Pretoria, South Africa Report of what it's like to live there - 01/25/20
Personal Experiences from Pretoria, South Africa
Background:
1. Was this post your first expatriate experience? If not, what other cities have you lived in as an expat?
No, we have lived in four other countries on three different continents.
2. What is your home city/country? How long is the trip to post from there, with what connections? How easy/difficult is it to travel to this city/country?
Washington, DC. Easy, but long direct flights or connections in Europe. Sometimes very cheap - $850 or less to the US via London. Can also get to the west coast via Asia and there are many special fares. Johannesburg airport is about 35 minutes from Pretoria and is a global hub.
3. How long have you lived here?
Two years.
4. What brought you to this city (e.g. diplomatic mission, business, NGO, military, teaching, retirement, etc.)?
US Embassy.
Housing, Groceries & Food:
1. What is your housing like? What are typical housing sizes, locations, and commute times for expatriates?
Housing is very suburban - think Reston, but with electric fences and security gates. Embassy housing is on compounds and stand-alone houses. Compounds can be smaller homes with smaller yards but are often newer and more secure. If you need live-in quarters for a nanny/housekeeper, say so in your housing questionnaire as not all houses have them. One interesting trend is that employees tend to be relegated to the smaller compound houses, even at the more senior levels. Commute times range from 15-25 minutes, and no houses are really that much more or less conveniently located to shopping, etc. than any others.
2. How would you describe the availability and cost of groceries and household supplies relative to your home country?
The exchange rate is approximately 40% more advantageous for the USD than purchasing power parity so costs are not high at all. Availability is great - everything you need is here as are some treats you didn't know you needed. Gluten free and other specialty products are available in the major cities.
3. What household or grocery items do you wish you had shipped to post?
Zip lock bags and aluminum foil; they are available here but not great quality.
4. What typical restaurants, food delivery services, and/or takeout options are popular among expatriates?
Breweries, pizza places, Indian food, food truck nights, uber eats - everything. The selection is on par with that in DC.
5. Are there any unusual problems with insects or other infestations in housing?
Not really. We did have some kind of critter living in our roof/trees - maybe a bush baby? Its not buggy here.
Daily Life:
1. How do you send and receive your letters and package mail? Are local postal facilities adequate?
Local postal facilities are totally inadequate, but courier services are good and can deliver your cases of wine from Cape Town in 48 hours for fewer than $10. We rely on pouch for mail to and from the US, but even that can be problematic. There was an issue with theft in 2019, and it never seemed to be fully resolved.
2. What is the availability and cost of household help, and what types of help are typically employed by expatriates?
A full-time live in housekeeper/nanny will run about US$550-$700 a month with all the allowances factored in. Some of the available workforce are Zimbabwean and may need assistance in sorting out visas. Most do not cook.
3. What kinds of gyms or other sports/workout facilities are available? Are they expensive?
Tons! Planet Fitness and Virgin Athletic are the most prominent. Not expensive like in DC, but not dirt cheap. There is a very well-equipped gym available for free at the community center (mission employees only) so if that is an interest, ask to have a house near the cc.
4. Are credit cards widely accepted and safe to use locally? Are ATMs common and do you recommend using them? Are they safe to use?
Yes, credit cards are widely accepted but in many cases international cards cannot be used to pay for trips, beach houses, grocery delivery (even from Woolworth's), etc. Many people have local accounts and EFT money to vendors. ATMs can be dangerous: lots of dudes lurking around, and I've heard that many people have been robbed either violently or by sleight of hand.
5. What English-language religious services are available locally?
All.
6. How much of the local language do you need for daily living? Are local language classes/tutors available and affordable?
English is fine.
7. Would someone with physical disabilities have difficulties living in this city?
There might be some frustrations but in general it appears limited mobility access is factored in to most buildings, parking lots, etc. I am not sure about how life here might be with other types of disabilities.
Transportation:
1. Are local buses, trams, trains or taxis safe and affordable?
No. The Gautrain is fine but local and regional trains and taxi buses are not. Uber generally works well but there have been problems.
2. What kind of car do you recommend bringing to post, given the terrain, availability of parts, burglary/carjacking risks, etc.? What kind of car do you advise not to bring?
Carjacking is a major risk; do not underestimate the degree of violent crime, especially with regard to cars. All kinds of cars are here and 4x4 may be occasionally useful for a game drive but is not essential.
