Pretoria, South Africa Report of what it's like to live there - 12/08/09
Personal Experiences from Pretoria, South Africa
Background:
1. Was this post your first expatriate experience? If not, what other cities have you lived in as an expat?
2nd expat experience.
2. What is your home city/country? How long is the trip to post from there, with what connections? How easy/difficult is it to travel to this city/country?
Maryland, 15 hours through Frankfurt.
3. How long have you lived here?
1 year.
4. What brought you to this city (e.g. diplomatic mission, business, NGO, military, teaching, retirement, etc.)?
Associated with the US Embassy.
Housing, Groceries & Food:
1. What is your housing like? What are typical housing sizes, locations, and commute times for expatriates?
Suburban housing mostly for embassy personnel now tending to be compound. Compounds have 3-6 houses, with electric fence and a 24hr guard. The guards really help to deter criminals.
2. How would you describe the availability and cost of groceries and household supplies relative to your home country?
Everything is pretty much available with the exception of a few things like Mexican food.
3. What household or grocery items do you wish you had shipped to post?
Salsa.
4. What typical restaurants, food delivery services, and/or takeout options are popular among expatriates?
Lots, from McDonald's and KFC, to Cinnabuns, all a bit cheaper than the US. I wouldn't eat at a fast-food joint though. There is so much good food for $10-20. Lunch-time special: 500g T-bone with fries and beer for $7.50.
5. Are there any unusual problems with insects or other infestations in housing?
Some flies, nothing much else.
Daily Life:
1. How do you send and receive your letters and package mail? Are local postal facilities adequate?
Pouch is very limited outgoing (VHS tape).
2. What is the availability and cost of household help, and what types of help are typically employed by expatriates?
Pretty inexpensive, around 100R a day for a non-live-in.
3. What kinds of gyms or other sports/workout facilities are available? Are they expensive?
Yes, very many, very well equipped, a bit cheaper than in the US.
4. Are credit cards widely accepted and safe to use locally? Are ATMs common and do you recommend using them? Are they safe to use?
Available throughout, security is always a concern.
5. What English-language religious services are available locally?
Yes, I think everything is represented.
6. English-language newspapers and TV available? Cost?
Around $40 for 200 channels via DSTV dish. Good movie channels, almost all in English. People spend lots of time at home. newspapers are in english but the content is sub-par.
7. How much of the local language do you need for daily living? Are local language classes/tutors available and affordable?
Not much, everybody speaks English.
8. Would someone with physical disabilities have difficulties living in this city?
Since everything is a drive away, it would depend on your transport. The big malls have handicap access.
Transportation:
1. Are local buses, trams, trains or taxis safe and affordable?
Not safe.
2. What kind of car do you recommend bringing to post, given the terrain, availability of parts, burglary/carjacking risks, etc.? What kind of car do you advise not to bring?
Right-hand only nowadays. A small sedan is sufficient for most things. If you really want to go off-road in your own vehicle, Toyota Landcruisers seem to be the best.
Phone & Internet:
1. Is high-speed home Internet access available? How long does it typically take to install it after arrival?
Expensive, capped for total download and speed. Around $34/month for a slow 5GBs ADSL.
2. Do you have any recommendations regarding mobile phones? Did you keep your home-country plan or use a local provider?
Cheap options, prepaid or with a plan.
Pets:
1. Are qualified veterinarians and/or good kennel services available? Do animals need to be quarantined upon entry to the country? Are there other considerations regarding pets that are particular to this country?
2. Quality pet care available (vets & kennels)?
Yes, very good, very inexpensive. Pets also help with feeling safer at home.
Employment & Volunteer Opportunities:
1. What types of jobs do most expatriate spouses/partners have? Locally based or telecommuting? Full-time or part-time? Can you comment on local salary scales?
There are some opportunities in aid organizations.
2. What is the typical dress code at work and in public places? Is formal dress ever required?
Semi-formal at work, relaxed in public.
Health & Safety:
1. Pollution index (Good, Moderate, Unhealthy, or Very Unhealthy)?
Very healthy in general.
2. Are there personal security concerns to be aware of at this post? Please describe.
Always a concern, day-to-day patterns change, people should be alert (on edge) all the time. The security concerns make it a drive-around city, with few places to walk around (the mall, botanical garden, etc.). One can also walk around the safer neighborhoods in early morning and evening. If you are somewhat alert all the time, and observe all the security precautions, you should be fine.
3. Are there any particular health concerns? What is the quality of available medical care? What medical conditions typically require medical evacuation?
Health care is very good, very inexpensive. AIDS affects at least 25% of the population, so it's a very big problem. Unprotected sex is out of the question.
4. What is the overall climate: is it extremely hot or cold, wet or dry, at any time of year, for example?
Perfect weather, dry, almost always t-shirt weather. Winters require a sweater.
Schools & Children:
1. What is the availability of international schools? What has been your general experience with them, if any?
I don't have any experience with the schools but I heard they were pretty adequate.
2. What accommodations do schools make for special-needs kids?
3. Are preschools available? Day care? Are these expensive? What has been your experience with them, if any? Do the schools provide before- and/or after-school care?
4. Are local sports classes and/or activities available for kids?
Expat Life:
1. What is the relative size of the expatriate community? How would you describe overall morale among expatriates?
Large, lots of diplomatic missions.
2. Morale among expats:
Medium to low.
3. What are some typical ways to socialize, either with local people or with other expatriates? Are there groups or clubs that you can recommend?
Lots of braais (barbecues), going out for dinner, movies, mall-related activities, some bars. For good nightlife, people go to Johannesburg or Cape Town for the weekend.
4. Is this a good city for single people? For couples? For families? Why or why not?
Better for families than singles. Much of life happens inside the home or at the mall. There are some clubs, but nothing great. For the good nightlife people go to Johannesburg. A lot more variety there, and people tend to be more friendly. The drive is a pain though, and dangerous at night because of all the drunk drivers.
5. Is this a good city for LGBT expatriates? Why or why not?
I think there are limited options. Johannesburg offers a lot more options.
6. Are there problems with ethnic, race/racial minorities or religious prejudices? Gender equality?
Yes, lots under the surface. The city is the Afrikaans stronghold of the country so it tends to be more segregated. There aren't many straight-forward examples of racism, but the feeling is always there. Not many interracial couples.
7. What are some interesting/fun things to do in the area? Can you recommend any “hidden gems"?
Safaris, lots of stunning, unique outdoor destinations, Cape Town, Namibia. Touristic areas are very well managed, relatively inexpensive and really impressive. Most parks are accessible via sedan, 4X4 are also useful. The food is amazing, and still pretty cheap.
8. Is this a "shopping post"? Are there interesting handicrafts, artwork, antiques, or other items that people typically buy there?
Lots of trinkets from all over Africa at the Rosebank mall.
9. Can you save money?
Yes. Eating in is almost as expensive as eating out.
Words of Wisdom:
1. Knowing what you know now, would you still move to this city?
Yes, it takes a bit to get used to the security situation, but once you're at peace with that and you travel outside Pretoria, it's totally worth it.
2. If you move here, you can leave behind your:
Heavy coat.
3. But don't forget your:
A1 steak sauce. Outdoor equipment (though it is cheap to buy here).
4. Do you recommend any books or movies about this city/country for those who are interested in learning more?
5. Recommended movies/DVDs related to this city:
Lethal Weapon 2 :)
6. Do you have any other comments?
Pretoria can be a bit harder for a single person, but if you get out enough you will find some interesting spots.
