Geneva, Switzerland Report of what it's like to live there - 07/25/09
Personal Experiences from Geneva, Switzerland
Background:
1. Was this post your first expatriate experience? If not, what other cities have you lived in as an expat?
Yes, first international move.
2. How long have you lived here?
Completed half of a 2-year assignment.
3. Travel time and best routes to this city from Europe or the US:
United Airlines direct flight IAD-GVA is the most convient way to/from the States. For comfort, I recommend KLM, though you will have to lay-over in another European country to reach Geneva getting to or coming from the States.
4. What brought you to this city (e.g. diplomatic mission, business, NGO, military, teaching, retirement, etc.)?
Spouse of foreign service employee.
Housing, Groceries & Food:
1. What is your housing like? What are typical housing sizes, locations, and commute times for expatriates?
This is a LQA post, so plan for great flexibility and plenty of rules. It is recommended to make a trip to Geneva ahead of time to find a place to live (about 1 month before arriving); however, if that is not an option, use the internet to scout out places. I had great luck with www.homegate.ch and also www.immostreet.ch Apartment living is in vogue here. You can find houses, but be prepared that part of your financial responsibilty will be the garden maintenance, and the Swiss take that seriously. (Think Home Owner's Association to the extreme.) Most (though not all) single family homes are outside Geneva in the countryside (about 10-30 minute drive, depending on how far out) while apartments are in most cities/villages. The landlords are able to discriminate regarding who their tennant will be, so making a good impression with the real estate agent is a plus. In regards to animals, the landlord cannot say "No," but he can have a weight limit. The housing office will take all the necessary pictures and test things throughout the house to ensure it all works, so when you move out there are not "needless replacement fees." Be aware though, that legalities and politics play a role in leaving your rental property -- you may not find out about fees until the bill arrives. One such example is the cleaning fee when you vacate: if the landlord requires a cleaning company to do the job and issue the certificate, you could be out up to 3000CHF. Most Mission employees live between Geneva and Nyon with a focus around Versoix, Coppet and Mies. Nyon is a 12-minute train ride or 20-30 minute drive north of Geneva. Both the highway and lake road offer good driving, even in snowy weather.
2. How would you describe the availability and cost of groceries and household supplies relative to your home country?
For groceries, most any local store has a very good selection of items. MIGROS is the cheapest grocery store, COOP is probably next, with MANOR being the most costly. Dairy items and fresh bread are all cheaper here than in the States. Produce is pretty expensive (5CHF for 5 apples, 1 head of broccoli for 1.50CFH, 2 nectarines for 2CHF). The meat is expensive, but if you buy cuts that are not as common in CH (for example: brisket, ox tail) the price is better. Also, join the grocery stores so you get the ACTION (sale) prices. I was able to get .32kg of steak for 11.50CHF recently. The real price for non-members is not listed, and you can be shocked at the register. I recommend shopping at the local version of SAMs CLUB or COSTCO called ALIGRO. ALIGRO is great on the common bulk items, TP, paper towels, dry goods, laundry soap, etc. You need a free membership to go; however, all that is required is filling out a form with your address, name and that you want a private card. They mail it to you.
3. What household or grocery items do you wish you had shipped to post?
I shipped items like paper towels, sponges, and small cleaning items; next time I would ship a really good broom and mop, since they are expensive here (70CHF). The American Store in Nyon and Geneva carries a pretty good selection of "home-food products," but plan on shipping Mac & Cheese, your favorite soup mixes, mexican food spices and BBQ kits. Also, if you have sensitive skin, ship your soaps or any skin creams. Cortizone cream is a prescription here.
4. What typical restaurants, food delivery services, and/or takeout options are popular among expatriates?
McDonald's and Burger King are throughout CH; however, the menu is slightly different and smaller. The value meal is around 13CHF at either. The food in Geneva seems very repetitive at most restaurants: filet of perch, rosti, fondu, rochlete, pizza, pasta, and a variety of salads. The menu does not really change much from lunch to dinner, except lunch offers half portions. The average price for two at any restaurant: lunch 50CHF, dinner 100CFH
5. Are there any unusual problems with insects or other infestations in housing?
The mosquitoes here are surprisingly abundant; however, they do not bite often. The only insect problem I have noticed over the summer would be the duck ticks at Lake Geneva. If you swim in the lake, be prepared to shower and towel down immediately. They will bite you IN the water. The winters are cold enough that no bugs survive.
