Geneva, Switzerland Report of what it's like to live there - 02/17/12
Personal Experiences from Geneva, Switzerland
Background:
1. Was this post your first expatriate experience? If not, what other cities have you lived in as an expat?
We have lived in Lithuania, Bulgaria, Dhaka, Frankfurt and Moscow.
2. What is your home city/country? How long is the trip to post from there, with what connections? How easy/difficult is it to travel to this city/country?
Washington DC to Geneva is about a 7 hour flight.
3. How long have you lived here?
Since August 2011.
4. What brought you to this city (e.g. diplomatic mission, business, NGO, military, teaching, retirement, etc.)?
My husband and I work at the US Mission.
Housing, Groceries & Food:
1. What is your housing like? What are typical housing sizes, locations, and commute times for expatriates?
The full range -- we are in a house in the countryside quite near to Geneva. It's nice. Many have apartments in town.
2. How would you describe the availability and cost of groceries and household supplies relative to your home country?
Expensive in Switzerland. At least double your US bill. Seriously. At least double. But in France it's reasonable. I go there most of the time. Maybe in France it's just 25% more than your US bill would be. But if you are USG, you get a very good COLA. You just have to keep reminding yourself of that!
3. What household or grocery items do you wish you had shipped to post?
To save money, if you have room in your shipment, you might send dry things. But you can get anything you want here. I always bring maple syrup with me everywhere I go. But that's just me.
4. What typical restaurants, food delivery services, and/or takeout options are popular among expatriates?
Food. Ah, the food. Amazing food. Fast food, though? OMG, why in heaven's name would you want fast food when you are in Switzerlan and a few steps away from France and a short drive to Italy??? But okay, if you must, there are McDonald's here too. Expensive. Very expensive. One full meal is about $14-16.
5. What kinds of organic, vegetarian and allergy-friendly foods are available, such as organic produce, gluten-free products, meat substitutes for vegetarians, etc?
Great, fresh, organic food everywhere you go. The full range of all food options. Better than anywhere I have ever lived in America, without a doubt. If your standard is American, then you will be very pleasantly surprised! They put us to shame.
6. Are there any unusual problems with insects or other infestations in housing?
Mosquitoes. And I oddly had a bee problem in my house, but that can happen anywhere.
Daily Life:
1. How do you send and receive your letters and package mail? Are local postal facilities adequate?
I use DPO and the pouch. It's slow. Like everywhere.
2. What is the availability and cost of household help, and what types of help are typically employed by expatriates?
Available and very, very expensive.
3. What kinds of gyms or other sports/workout facilities are available? Are they expensive?
Yup. One at the US Mission for USG expats. But it's oddly expensive even here.
4. Are credit cards widely accepted and safe to use locally? Are ATMs common and do you recommend using them? Are they safe to use?
it's all fine. You can use it all.
5. What English-language religious services are available locally?
Don't know. I assume whatever you'd want would be here.
6. English-language newspapers and TV available? Cost?
I have cable. It's okay.
7. How much of the local language do you need for daily living? Are local language classes/tutors available and affordable?
Enough to shop and be polite.
8. Would someone with physical disabilities have difficulties living in this city?
It's an old city. Not very navigable if you have mobility issues.
Transportation:
1. Are local buses, trams, trains or taxis safe and affordable?
Expensive, but safe. And if you live in the country, they don't come very often. You really need a car. It would be extremely inefficient to take public transport, and not much cost savings. We feel we need two cars because we both work and we have two teenagers.
2. What kind of car do you recommend bringing to post, given the terrain, availability of parts, burglary/carjacking risks, etc.? What kind of car do you advise not to bring?
Any kind. But small parking spaces. I find it difficult to park our van in underground parking lots. It barely gets through the place where you take your entrance ticket and the arm goes up to let you through. But we have another car, a normal Volvo sedan, and that's mostly fine. The smaller the better though, if you plan to park in city areas a lot.
