Pretoria, South Africa Report of what it's like to live there - 04/02/23
Personal Experiences from Pretoria, South Africa
Background:
1. Was this post your first expatriate experience? If not, what other cities have you lived in as an expat?
Other than a summer in London, yes.
2. What is your home city/country? How long is the trip to post from there, with what connections? How easy/difficult is it to travel to this city/country?
Virginia, USA. It's far, but easier than many other places in Africa. Direct flights to Atlanta or Newark, but even those are 16 hours. Plenty of options to connect through Europe or the Middle East as well.
3. How long have you lived here?
A bit over three years.
4. What years did you live here?
2019-2022.
5. What brought you to this city (e.g. diplomatic mission, business, NGO, military, teaching, retirement, etc.)?
Diplomatic mission.
Housing, Groceries & Food:
1. What is your housing like? What are typical housing sizes, locations, and commute times for expatriates?
I was a contractor so we weren't in embassy housing and found our own housing on the local market. There is a variety from small, budget one bedroom apartments to enormous mansions with pools, tennis courts etc. I was in a compound with locals with a guard that was 24/7. I had a fully furnished (including linens and kitchen stuff) place that was 2 floors, 2 bed, 2.5 bath with small outdoor space. I lived about 3km from work. It took about 15 min in uber and 30 if I biked which I often did.
2. How would you describe the availability and cost of groceries and household supplies relative to your home country?
Very good. Groceries are very cheap compared to the US. Certain things such as imported goods can be on the more expensive side, but the exchange rate is really good so the price is still less than the US. Wine is AMAZING and so affordable.
3. What household or grocery items do you wish you had shipped to post?
Not much. Good Mexican food is hard to find as is Vietnamese.
4. What typical restaurants, food delivery services, and/or takeout options are popular among expatriates?
There is uber eats and another local option. There is good Indian, Korean. There are several restaurants that do fixed courses with wine pairings and it's usually not more than $40.
5. Are there any unusual problems with insects or other infestations in housing?
Sometimes people get ants, but nothing major.
Daily Life:
1. How do you send and receive your letters and package mail? Are local postal facilities adequate?
I don't. I wouldn't use the local mail it's very unreliable. In-country courrier services are very good for local deliveries or DHL for overseas.
2. What is the availability and cost of household help, and what types of help are typically employed by expatriates?
It's very cheap because the supply far outstrips the demand. I had a weekly maid that was included in my rent, but I think my landlord paid her around $20/day which seems to be the going rate. Many people hire nannies and gardners as well and sometimes have them live in. It depends on what your needs are. Get a recommendation for household help if you can. Mine was fantastic, but quality can vary. Also, explain what you want.
3. What kinds of gyms or other sports/workout facilities are available? Are they expensive?
Most gyms are around $50/month I think. Virgin and Planet Fitness are the big ones. There is one super fancy Virgin gym that is the nicest gym I've ever seen, but like $200/month. There's a sauna, work space, spin studio, outside workout area etc though. It's very high end.
4. Are credit cards widely accepted and safe to use locally? Are ATMs common and do you recommend using them? Are they safe to use?
Yes, also Apple/Google pay. There may be a vendor or two at a market that won't take card, but it's usually not an issue. ATMs are everywhere, but you need to be careful. Use the ones on embassy property if you can. Avoid ones at the airports and malls, as I've heard that people have been robbed at them.
5. What English-language religious services are available locally?
Probably all.
6. How much of the local language do you need for daily living? Are local language classes/tutors available and affordable?
It's not necessary. Not sure about language classes. There were not any offered by the embassy.
7. Would someone with physical disabilities have difficulties living in this city?
Yes, though a local embassy staff (now retired) is starting a transport for people in wheelchairs. Sidewalks are uneven and it would be challenging.