Daily Life:
1. How do you send and receive your letters and package mail? Are local postal facilities adequate?
The US Mission has an address based in Dulles that you may use to get items -- following the pouch rules. The turnaround time from Dulles to Geneva is about 2 weeks. From the mission, you can only mail items the size of a VHS tape. Large packages can be shipped through the local post, but it is a bit expensive, from what I understand.
2. What is the availability and cost of household help, and what types of help are typically employed by expatriates?
I have not hired any help with the cleaning, but it is a "full time job" with the windows open all the time and the tile floors. Talking to other people who have hired help, house cleaning will run about between 70-100CHF an hour, babysitters are about 15CHF an hour, nannies (non-live-in) are about 30CHF an hour. There are always people seeking domestic jobs because the job market is so competitive here. You just have to be prepared to pay for it.
3. What kinds of gyms or other sports/workout facilities are available? Are they expensive?
Geneva offers many gyms and private country clubs. There are two chains in the area which offer many locations you can use with your membership; Harmony and Silhouttes. The average price for the gym is 1000CHF a year. For the country club, I believe it is around 1500-2000CHF. Tennis and squash clubs are also very popular here.
4. Are credit cards widely accepted and safe to use locally? Are ATMs common and do you recommend using them? Are they safe to use?
You can get most big things done with a credit card. However, at most of the smaller stores (bakery, butcher shop, and flower shop) you need the francs. The ATMs have worked fine, but make sure to notify the bank of your moving overseas to ensure no problems.
5. What English-language religious services are available locally?
There are English-speaking churches around. The Swiss cantons are usually either Catholic or Protestant, with Geneva/Vaud cantons being Catholic. I know of a Lutheran, Presbyterian, and non-denominational English services in Geneva.
6. English-language newspapers and TV available? Cost?
I have not seen an english newspaper, but there are two free french papers available each weekday. The cable company SwissCom has an internet, phone and cable package called BlueWin that is great! The package has the highest internet connection speed and also the best selection of TV stations. The cable has over 150 channels with 10 in english all the time, and the other stations have programs that you can select the language on. I highly recommend this package compared to other company's offerings.
7. How much of the local language do you need for daily living? Are local language classes/tutors available and affordable?
You need to have a good grasp of French to set up house and live in this LQA post. The 3 languages of CH are German, French, and Italian; but in Geneva some vendors are even resistant to speaking German/Italian. The frustrating part about Geneva and the surrounding area is that each village has its own style of French. So with a good basic knowledge of France's French, you can figure out what they are talking about. But 20 minutes away they may use another expression for the same situation. This makes learning French at post VERY hard.
8. Would someone with physical disabilities have difficulties living in this city?
Wheelchairs or severe joint problems might limit what you have access to here. The Old Town part of Geneva is full of steep hills and stairs. There might be another path to get to a certain point, but I think it might still be difficult. Many of the old buildings do not have elevators -- or if they have been installed at a later point -- they are extremely small. Those who are visually or hearing impaired might find things more frustrating in regards to the public transportation system. The crosswalks do have a crossing system; however, if this system makes any noise it is at a frequency not easily heard. Most of the trams and buses have a display for the upcoming stop, but the smaller trains do not. For those with physical disabilities, fluent French would be a must.
Transportation:
1. Are local buses, trams, trains or taxis safe and affordable?
As mentioned, the trains/busses/trams are very reliable. The clientele is what you would find at a bus/train stop in the US with perhaps a few more homeless. You can get a demi-tarif card for 150CHF that is valid for one year and provides half off your tickets. A bus ticket is usually 4.50 CHF, so with this card it is 2.20CHF.
2. What kind of car do you recommend bringing to post, given the terrain, availability of parts, burglary/carjacking risks, etc.? What kind of car do you advise not to bring?
The public transportation system works quite well here, and if you are planning on living in Geneva, a car would be almost more hassel than it is worth. If you are planning on living in a surrounding area, then having a car is advisable to provide more fleixibility. The buses only run once an hour in some outlaying areas. For sightseeing and getting to a ski area, the trains do run to many, and also some hotels offer shuttles to and from train stations. I prefer being on my own clock, so I have a 4-wheel drive car, which is VERY advisable for CH. Also, it is law to have chains for your tires in the car during winter, so plan accordingly. The import regulations are pretty strict, and be prepared for costly repairs or upkeep to meet Swiss requirements.
