and that's just off the top of my head. And almost all of them deliver. Seriously.
Having said that, there is also a ton of really, really good food here. Places like Turkey Central, Thai Snack, MRA, Cavaran Bukhara, Al Adhamiyah, Shiraz Garden, Bandar Aden, Al Sultan, Yellow Cab and more are fantastic. If anyone tells you they don't like the food here, it's because they didn't try hard enough.
5. Are there any unusual problems with insects or other infestations in housing?
None, other than the bout of fruit flies my apartment building dealt with last summer.
Daily Life:
1. How do you send and receive your letters and package mail? Are local postal facilities adequate?
The Embassy has an APO, and it's great. Packages from Amazon take no more than seven days or so to arrive. I've never used the local Qatari postal services, so I can't comment.
2. What is the availability and cost of household help, and what types of help are typically employed by expatriates?
If you're looking for a live-in, the market is extremely tough. Everyone is always looking for good quality help, which is typically Filipino. Be prepared to put on the gloves, as it can be a fight to secure the live-in you really want. Expect to pay for the "13th month" of salary, plus a plane ticket to their home country once a year, as this is local law.
If you're looking simply for a live-out person to clean, the pricing is pretty great. I think four hours runs us like $60, including tip. Really good value.
3. What kinds of gyms or other sports/workout facilities are available? Are they expensive?
All of the compounds and apartment towers have gyms. Quality can vary greatly. All of the hotels have impressive and extremely expensive gyms as well. Monthly memberships are available. Classes are an additional (and also expensive) cost.
4. Are credit cards widely accepted and safe to use locally? Are ATMs common and do you recommend using them? Are they safe to use?
Credit cards are widely accepted, widely used and extremely safe. ATMs are easy to find and safe to use.
5. What English-language religious services are available locally?
There is a religious complex somewhere in the city that the Qatari government has allowed and is fully legal. They have a swath of Christian services, as well as a mix of other religions. I've heard it gets extremely crowded and parking can be tough. I know there are some "under the table" services at private residences that are not legally condoned.
6. How much of the local language do you need for daily living? Are local language classes/tutors available and affordable?
Zero. Like literally none. Zip. My wife was mandated a 2/1 in Modern Standard Arabic, and has used 0.00% since our arrival. English is ubiquitous.
7. Would someone with physical disabilities have difficulties living in this city?
I would think they would have a hard time getting around with all of the current construction and total lack of sidewalks or sidewalk-like areas. But once you got to where you were going, you'd probably be all right.
Transportation:
1. Are local buses, trams, trains or taxis safe and affordable?
There are buses and taxis. Both reasonably affordable, though safety is questionable, as a lot of drivers here are extremely reckless. They are currently working on a metro line, but it won't be completed for a few years. Uber is the most popular means of getting around town without your own vehicle.
2. What kind of car do you recommend bringing to post, given the terrain, availability of parts, burglary/carjacking risks, etc.? What kind of car do you advise not to bring?
If you have the money, you do as the Qataris do and buy a Lotus or a Ferrari. Otherwise, bring or buy an SUV, though a standard sedan is fine for Doha commuting. And you're going to want a V6, as the smaller V4 engines have a tough time with the sweltering heat. The roads are pretty close what you'd find in the U.S., though they use an oil-based blacktop, so when it rains they get extremely slick.
Understand that it is essential to have a car here. You can't get around without one. Period.
Phone & Internet:
1. Is high-speed home Internet access available? How long does it typically take to install it after arrival?
Our internet has been pretty close to flawless. I'm not sure we've always gotten the speeds which we're paying for, but it's always worked, and well. We're constantly streaming HD movies, videos, sports, YouTube and more, and typically multiple devices at the same time. (Plus we've never lost power or had an electrical surge.)
2. Do you have any recommendations regarding mobile phones? Did you keep your home-country plan or use a local provider?
Bring an unlocked smartphone and get a local plan with Ooredoo, Qatar's mobile service company. I think my mobile plan runs around $60 a month or so for 7gb of data and more phone time than I can use.