Phone & Internet:
1. Is high-speed home Internet access available? How long does it typically take to install it after arrival?
Yes. I don't know the cost though.
2. Do you have any recommendations regarding mobile phones? Did you keep your home-country plan or use a local provider?
You can get them here, like in any European city. The normal sort of thing on that subject.
Pets:
1. Are qualified veterinarians and/or good kennel services available? Do animals need to be quarantined upon entry to the country? Are there other considerations regarding pets that are particular to this country?
No.
2. Quality pet care available (vets & kennels)?
I have a vet I like a lot. I've never kenneled my cat, so I can't say, but a friend with a dog likes the kennel she uses. It's just very expensive, as with everything.
Employment & Volunteer Opportunities:
1. What types of jobs do most expatriate spouses/partners have? Locally based or telecommuting? Full-time or part-time? Can you comment on local salary scales?
Not really, unless you speak fluent French. Not many US Mission jobs for EFMs and what's here isn't extremely high level, but there are a few that are excellent. There are some professional associates jobs (maybe 3 at the moment?). You'd think you could find something at the UN or other international organization here, but people say they have no luck finding anything there. It is a very closed system that's hard to break into. If you aren't fluent in French, don't even bother to try, I'm told.
2. What is the typical dress code at work and in public places? Is formal dress ever required?
Normal for Europe.
Health & Safety:
1. Are there personal security concerns to be aware of at this post? Please describe.
Yes. There was an armed robbery in my little village at the town post office/bank. The robbers escaped by car, parked in the woods about the distance of two streets away, and then burned their getaway car. Quite a crime for a sleepy little Swiss village on the outskirts of Geneva! I'm told that crime is on the rise. Especially the sort that involves opportunity and an easy getaway in which home owners in summer leave a French door to the patio open, or leave their front doors unlocked, and a robber comes in very quickly while no one is in that room, grabs a purse, cell phone, wallet, then leaves. The fines for this kind of crime, even if caught, are very low, and no one ever goes to jail for it as long as no one was hurt and there was no physical threat. For this same reason, pick pocketing is epidemic. No jail time for it. Just a small fine, if the person is even employed. Then they are back on the street to do it again.
2. Are there any particular health concerns? What is the quality of available medical care? What medical conditions typically require medical evacuation?
Ecellent care. The health unit at the mission has no doctor, but you just find a Swiss doctor and it's no problem. Don't expect post services, and you'll be fine.
3. What is the air quality like at post (good/moderate/bad)? Are there seasonal air quality issues? Does the air quality have an impact on health?
Very good.
4. What is the overall climate: is it extremely hot or cold, wet or dry, at any time of year, for example?
Perfect, in a four seasons sense. I haven't seen spring yet, but Autumn was warm and up until late October felt like a mild New England summer. Winter has been snowy and pretty and nice. Hovers at freezing for the most part, or slightly higher. Some cold snaps, but they rarely last for very long. It's really great weather.
Schools & Children:
1. What is the availability of international schools? What has been your general experience with them, if any?
My kids go to Collège du Léman (CDL) and we don't like it. Many Americans send their kids to one of the International School of Geneva (ISG) campuses and I also hear many complaints from them. The teachers are disengaged and seem not to care at all, the school won't really back you up, no after-school sports or activities to speak of and the expectation is you'll find sports in your town, in the club sports places for kids, but if your kid doesn't speak French, then good luck with that. No teacher-to-parent communication. My kid was failing a class, but I didn't even know till I got the report card and it was too late to do anything about it! He's in high school. These grades matter. I could have gotten him a tutor. My daughter says the teachers are very strict. Not the friendly high fives in the halls she'd get from teachers at previous posts, where they know the kids, talk to them, coach their teams and so on. This is very much a "come to school, go to class, listen to the teacher talk, then go home and do a lot of homework" kind of place. No sense of community or family ... Lots of problems with the schools.