Phone & Internet:
1. Is high-speed home Internet access available? How long does it typically take to install it after arrival?
It can take forever to set up: a process involving phone calls, installation contractors, pin numbers via sms, more phone calls, and a lot of waiting but when it finally arrives it is generally fine. There are now truly uncapped plans (in the past you'd get throttled - basically shut off - after roughly three Netflix movies) that are fine for most users for US$75-100 a month.
2. Do you have any recommendations regarding mobile phones? Did you keep your home-country plan or use a local provider?
You may need a letter form the Embassy stating residency to get a local SIM card - or you may not. You have to ask for this letter prior to arrival if you want to get a phone set up within a few days of arrival. It seems like something that should be easier, but seems to be usually require visiting a few offices to get it complete. is very expensive compared to the US.
Pets:
1. Are qualified veterinarians and/or good kennel services available? Do animals need to be quarantined upon entry to the country? Are there other considerations regarding pets that are particular to this country?
Yes, many, don't know about importing.
Employment & Volunteer Opportunities:
1. What types of jobs do most expatriate spouses/partners have? Locally based or telecommuting? Full-time or part-time? Can you comment on local salary scales?
All of the above and decent options within the US mission. Local unemployment is high but there tend to be opportunities for skilled professionals. It is a very mature economy and academia is robust.
2. What volunteer opportunities are available locally?
Many but many South Africans are really skeptical of foreigners, so it might be hard to find a good fit.
3. What is the typical dress code at work and in public places? Is formal dress ever required?
At work, slightly less formal than DC. Away from work - whatever. Depends where you are, and all of the "safari" wear is available here. It is a pretty casual society.
Health & Safety:
1. Are there personal security concerns to be aware of at this post? Please describe.
Personal security concerns are extremely serious and must be factored in to daily life. This place would be perfect if not for the crime, but the threat really is exhausting and stressful. This is a whole society that is stressed out by the threat of violence at every turn; DC feels relaxing compared to Pretoria in terms of crime. I have not seen a high degree of responsiveness when concerns are reported. Local police are sometimes competent, sometimes completely ineffective. Corruption is a factor. You do not want to breakdown on the side of the road here, anywhere.
2. Are there any particular health concerns? What is the quality of available medical care? What medical conditions typically require medical evacuation?
Medical and dental care is excellent. This is a regional med-evac point. Lots of babies born here.
3. What is the air quality like at post (good/moderate/bad)? Are there seasonal air quality issues? Does the air quality have an impact on health?
Good - sometimes hazy but usually blue skies and gorgeous sunsets. The weather is generally an advantage to this post, as it is pretty nice year round.
4. What do people who suffer from environmental or food allergies need to know?
No unusual concerns. We are all allergic to puff adders and cobras so be careful outdoors and hike with poles. Pretoria has several "snake removal" experts which is good...I guess?
5. Are there any particular mental health issues that tend to crop up at post, such as Seasonal Affective Disorder (winter blues)?
I think the big issue at this post is the crime threat which is a real cause of stress - sometimes it takes a trip to the US or other lower-risk place to realize how much it really affects life here. All cynicism aside, DC is relatively safe, and here is not.
6. What is the overall climate: is it extremely hot or cold, wet or dry, at any time of year, for example?
See above - pretty nice year round. Rainy summers.
Schools & Children:
1. What is the availability of international schools? What has been your general experience with them, if any?
There are a few choices, but most people in the mission go with AISJ which is pretty good. It is not the most academically rigorous school ever but the kids are happy and there are great teachers. For high school, kids have to commute to Johannesburg but they all seem to tolerate it fairly well. Facilities are very nice on both Pretoria and Joburg campuses. The school offers lots of good after school activities. We have been happy with the school even if it is imperfect in a few ways: too "easy", a culture of privilege, over-complicated communication methods.
2. What accommodations do schools make for special-needs kids?
I don't know for sure but I think there are several options, including AISJ and NAIS. One would need to ask very specific questions to get the appropriate information.
3. Are preschools available? Day care? Are these expensive? What has been your experience with them, if any? Do the schools provide before- and/or after-school care?
Widely available and not expensive but culturally pretty different from the US. That's fine but parents should be prepared to adjust their expectations.
4. Are local sports classes and/or activities available for kids?
Tons - this is THE PLACE to be a kid (except the crime but we hope the kids don't worry like the adults have to!) Rock climbing, horse riding, all manner of sports, everything. South Africa is a pretty outdoorsy place and there are many special and recurring activities, courses, clubs, etc.