Pets:
1. Are qualified veterinarians and/or good kennel services available? Do animals need to be quarantined upon entry to the country? Are there other considerations regarding pets that are particular to this country?
There are many good and qualified vets in Doha. No quarantine required. Be mindful of the heat when bringing pets, as outdoor animals will find it difficult and dangerous to be outside for more than a couple minutes during the seven-month-long summer.
Employment & Volunteer Opportunities:
1. What types of jobs do most expatriate spouses/partners have? Locally based or telecommuting? Full-time or part-time? Can you comment on local salary scales?
There is no bilateral work agreement with the U.S. and Qatar. A small handful of our EFMs work on the local market, and it takes some time and patience to find something. Having said that, the local market is booming with high-paying investment and oil jobs.
Most EFMs who want to work are employed at the U.S. mission. Our front office has been extremely proactive about employing any and all EFMs who want a job.
2. What volunteer opportunities are available locally?
I'm sure you could volunteer at a school or something, but this isn't sub-Saharan Africa. I'd wager to guess you'll have a hard time finding many fulfilling volunteer opportunities in Qatar.
3. What is the typical dress code at work and in public places? Is formal dress ever required?
It's an Islamic country, therefore modest female dress is expected pretty much at all times. Women need to cover their shoulders, knees and cleavage in public. Otherwise you'll get the occasional sneer or hiss from the older Qatari women. Though, my wife always covered appropriately and she got hissed at anyway, so what do I know.
Men can wear pretty much anything within reason. Shorts are acceptable at malls and such, but be sure they cover your knees. When going to a hotel bar, restaurant or brunch, you must wear long pants and close-toed shoes.
Health & Safety:
1. Are there personal security concerns to be aware of at this post? Please describe.
Qatar was ranked as the #2 safest country in 2016, just behind Singapore. Even with all that Qatar is lacking, it's certainly a safe place to be. Keep in mind though that this is the Middle East, and we're right in the heart of the lion's den. Don't allow the safety here to lull you into not paying attention to your surroundings.
2. Are there any particular health concerns? What is the quality of available medical care? What medical conditions typically require medical evacuation?
The air quality here is some of the worst in the world. It has negatively effected any and everyone who has spent some quality time in Doha. Having never had any medical or dental care here, I can't directly comment. It is worth noting that a couple of folks who have had dental work and minor surgery/PT here have had some serious issues post-op that forced them to medically evacuate to London and the U.S. for follow-up care.
3. What is the air quality like at post (good/moderate/bad)? Are there seasonal air quality issues? Does the air quality have an impact on health?
Terrible. The PM 2.5 levels in Qatar are some of the worst in the world. Really - look it up and do the research for yourself. There are little to no construction codes here, and all of the ongoing construction is dumping some pretty hazardous materials into the air. There are days when you can't even see out the window it's so bad. The air filters the Embassy has given us help, but in no way mitigate the effects of the airborne toxins. On top of that, it's the desert, so there is always a tan hue to the air because of all the sand you're inhaling.
Everyone, at some point during their tour, will get nosebleeds, a miserable cough, sick at least three to four times a year and generally feel nauseous from the air pollution. (And if you're a drinker, you can expect the air pollution to cause some of the worst hangovers of your life.)
You've been warned.
4. What do people who suffer from environmental or food allergies need to know?
There is dusty sand everywhere all the time. If this is an issue, stay away. There isn't much plant life here, so my spring hay fever allergies are nil, which has been a plus. As for food allergens, most restaurants will happily work with you to eliminate whatever might trigger you in their dishes.
5. Are there any particular mental health issues that tend to crop up at post, such as Seasonal Affective Disorder (winter blues)?
Oh yes. With the absolute lack of things to do here and need for a car to go anywhere, Doha can be extremely isolating and lonely. A lot of people, especially EFMs, will experience situational depression, from what I've seen. It's quite common, unfortunately.