Phone & Internet:
1. Is high-speed home Internet access available? How long does it typically take to install it after arrival?
See above; 120CHF a month for BlueWin.
2. Do you have any recommendations regarding mobile phones? Did you keep your home-country plan or use a local provider?
For cell phones, use the pay-as-you-go plans. The SIM cards can be ordered ahead of time and shipped to you in the US,. Then all you have to do is activate them on arriving in CH. The rates are very good, even on international calls. And you do not have to pay to receive international calls on them. I used LEBARA.
Pets:
1. Are qualified veterinarians and/or good kennel services available? Do animals need to be quarantined upon entry to the country? Are there other considerations regarding pets that are particular to this country?
Just make sure to have the USDA Health Certificate of good health, rabies vac., and tattoo or European micro-chip for ID (which a US vet can special order and activate).
2. Quality pet care available (vets & kennels)?
There is an abundance of vets in the Geneva area and also a good pet supply chain store. Dogs are recognized as part of the family and can eat at a restaurant with you, go inside the mall, and even may ride on the public transport system. Kennels are available; however, there are plently of animal sitters to use also. As with most everything in CH, it is more expensive to have an animal here than in the US.
Employment & Volunteer Opportunities:
1. What types of jobs do most expatriate spouses/partners have? Locally based or telecommuting? Full-time or part-time? Can you comment on local salary scales?
Not really. The standard method of obtaining an interview is to create a CV (similiar to a resume) that contains information about race, language, martial status, etc. and any of these points can be used for discrimination. The qualifications for jobs are a bit over the top (master's degree or doctorate, with 8-15 years experience required). The language barrier for those who do not speak French will prevent most interviews from taking place. With this said, those who can tele-commute to their job back in the States will find the all the needed computer and phone connections here. Self-employment in CH is a long paperwork battle in French, but it may be possible; just be prepared.
2. What is the typical dress code at work and in public places? Is formal dress ever required?
Overall, day-to-day life requires a bit nicer dress code than that of the US. Women will wear pants (or designer jeans) with a nice sweater and heeled boots to the grocery store during the winter. Summer is slightly more casual, with a lot of women wearing dresses. Men wear suites to work and slacks in the evenings.
Health & Safety:
1. Pollution index (Good, Moderate, Unhealthy, or Very Unhealthy)?
No pollution. The hardest part for this non-smoker was all the smoking inside common places, (i.e., the grocery store, shopping centers, and "indoor malls").
2. What immunizations are required each year?
I have not seen that adults need any yearly shots other than those you would get in the States.
3. Are there personal security concerns to be aware of at this post? Please describe.
Geneva has a decent amount of protests; however, they stay in control. Watch out for the gypsies and pickpockets around the train and bus stations. It is Switzerland, but still, always lock all doors and windows in your house if you will be away. Trespassing is apparently accepted here, so using appropriate caution is wise.
4. Are there any particular health concerns? What is the quality of available medical care? What medical conditions typically require medical evacuation?
I have not had any direct interaction with the local medical community except in social settings. I would recommend checking the creditials of a health professional before going. I would not plan to have any big surgery or life event (childbirth) happen here.
5. What is the overall climate: is it extremely hot or cold, wet or dry, at any time of year, for example?
Spring and summer are lovely! The weather is so perfect, many times there are two harvesting seasons here for fruits and vegetables. The humidity during the summer can be a little high at times, but usually a rainstorm will take care of that. The weather turns cooler and cloudy starting mid-September and becomes progressively colder and "darker" until February. The snow this past winter was the best in over a decade. The tempuratures range from -4 C in the dead of winter to around 25-30 C in the summer.
Schools & Children:
1. What is the availability of international schools? What has been your general experience with them, if any?
2. What accommodations do schools make for special-needs kids?
3. Are preschools available? Day care? Are these expensive? What has been your experience with them, if any? Do the schools provide before- and/or after-school care?
4. Are local sports classes and/or activities available for kids?
I have seen soccer and snow sports for kids.
