Pretoria, South Africa Report of what it's like to live there - 03/24/19
Personal Experiences from Pretoria, South Africa
Background:
1. Was this post your first expatriate experience? If not, what other cities have you lived in as an expat?
Second, after Mexico City.
2. What is your home city/country? How long is the trip to post from there, with what connections? How easy/difficult is it to travel to this city/country?
Delta has a non-stop flight from Atlanta to Joburg (16 hours). South African Airways flies from DC (17 hours).
3. How long have you lived here?
Three years, 2012-2015
4. What brought you to this city (e.g. diplomatic mission, business, NGO, military, teaching, retirement, etc.)?
US embassy.
Housing, Groceries & Food:
1. What is your housing like? What are typical housing sizes, locations, and commute times for expatriates?
Pretoria is a small city (400,000) and most of the embassy housing is within 15 minutes of the embassy, in Waterkloof, Menlo Park, or Monument Park. A few houses are further out. Houses are split between stand-alone and compound (3-6 houses sharing a common gate).
2. How would you describe the availability and cost of groceries and household supplies relative to your home country?
Groceries are slightly less expensive than in the US. Woolworths is a fantastic SA-run grocery + home chain which is omnipresent, and has a great abundance of high-quality and interesting fresh foods — think of a combo Trader Joe’s + Whole Foods.
We do use pouch mail a lot because US-imported goods (toys, electronics, books) can be expensive. However, nearly everything you want, you can get easily on the local economy here.
3. What typical restaurants, food delivery services, and/or takeout options are popular among expatriates?
If you’re looking for great restaurants, go to Cape Town instead. In Pretoria, there is an abundance of mediocre family-friendly Italian chains. There is little-to-no ‘African’ food, except in a few restaurants catering to tourists, and that sold on the street in the downtown / townships. Most of the food at higher-end places is Afrikaner / European continental (lots of red meat, butter, and cream).
There are several pizza joints in Pretoria that will beat anything in the US for creativity (Toni’s; Piza e Vino). There is also a great Indian place (Geet).
4. Are there any unusual problems with insects or other infestations in housing?
Minor issues with ants. Very few mosquitoes (the country has nearly eradicated malaria). There are a lot of beautiful insects here — colorful grasshoppers, praying mantises, etc.
Daily Life:
1. How do you send and receive your letters and package mail? Are local postal facilities adequate?
Pouch mail takes about 10 days to get here from the US.
2. What is the availability and cost of household help, and what types of help are typically employed by expatriates?
We pay $400 - $700/month for full-time help, which is on the upper end.
3. What kinds of gyms or other sports/workout facilities are available? Are they expensive?
The Virgin club seems to be popular.
4. Are credit cards widely accepted and safe to use locally? Are ATMs common and do you recommend using them? Are they safe to use?
I use them all the time and have never had a problem. Some people have been scammed / held up at ATMs. The South African banking system is in many ways much more advanced than the US’s — for instance, it’s very common to send person-to-person instant payments electronically through your cell phone, and they have done this much longer than Venmo or PayPal.
5. What English-language religious services are available locally?
No idea. Most people are some variety of Christian.
6. How much of the local language do you need for daily living? Are local language classes/tutors available and affordable?
Nearly everyone speaks English. I took a course in Zulu, but in the end English is used universally. Afrikaans is still used heavily especially in the rural / agricultural white areas, but it is not a growing language and you would be unlikely to need it.
7. Would someone with physical disabilities have difficulties living in this city?
Pretoria is probably better than most cities, although not up to US standards.
Transportation:
1. Are local buses, trams, trains or taxis safe and affordable?
The Gautrain is a new (2012) high-speed train between Joburg, Pretoria, and the airport, which is fast, cheap, and safe. It doesn’t have very many stops, but is great if you’re going the right place.
There is also an older Metro rail system, which is cheaper but very slow (2 hours to Johannesburg, vs. 30 minutes on the Gautrain), and expats don't usually use it.
Traditional taxis are rare. In many cases you have to give them 24 hours notice, and even then, they’re liable to not show up. Uber came to Pretoria / Johannesburg in 2015 and was sorely needed.
2. What kind of car do you recommend bringing to post, given the terrain, availability of parts, burglary/carjacking risks, etc.? What kind of car do you advise not to bring?