6. What is the overall climate: is it extremely hot or cold, wet or dry, at any time of year, for example?
Seven months of the year are brutal, repressive heat like you've never experienced. Most of this is dry heat, though August and September are shockingly humid, making it difficult to be outside for more than 90 seconds or so.
Come October-November, everything changes and the weather is just spectacular. It's like someone made a best-of San Diego mixtape and hit the play button in Doha. Splendid, dry gorgeous days and evenings that last through the end of March.
Schools & Children:
1. What is the availability of international schools? What has been your general experience with them, if any?
The American School of Doha (ASD) is considered one of the top-five best American Schools in the world. They are top shelf, though their one knock is they aren't always the best with learning disabilities.
2. What accommodations do schools make for special-needs kids?
3. Are preschools available? Day care? Are these expensive? What has been your experience with them, if any? Do the schools provide before- and/or after-school care?
Pre-schools are available and expensive. And Qatar has a law which mandates all children must attend pre-K, which the DOS doesn't cover. Meaning that those with pre-K kids are going out of pocket and shelling out big bucks.
4. Are local sports classes and/or activities available for kids?
Yes. The Aspire Zone has loads of classes for kids and adults alike.
Expat Life:
1. What is the relative size of the expatriate community? How would you describe overall morale among expatriates?
90% of the population are expats, and for a country of 2.67 million people, that's a lot of expats.
I can say that for the diplomatic bubble, the morale typically ranges from mediocre to poor. A lot of this hinges on the work environment, which has certainly improved in our time here. But even now, the general morale of the community is fair at best.
2. What are some typical ways to socialize, either with local people or with other expatriates? Are there groups or clubs that you can recommend?
Drinking. I mean it - I've never seen the kind of aggressive, heavy drinking that happens here every weekend. It's been a fundamental part of every social gathering we've been to. And we've been to a lot.
Weekend brunches are without question the go-to for western expat socializing. Doha Moms is a large, mafia-like group that's extremely popular with mothers. There are lots of Facebook meet-up groups, or so I've heard. With that said, there are still a lot of people here who lack real friendships and human connection.
If you're looking to socialize with the Qataris, good luck. Please let me know if you find a way, as we certainly haven't.
3. Is this a good city for single people? For couples? For families? Why or why not?
If you're a single western man, you'll probably do just fine, granted that you're into Southeast Asian women. I've heard that single Western women can do alright, but again you're probably looking at dating a lot of non-Westerners.
We are married without kids and found Doha to be extremely boring about 95% of the time, as there is a shocking lack of things to do in a city of this size.
Families have it best, as Doha is geared to those with kids. Almost every event in town is catered to families with little ones. Even then, I'm told many families spend their weekends like the rest of us: in front of the TV wishing there was more to do.
4. Is this a good city for LGBT expatriates? Why or why not?
On the surface, no. But having worked with and befriended a few within the LGBT community, I can say that there is certainly a healthy and vibrant LGBT scene in Doha. But it's "don't ask, don't tell," and it's all kept very hush-hush.
5. Are there problems with ethnic, race/racial minorities or religious prejudices? Gender equality?
Yes and yes. This is a very strict Islamic country. Many folks call Qatar "Saudi Lite" when in fact, in a lot of ways, it's far stricter than Saudi Arabia. Sure they sell booze here, but there is a very conservative undercurrent in Qatar, where in Saudi it's trending in the other direction. It's really been surprising to see how things have grown more conservative in the time we've been here.
As for gender prejudice/equality, again it's an Islamic country. You can expect all of the local Qatari women to be fully covered - full facial veils, gloves, abayas, etc. It can take a while to get accustomed to.
6. What have been the highlights of your time in this country? Best trips or experiences?
Honestly, the highlights have been all of the vacations we've taken outside of Qatar. It's a great location to travel. You can get a lot of great places within six hours or so.
Locally within Qatar, the vacation we've most enjoyed is a long weekend to Banana Island. It's just lovely.
It's also worth noting that most everyone get island fever. Because Qatar is the size of Rhode Island and is attached only to Saudi Arabia (which you don't just get to visit on the spur of the moment), people here get cooped up and must get out at least once every couple of months.