Transportation:
1. Are local buses, trams, trains or taxis safe and affordable?
There is gautrain that goes Pretoria-joberg-airport which is safe, affordable and efficient. There has been violence between taxi drivers and uber at gautrain stations so I'd get dropped a few blocks away. Uber and bolt are both easy to use and cheap. Local taxis aren't recommended because they are very bad drivers and often get in accidents. I walked a lot of places during the day, but most people don't and most SAs are horrified by this. It's not something they do.
2. What kind of vehicle(s) including electric ones do you recommend bringing to post, given the terrain, infrastructure, availability of parts, burglary/carjacking risks, etc.? What kind of car or vehicles do you advise not to bring?
Everyone in the embassy I know buys a car here. You can't ship from the US. I'm not sure about UK. Cars are around 30% more here than US. There are advertisements in embassy newsletter by those selling or you can buy from a local dealership or somewhere like webuycars. If you want to go on safari it might be good to have 4x4 but not necessary for city commuting.
Phone & Internet:
1. Is high-speed home Internet access available? How long does it typically take to install it after arrival?
Yes, my internet was included in my rent and already installed. I've heard it can be a long process if not setup.
2. Do you have any recommendations regarding mobile phones? Did you keep your home-country plan or use a local provider?
My office gave me a phone with a lot of data (20g) so I just tethered to my personal phone if needed and used my work number if I needed a local number for dr offices etc. I also kept google fi so I could get opt texts. Data and phone plans are relatively inexpensive though unless you use a ton of data/want unlimited.
Pets:
1. Are qualified veterinarians and/or good kennel services available? Do animals need to be quarantined upon entry to the country? Are there other considerations regarding pets that are particular to this country?
I'm not sure about coming in, but getting dogs to the US while now allowed is costly and time consuming. I think around $6K all told and can take months because there are tests that need to be done that you have to ship results to EU for them to run. I strongly recommend talking to someone who brought a pet before doing so. I know a few people who chose not to.
Employment & Volunteer Opportunities:
1. What types of jobs do most expatriate spouses/partners have? Locally based or telecommuting? Full-time or part-time? Can you comment on local salary scales?
There are EFM posts. Many are lower level/administrative, but not all. It depends on your skills. Unemployment is SA is super high, around 40% I think so finding something externally will be hard.
2. What is the typical dress code at work and in public places? Is formal dress ever required?
Formal dress rarely maybe only for the marine ball. Business casual for work. SAs tend to dress up more than Americans. However, post-COVID I've noticed the overall dress in the office is MUCH more casual. I've seen people in jeans and sneakers...
Health & Safety:
1. Are there personal security concerns to be aware of at this post? Please describe.
Yes, crime is real here and has gotten a lot worse since COVID. After three years here I personally know someone who has had about everything happen except for very violence crime (murder, rape). Embassy housing has a lot of locks and fencing. Even outside of that in my compound, there is 24/7 guard, electric fencing, I have an alarm. It's an unfortunate reality of living here. Stand-alone embassy housing do not have permanent guards (they roam), but the compounds do.
It's important to talk to people who have been here for some time before doing things. There has been crime on some hiking trails near Pretoria even during the day. You need to be careful driving to know you aren't going through townships, what the parking is like and if it is safe etc.
2. Are there any particular health concerns? What is the quality of available medical care? What medical conditions typically require medical evacuation?
HIV rate is very high which you just need to be aware of. Medical care is very high quality and comparable to the US except way cheaper. This is a medavac destination. People have babies here, get surgery etc.
3. What is the air quality like at post (good/moderate/bad)? Are there seasonal air quality issues? Does the air quality have an impact on health?
Very good. No issues.
4. What do people who suffer from environmental or food allergies need to know?
There are better options here than many other places. Grocery stores have gluten free options.
5. Are there any particular mental health issues that tend to crop up at post, such as Seasonal Affective Disorder (winter blues)?
Not really.