We bought two used cars on the local economy. Toyotas and VWs are everywhere, and can be repaired easily. US imports (like Ford) are substantially more expensive to repair.
In general, cars here cost about 50% more than in the US (both used and new).
Driving is on the left side and it is uncommon import a vehicle from the US.
A 2WD is fine for regular city / highway driving, or for getting to the safari lodges. There is a big culture of 4WD off-roading here, and a 4WD could be used for self-drive safaris.
Driving at night is extremely unsafe, both because of road hazards and crime. Don’t get stranded or you are likely to be held up.
Phone & Internet:
1. Is high-speed home Internet access available? How long does it typically take to install it after arrival?
Reliable and fast DSL for $60/month.
2. Do you have any recommendations regarding mobile phones? Did you keep your home-country plan or use a local provider?
Service is cheap and reliable on any of the major carriers (I use Vodacom). Bring an unlocked phone and buy a SIM card here.
Pets:
1. Are qualified veterinarians and/or good kennel services available? Do animals need to be quarantined upon entry to the country? Are there other considerations regarding pets that are particular to this country?
There was a lot of paperwork to get our cats here, but they didn’t need quarantining. Vets are good, and similar to US standards and prices.
Employment & Volunteer Opportunities:
1. What types of jobs do most expatriate spouses/partners have? Locally based or telecommuting? Full-time or part-time? Can you comment on local salary scales?
As a spouse, I found a job teaching at a major university in Pretoria which was a great opportunity. Several other spouses have gotten jobs in IT. Unemployment is high nationally, but there is still a shortage of skilled workers, so if you are a niche specialist, you might be in luck. Spouses of embassy hires are given work permits here.
2. What volunteer opportunities are available locally?
There is much need for volunteerism (tutoring, cleanup, etc), although you might have to organize projects yourself. I did a lot of science outreach across the country in rural schools, and if you have the skills and inclination to put programs together, there is a virtually limitless audience. The US Embassy runs a science outreach library in one of the local townships as well (Mamelodi).
3. What is the typical dress code at work and in public places? Is formal dress ever required?
Many people dress up fashionably but many don’t.
Health & Safety:
1. Are there personal security concerns to be aware of at this post? Please describe.
Definitely. Most expats live the way that well-off South Africans do: in fortified compounds, surrounded by electric fences, with alarms, gates, and security guards. We have never had a break-in but many people have. A lot of the crime is violent — it’s shootings and carjackings more than pickpocketing. We have seen a few smash-and-grabs and two guns being waved around; several of our neighbors have had break-ins. The embassy houses are very secure (better than the norm) assuming you are prudent and keep doors locked, alarms on, etc.
As a result of all this security, it is rare to see/meet our neighbors casually — most residents don’t walk on the streets and you don’t just bump into them.
2. Are there any particular health concerns? What is the quality of available medical care? What medical conditions typically require medical evacuation?
Private hospitals are very good. I would happily have surgery here.
3. What is the air quality like at post (good/moderate/bad)? Are there seasonal air quality issues? Does the air quality have an impact on health?
Very clean air, with blue skies almost daily.
4. What do people who suffer from environmental or food allergies need to know?
Pretoria is probably a good place to be. There are a lot of flowers in the spring.
5. Are there any particular mental health issues that tend to crop up at post, such as Seasonal Affective Disorder (winter blues)?
I got cabin fever from being locked up inside our compound a bit too much. I am not aware of anything major.
6. What is the overall climate: is it extremely hot or cold, wet or dry, at any time of year, for example?
Pretoria is ‘pleasant’ — it gets below freezing a few times a year, and can be warm in the summer, but it's never humid. Pretoria itself is at an elevation of about 4500’. There is snow occasionally in the country's high peaks, but not in town.
Schools & Children:
1. What is the availability of international schools? What has been your general experience with them, if any?
The American International School has two campuses — one north of Joburg (K-12), and one on the east side of Pretoria (K-8). They are good schools -- not the best we have had internationally, but good teachers and solid management and facilities. The student body is mostly expats; compared to other schools here it’s very expensive and not many South Africans can afford it.
2. Are preschools available? Day care? Are these expensive? What has been your experience with them, if any? Do the schools provide before- and/or after-school care?
Private preschools are good and low-cost (few hundred dollars a month).