7. What are some interesting/fun things to do in the area? Can you recommend any “hidden gems"?
I hate to say it, but all of the following "things to do" can be completed in one long weekend. You're then stuck with another 720+ days to figure out what else to do with your time:
Museum of Islamic Art, Souq Waqif, East-West West-East, Cinema City, Al Zubarah Fort, dune bashing, camel rides, catch a camel race, dhow cruise, Katara, walk around the Pearl, kayaking the mangroves, Inland Sea, desert camping/glamping, stroll the Corniche, Sheikh Faisal museum (be sure to ask to see the Saddam Hussein room), Festival City, Mall of Qatar and the 45+ other malls in Doha.
8. Is this a "shopping post"? Are there interesting handicrafts, artwork, antiques, or other items that people typically buy there?
Most of the handicrafts that you'll see for sale here were made in Turkey, UAE, Oman, Saudi, etc. So yes you can buy some regional items, most all of them aren't from Qatar.
The three things that have been the biggest hit with friends and family back home around the holidays have been the high-quality Saudi dates, Iranian saffron, and oudh.
9. What are the particular advantages of living in this city?
As mentioned earlier, you can get to a lot of desirable places with a six-hour plane ride. Greece, Italy, Egypt, Oman, UAE, Germany, France...in fact most all of Europe, Sri Lanka, India, parts of SE Asia - all are reasonable, direct flights with Qatar Airways (a code share with American Airlines BTW).
Other than that, I guess I'd say the food. I've put on a few pounds (as has everyone here), but the restaurant scene, though somewhat limited, is really solid. It's safe here, we've never worried about being mugged or anything like that. And most all of the desired creature comforts are available here - for a price.
Words of Wisdom:
1. What do you wish you had known about this particular city/country before moving there?
I came to Qatar with fantasies of eating shawarma and smoking shisha poolside with my new Qatari friends. How funny reality is, as I have literally done none of that poolside. Sure I've eaten all the shawarma, and smoked a few shishas. But I've made zero Qatari friends. In fact the best friends I've made here are Canadian, Lebanese and Indian. Go figure.
What I really wish I had known a few years back is how isolating and cold Qatar can be. I wish I had known how little there is to do here most every weekend and weeknight. I wish someone had whispered us the old adage that "Doha's is what you make of it. It's a make-your-own-fun kinda post."
Like the Qatari women, this is a veiled and very private tribal society that isn't welcoming to outsiders.
2. Knowing what you know now, would you still move to this city?
Meh.
The first six months me would say "absolutely not. No way, no how. It's miserable here."
Six to eighteen months me would say "I don't like it here. But I can handle it, I suppose."
The eighteen to twenty-four months me is now saying "Meh, it's ok. I neither like it nor hate it."
I would say that if you're single or married without kids, look elsewhere. If you've got a family, you'll probably do just fine in Doha.
To take my own advice, and seeing as I'm married without kids, I think in retrospect we should've looked elsewhere.
3. If you move here, you can leave behind your:
Pork, booze, porno, mini-skirts, halter-tops and general understanding of what fun is.
4. But don't forget your:
Apple TV, One World Alliance membership number, your tank-like SUV and pants with elastic waists.
5. Do you recommend any books or movies about this city/country for those who are interested in learning more?
Doha Film Institute (DFI) has funded many great films like "Timbuktu," "The Salesman," "The Idol" and many more.
6. Do you have any other comments?
The #1 phrase I've lived by in Doha has been "if it's working, you're not doing it right."
In the end, Doha lacks a tangible heart and soul. It lacks character, there isn't a vibe or a scene you can attach yourself to. I'm a pretty passionate person, and this city has zero passion that appeals to me and my lifestyle. If you come to Doha expecting a miniature Dubai, you are in for a world of hurt. When taking this post under consideration, remember that Qatar is closer in line with Saudi Arabia than the UAE. It's not all bad, but then it really ain't that good, either.