6. What is the overall climate: is it extremely hot or cold, wet or dry, at any time of year, for example?
Winter can be colder than people expect; it gets down to freezing and houses aren't insulated and have stone so get quite cold plus most don't have central heat (or ac). It can get hot in the summer into the 90s F. Winter is also super dry as it doesn't rain so my skin got very dry.
Schools & Children:
1. What is the availability of international schools? What has been your general experience with them, if any?
I think they are good. Many go to the American school, but I know one person who sent her kids to the French school.
2. What accommodations do schools make for special-needs kids?
Not sure, but I'd think there are options.
3. Are preschools available? Day care? Are these expensive? What has been your experience with them, if any? Do the schools provide before- and/or after-school care?
Yes, not sure.
4. Are local sports classes and/or activities available for kids?
Yes, not sure of specifics.
Expat Life:
1. What is the relative size of the expatriate community? How would you describe overall morale among expatriates?
It's a very large post. Morale is moderate. The office can be stressful depending on agency/team and many people find the security situation stressful.
2. What are some typical ways to socialize, either with local people or with other expatriates? Are there groups or clubs that you can recommend?
The Community Liaison Office (CLO) is doing a ton of events which is great. They offer a variety of things: dinner club, hiking trips, education seminars. It's nice. You have to make an effort to meet others, but I met my closest friend through a CLO event. Meeting locals is hard. There is a large socioeconomic divide and SAs are a bit standoffish.
3. Is this a good city for single people? For couples? For families? Why or why not?
I think it's great for everyone depending on what you want. There are lots of easy day and weekend trips nearby. There are a fair number of singles here to do things with.
4. Is it easy to make friends with locals here? Are there any prejudices or any ethnic groups who might feel uncomfortable here?
Not really. There's a large economic divide and many are a bit standoffish. It is very racially segregated. The embassy neighborhoods are largely Afrikans and some of them are very prejudice against anyone who is not white. As an Asian-American I've had more racial issues here (mostly micro aggressions) than in the US.
5. Is this a good city for LGBT expatriates? Why or why not?
Yes, it is much more welcoming than other places on the continent. I went to Pride in 2019 which was a ton of fun.
6. Are there problems with ethnic, race/racial minorities or religious prejudices? Gender equality?
Yes, it's very segregated by race which is also economic due to the legacy of apartheid. I can see the effects of apartheid everyday in my life. Nearly all workers are black and managers are white. Domestic staff are black. People are shocked when I say that my mom's housekeeper in the US is white. It's just not a job white South Africans do.
Gender equality is bad. Gender based violence is a huge issue. The government is trying to put in place programs to help, but I think it will take a long time to see real change.
7. What have been the highlights of your time in this country? Best trips or experiences?
The country is beautiful and diverse. There is so much to see! Many safari parks nearby which can be done budget friendly or not. CapeTown and winelands are amazing. There is excellent hiking including drakensburg. The garden route is lovely. One of my favs was St Lucia (north of Durban). There is a safari park, beach, hippo tour and hippos often come out and walk around in the town at night!
Moz, Eswatini, Lesotho, Namibia are also great options.
8. What are some interesting/fun things to do in the area? Can you recommend any “hidden gems"?
See above.
9. Is this a "shopping post"? Are there interesting handicrafts, artwork, antiques, or other items that people typically buy there?
There are some handicrafts at markets, art, you can get dresses sewn. A lot of people also take wine if they can which I absolutely recommend.
10. What are the particular advantages of living in this city?
Good weather, enough to do, close weekend trips, very affordable cost of living.
Words of Wisdom:
1. What do you wish you had known about this particular city/country before moving there?
That it's kind of suburban and that I really need a car to get around.
2. Knowing what you know now, would you still move to this city?
Yes.
3. If you move here, you can leave behind your:
Formal wear.
4. But don't forget your:
warm clothes.
5. Do you have any other comments?
Overall, this wasn't as easy a post as I anticipated, but I'm really glad I got to be here and in the end was heartbroken to be leaving after three years. I made some amazing friends here that I hope end up in the same place again.