3. Are local sports classes and/or activities available for kids?
The University of Pretoria offers very intense sports training for kids, and has produced many world-class athletes.
Expat Life:
1. What is the relative size of the expatriate community? How would you describe overall morale among expatriates?
Very large group here (between all the embassies and NGOs). People seem to be pretty happy.
2. What are some typical ways to socialize, either with local people or with other expatriates? Are there groups or clubs that you can recommend?
Due to safety concerns, there is not a big culture of going out at night.
South Africa loves shopping malls, and a lot of people end up there socially, because they’re safe.
3. Is this a good city for single people? For couples? For families? Why or why not?
Good for families. For singles, it's hard to go out at night because of safety concerns.
4. Is this a good city for LGBT expatriates? Why or why not?
Good I would think.
5. Is it easy to make friends with locals here? Are there any prejudices or any ethnic groups who might feel uncomfortable here?
People are friendly and I knew many people socially from my work on the local economy.
6. Are there problems with ethnic, race/racial minorities or religious prejudices? Gender equality?
You can’t do anything in South Africa without being very aware of the huge social disparity between black and white. Although apartheid ended 20+ years ago, the effects of this will live on for generations. In broad strokes, most white people (5-10% of the population) are educated and employed, while black schools are often very bad, and the black unemployment rate is extremely high.
While the vast majority of the country is legally open to everyone, in reality the economics are such that in many restaurants and hotels, it is still black employees serving rich white clientele.
Pretoria — the capital of the Afrikaner government — is more segregated than many cities. There are very few black home-owners in the areas where most expats live. Johannesburg is pleasantly more diverse.
There is a growing black middle class, and the university-educated black population is growing. But change takes a long time.
7. What have been the highlights of your time in this country? Best trips or experiences?
Definitely lots of safaris. It is a very outdoors-friendly country.
8. What are some interesting/fun things to do in the area? Can you recommend any “hidden gems"?
Safaris are really great and we have been on a lot of them. They are not cheap (figure $100-$300/person/night, even at the discounted prices for residents). But it’s an experience like nothing else, and we spent many, many weeks on safari.
While most of the safari parks are 4-6 hours from Pretoria, there are two smaller parks on the Pretoria outskirts where you can see (from your car) free-ranging giraffe, rhino, springbok, impala, eland, ostrich, oryx, blesbok, wildebeest, hippos, hundreds of birds, and more.
Pretoria itself is a little sleepy and we end up going to Johannesburg very frequently, for the restaurants / parks / museums / markets / etc.
Nationwide, SA is a diverse country, with beaches, diving, surfing, mountains, camping, wine tasting, caves, history, animals, rivers, telescopes, soccer, dunes, townships, and on and on. It’s a relatively large country (3x the size of California), so you won’t see it all.
Cape Town is a different world from Pretoria / Johannesburg. It’s the most cosmopolitan and touristy city in southern Africa, and maybe the most beautiful too. It can feel more Euro-glitzy than African. It's beautiful for a getaway, but Johannesburg is much more typical of African cities.
Johannesburg is 30 minutes away, has a lot of neighborhoods, and is a real African city with art, grime, food, industry, food, crime, and everything else in between.
South Africa is also a good jumping-off point for the rest of the region: we took trips to Namibia, Swaziland, and Madagascar, all of which are wildly different from South Africa.
9. Is this a "shopping post"? Are there interesting handicrafts, artwork, antiques, or other items that people typically buy there?
Beaded animals and other local crafts. Wine.
10. What are the particular advantages of living in this city?
It’s a beautiful country with a lot of change. There is a ton to see, the country is large, and there are a lot of engaging and diverse people.
Words of Wisdom:
1. What do you wish you had known about this particular city/country before moving there?
I hadn’t appreciated the huge disparity between black and white that still exists — both socially and economically. It is jarring at first, and in the end you put up with it and do your part to make things better.
2. Knowing what you know now, would you still move to this city?
For sure.
3. If you move here, you can leave behind your:
Skiis.
4. But don't forget your:
Heater; warm jacket.
5. Do you recommend any books or movies about this city/country for those who are interested in learning more?
Bang Bang Club, about journalists covering the transition from apartheid. Tsotsi (set in Joburg, and the Waterkloof suburb in Pretoria where many expats live).