Expat Life:
1. What is the relative size of the expatriate community? How would you describe overall morale among expatriates?
Geneva seems to be the melting pot of CH.There are many people here from the UK, Austrailia, and from other European countries. Most of the expat community is shifting constantly, due to TDYs and 2-3 year assignments; about one-third of the popluation in this area is expat, though not all English.
2. Morale among expats:
For the English-speaking expats who are not coming to a job, there is a level of frustration in lack of things to do. Finding a job in the local economy is extremely competitive, and most activities seem to take place in the evening hours, not during the afternoons. Also, I have heard from many that the turn-around time for people coming and going seems very short here, perhaps due to UN TDYs. At the Mission, the morale needs a bit of a boost.
3. What are some typical ways to socialize, either with local people or with other expatriates? Are there groups or clubs that you can recommend?
There are malls, movies, and restaurants all around. The shops all close no later than 6:30pm and are not open at all on Sundays. Sundays are the day to rest and socialize with friends and family. The movies can be seen in English (version original = v.o.) and tickets are 18 CHF per person. Dining out is quite an experience. The table is literally yours for the next 2-3 hours. Service is usually friendly, though it takes quite a while. There is no rush to anything about dining out, so I would not recommend it for families in need of a quick bite. The US Mission/Marine activities in Geneva are not a valid way to fill the social calendar, so networking is vital.
4. Is this a good city for single people? For couples? For families? Why or why not?
Overall, I would say that anyone can find their place here; however, you need fluent French to make connections easily and to find some activites. While there are some locations that offer more English activites, having even some broken French is better than none. While I do not have children, the women I know who do seem to have more interactions with others who speak English due to the children's activities. For singles and couples who enjoy the nightlife scene, there are English groups that plan outings. However, for just an average night out I recommend having French.
5. Is this a good city for LGBT expatriates? Why or why not?
The only things I can say for sure are: -July 4th features a huge festival in downtown Geneva. Zurich also has a huge festival in August. The wig shops in the Old Town part of Geneva are not there just for the women!
6. Are there problems with ethnic, race/racial minorities or religious prejudices? Gender equality?
I have noticed when I am doing errands that many vendors/sales people, who speak English, will pretend to speak only French. The attitude that English is something they wish to not be hassled with is clear in some places. I have heard and experienced many stories of not getting anywhere with someone in English, only to have them speak perfect English the next time.
7. What are some interesting/fun things to do in the area? Can you recommend any “hidden gems"?
Geneva and the surrounding villages have a lot to offer during the nice-weather months. Boat tours on Lake Geneva, hiking, mountain biking, sailing, wind-surfing, roller-blading are common things to do. The cafes and restaurants almost all have outdoor seating. The surrounding villages offer plenty of sightseeing, and the ski resorts turn into ropes courses; also: golf courses, hiking and mountain bike extreme adventures, and white water rafting. During the winter, snow sports rule the area. With the Swiss and French Alps being a very short ride from Geneva, there is never a lack of places to choose from. My advice: plan to go above the clouds when you get away in the winter to get a little sunshine.
8. Is this a "shopping post"? Are there interesting handicrafts, artwork, antiques, or other items that people typically buy there?
Coo-coo clocks, watches, chocolate, and cheese.
9. Can you save money?
There are ways to pinch pennies, but do not come to CH if you are trying to save. Come when you are ready to retire and just want to indulge.
Words of Wisdom:
1. Knowing what you know now, would you still move to this city?
While I have made it my home for the time being, no I would not return. This is a good post for those who are towards the end of their career, do not need to save money, and have lots of vacation days.
2. If you move here, you can leave behind your:
US appliances.
3. But don't forget your:
credit card, snow gear, hiking and biking items.
4. Do you recommend any books or movies about this city/country for those who are interested in learning more?
5. Do you recommend any books or movies about this city/country for those who are interested in learning more?
6. Recommended movies/DVDs related to this city:
7. Do you have any other comments?
To live in Switzerland takes a certain degree of flexibility and understanding. This is a country that has done things their way for many centuries, so why learn from others or try something different? The lifestlye is much slower-paced, with plenty of coffee and smoking breaks. It is also surprising to me that in this beautiful area people will actually complain about the birds chirping or a baby crying.