2. What accommodations do schools make for special-needs kids?
Not much. Really.
3. Are preschools available? Day care? Are these expensive? What has been your experience with them, if any? Do the schools provide before- and/or after-school care?
I don't have experience with that. But if you have pre-kindergarten children, check the prices before you come! I hear it's astoundingly expensive, so many families who would like to have the non-working spouse find work when they arrive at post, find they can't afford it as day care costs far more than the salary the person could ever earn. And spaces are hard to get on top of it all. There is a LOT of complaining about preschool care options, availability and cost at this post. LOTS. Be diligent before accepting this posting.
4. Are local sports classes and/or activities available for kids?
Not at school. But if your child speaks French, you can find a local team easily. My kids do not speak French, so there is almost nothing for them. It's a big problem. Very bad. And it was so unexpected too! I figured it would be fine here. It's not. But that's mostly because I'm used to the schools providing those opportunities, and the international schools here simply do not.
Expat Life:
1. What is the relative size of the expatriate community? How would you describe overall morale among expatriates?
Extremely large. The largest in the world, perhaps. They say 40% of the population in Geneva is expats. I believe it.
2. Morale among expats:
Fair. No sense of community, but what an amazing place! You just have to be self-sufficient. And if you don't have kids in school, I imagine your morale would be very, very high. That's our only stressor.
3. What are some typical ways to socialize, either with local people or with other expatriates? Are there groups or clubs that you can recommend?
Absolutely!
4. Is this a good city for single people? For couples? For families? Why or why not?
Absolultely. Great city for all. Just expensive.
5. Is this a good city for LGBT expatriates? Why or why not?
I imagine it would be fine.
6. Are there problems with ethnic, race/racial minorities or religious prejudices? Gender equality?
Very traditional women's roles in this country. It would be quaint if it were not from time to time offensive. They think it's funny. I don't. But it's not a big deal.
7. What have been the highlights of your time in this country? Best trips or experiences?
Traveling, the bucolic day to day life, the fresh produce that is stunning.
8. What are some interesting/fun things to do in the area? Can you recommend any “hidden gems"?
Oh, so very much! I can't even list it. Sports of all kinds for the family. Skiing, of course. Hiking, golf, tennis, etc. Not a lot of water-park, fun-park kind of things that I've seen, but my kids are older. I think you just go hike!
9. Is this a "shopping post"? Are there interesting handicrafts, artwork, antiques, or other items that people typically buy there?
Cheese!
10. What are the particular advantages of living in this city?
Nature is astounding, of course. I can see Mont Blanc from my patio as we eat barbecue or play croquet on the lawn. Idyllic! I am surrounded by farmer's fields, but am a 15 minute drive to work in Geneva (with no traffic - but max a half hour with some morning traffic). I live near the border to France, so I shop in France for the most part as it's very nice, of course, but also half the price! There is a great outdoor market on Sundays all year. I drove to Genova, Italy a few weeks ago. It was a 4 hour drive plus a bit. Drove through the Alps. It was gorgeous. The drive was as nice as the visit to Italy. Easy 1 1/2 hour drive to Lyon, the gastronomic capital of France. We go to Germany for a amusement part there that we like to bring the kids to, and that's about 3 1/2 hours to drive to. Easy. Geneva itself is a small, navigable city. Smaller than I'd like, but nice.
11. Can you save money?
Nope.
Words of Wisdom:
1. Knowing what you know now, would you still move to this city?
Yes, if I didn't have kids in school.
2. If you move here, you can leave behind your:
Expectations of finding work here if you are a trailing spouse. Or finding affordable preschool care if you have young kids. But if you don't come here expecting it, and just come to enjoy it, you'll have a very good time!
3. But don't forget your:
Money. You'll need it all!
4. Do you recommend any books or movies about this city/country for those who are interested in learning more?
5. Recommended movies/DVDs related to this city:
6. Do you have any other comments?
I love it here. But for those pesky schools. I just love it!