Expat Life:
1. What is the relative size of the expatriate community? How would you describe overall morale among expatriates?
Extremely large. Morale is okay in general (poor to awful at work but that's another issue) and the crime situation is a real drag for everyone. This is compensated for by the amazing variety of travel opportunities, great weather, superb wine and food, and overall recreational activities, all of which come at a great value due to the exchange rate.
2. What are some typical ways to socialize, either with local people or with other expatriates? Are there groups or clubs that you can recommend?
Braais, restaurant meet-ups, weekend trips with friends, hiking excursions right in/near town, movie nights, the community center. Endless, really.
3. Is this a good city for single people? For couples? For families? Why or why not?
With good security awareness, this place is ideal for families and couples, but unfortunately I think that is a little more challenging for single people. No nightlife at all.
4. Is this a good city for LGBT expatriates? Why or why not?
Yes; South Africa offers refugee status to people from neighboring countries on the basis of prosecution for sexual preference.
5. Is it easy to make friends with locals here? Are there any prejudices or any ethnic groups who might feel uncomfortable here?
This is another hard part of SA. While people are often fairly friendly, for many reasons, people are also extremely skeptical of foreigners/outsiders. Without language as a barrier it should be much easier to make local friends but it is not. Hospitality is not part of the culture here, as far as we can tell. Like many people I came here on vacation prior to my assignment and very much enjoyed fabulous safaris and winery visits; those industries have worked to build basic customer service and hospitality components, but in daily life you do not live in that world. Prejudice runs rampant and people of color experience it daily.
6. Are there problems with ethnic, race/racial minorities or religious prejudices? Gender equality?
Systematic discrimination ended barely a generation ago and as such there are lots of lingering issues. Think the end of Jim Crow-era America - the laws may have changed but did the culture? There seem to be justifiable hard feelings and reconciliation and integration are yet incomplete.
7. What have been the highlights of your time in this country? Best trips or experiences?
Traveling, hiking, wine, food - all of the reasons one might expect. South Africans love their national parks just as much as Americans do, and the parks are absolutely a highlight of any time here.
8. What are some interesting/fun things to do in the area? Can you recommend any “hidden gems"?
Pretoria is about four hours from Kruger National Park, and there are innumerable other options in between. It can cost as little as US $100 for a round trip plane ticket to Cape Town. The Garden Route is a short flight away and not to be missed. You can even go on an evening game drive 15 minutes from Pretoria and see all kinds of birds and animals, and be home in time for dinner. Photographers and birders are especially happy here. It is hard to fit all of the cool things to do into a three year assignment. You can drive to Botswana, Mozambique, Lesotho,and eSwatini very easily.
9. Is this a "shopping post"? Are there interesting handicrafts, artwork, antiques, or other items that people typically buy there?
Surprisingly, no it is not a shopping post. There are some arts and crafts around but not a vast or particularly impressive selection at all. You can, however, buy the most amazing camping and outdoor gear here. Clothes, shoes, furniture, housewares are all easily available and good quality/selection. If you are looking for art and stuff...not so much.
10. What are the particular advantages of living in this city?
Proximity to wildlife parks and reserves. Recreational opportunities abound. It is a small-ish city with a really laid-back suburban feel, apart from the crime issue. It is not fast paced.
Words of Wisdom:
1. What do you wish you had known about this particular city/country before moving there?
How much the crime threat would stress us out. How much bureaucracy surrounds even doing the simplest things.
2. Knowing what you know now, would you still move to this city?
Yes but I would manage my expectations about overall friendliness of the locals, work satisfaction, and efficiency. Things should be easy here but often they are not.
3. If you move here, you can leave behind your:
Camping gear - get it here.
Car - no left hand drive vehicles allowed.
4. But don't forget your:
Art.
Hiking poles.
FACT training.
5. Do you recommend any books or movies about this city/country for those who are interested in learning more?
Long Walk to Freedom
The Power of One
6. Do you have any other comments?
December is the peak of summer here and the holidays are prime time for local travel, which drives up prices by about 200%. For Christmas, for example, lodges, hotels, and camp sites book up by about May. June-August, when kids at AISJ are on break, is a much better time for travel in-country even if it is cooler weather. Plan accordingly and have a lower-cost, less-crowded trip.
