Sofia, Bulgaria Report of what it's like to live there - 06/03/11
Personal Experiences from Sofia, Bulgaria
Background:
1. Was this post your first expatriate experience? If not, what other cities have you lived in as an expat?
No, have lived in 3 other foreign countries.
2. What is your home city/country? How long is the trip to post from there, with what connections? How easy/difficult is it to travel to this city/country?
East coast US. Travel time is about 15 hours, including layovers. You can connect via London, Paris, Madrid, Rome, and Frankfurt. Lufthansa via Frankfurt is the best connection in my opinion.
3. How long have you lived here?
3 years.
4. What brought you to this city (e.g. diplomatic mission, business, NGO, military, teaching, retirement, etc.)?
Corporate.
Housing, Groceries & Food:
1. What is your housing like? What are typical housing sizes, locations, and commute times for expatriates?
Housing is mainly apartments in the city and houses in the suburbs located in the mountain. Most foreigners live in the South Park area of Lozenetz close to the US Embassy, in the city center, and in houses in Boyana or Dragalevci. Apartments are usually not well kept and even if they are new they deteriorate quite rapidly given the scant attention owners place in maintenance. Traffic in Sofia has gotten worse in the last years,infrastructure has not improved and this makes commuting more time consuming and frustrating.
2. How would you describe the availability and cost of groceries and household supplies relative to your home country?
Groceries are about 10-20% cheaper than in the States, though with the plummeting dollar they are getting more expensive. I usually shop at Carrefour, which is similar to WalMart. Some people go the Belgian owned Piccadilly chain, which is more expensive. There's also a Costco type place called Metro, which is German. They have also recently opened quite a few European chain DIY stores, so shopping now is really convenient.
3. What household or grocery items do you wish you had shipped to post?
Clothing (it's very expensive here and little choice even with GAP now open). Other things I would ship would be Crest toothpaste, which they don't carry in Bulgaria.
4. What typical restaurants, food delivery services, and/or takeout options are popular among expatriates?
In the past few years, many new fast food chains have opened outlets in Sofia. There's McDonald's, Burger King, Subway, KFC, Dunkin Donuts, Pizza Hut, Domino's and Starbucks. There's also Nordsee, a German seafood place with outlets in the big malls which is good. What's missing in my opinion is a TGI Friday's or Chili's type place. In terms of restaurants the traditional Bulgarian restaurants are very good, Bulgarian cuisine is great. Ethnic restaurants are not very impressive. The best in my opinion is Indian. There's just one Tex-Mex in town and it's awful.
5. What kinds of organic, vegetarian and allergy-friendly foods are available, such as organic produce, gluten-free products, meat substitutes for vegetarians, etc?
Plenty of organic vegetables. In general vegetables in Bulgaria are fantastic. The tomatoes and cucumbers are the best I've had. The cherries and watermelons are also great. The only problem is that they only harvest during the summer and during the winter they import veggies and fruits from Turkey and Greece, and excluding Greek oranges which are fabulous, the produce from those countries is mediocre.
6. Are there any unusual problems with insects or other infestations in housing?
Not many problems, some mosquitoes in the summer and bees and wasps.
Daily Life:
1. How do you send and receive your letters and package mail? Are local postal facilities adequate?
Bulgaria Post is cheap, but they take forever. DHL and TNT are good options, but they are expensive (about 80 bucks to send a document envelope to the U.S.).
2. What is the availability and cost of household help, and what types of help are typically employed by expatriates?
We pay about US$300 per month and she comes in twice a week for the whole day.
3. What kinds of gyms or other sports/workout facilities are available? Are they expensive?
Yes, there are many choices at all price levels. A lot of men go to World Class Fitness Academy, a Russian chain offering modern equipment, though expensive. A lot of women go to Curves.
4. Are credit cards widely accepted and safe to use locally? Are ATMs common and do you recommend using them? Are they safe to use?
More and more places accept credit cards, but it's still a cash economy. It's best to use ATMs inside banks, as they say a lot of others could have skimming equipment. There are ATMs on every corner or so it seems.
5. What English-language religious services are available locally?
There's a Catholic mass each Sunday held in English at Sofia University's chapel. They also hold an Anglican mass every third week there. There's also a Baptist church in the suburbs holding services in English. I've seen some LDS members, but not sure where they meet.
6. English-language newspapers and TV available? Cost?
Not much. There's the weekly Sofia Echo and the bi-monthly Vagabond magazine, neither of them are very good. Buy an Ipad or Kindle and get all your magazines like that, it will make your life a lot easier.
7. How much of the local language do you need for daily living? Are local language classes/tutors available and affordable?
Plenty. Most people over 40 don't speak a word of English. Younger people speak more, but in general English language skills are very low here.
8. Would someone with physical disabilities have difficulties living in this city?
Many! Sidewalks do not exist in most of the city, and when they do exist they tend to be in terrible shape. Infrastructure in general is awful and for people with disabilities it would be extremely difficult or even impossible to live here.
Transportation:
1. Are local buses, trams, trains or taxis safe and affordable?
Local transport is cheap, but generally in awful shape. They have recently bought newer buses and trolleys, so it has improved somewhat. Be careful with taxis, as a lot of them rip-off their customers, and they are allowed to do so since Sofia doesn't have a city-set taxi fare.
2. What kind of car do you recommend bringing to post, given the terrain, availability of parts, burglary/carjacking risks, etc.? What kind of car do you advise not to bring?
Parking is a nightmare, especially in the city center. It seems like developers here never build anything that has any parking and local authorities don't require it. As a consequence, most people park in very creative ways (sidewalks, gardens, parks, etc.). I would bring either a small car you don't mind getting scratched up, or a smallish SUV which you could use to travel around.
Phone & Internet:
1. Is high-speed home Internet access available? How long does it typically take to install it after arrival?
Yes, internet speed is great and prices are very low. I have 30 Mbps and pay about $15 per month.
2. Do you have any recommendations regarding mobile phones? Did you keep your home-country plan or use a local provider?
There are three companies and they are all pretty bad and pretty expensive. Their customer service is terrible. Most people have M-Tel, which is owned by Vodafone. More people are switching to Globul, owned by a Greek company.
Pets:
1. Are qualified veterinarians and/or good kennel services available? Do animals need to be quarantined upon entry to the country? Are there other considerations regarding pets that are particular to this country?
No, you follow the standard procedures for the EU (excluding the UK). When I brought my dog from the U.S., they didn't even check her papers in the airport, so procedures are not really followed or enforced.
2. Quality pet care available (vets & kennels)?
Don't expect much considering that hospitals for humans are barely functional. Most clinics are primitive in terms of equipment and looks, though the vets I've dealt with have been generally ok.
Employment & Volunteer Opportunities:
1. What types of jobs do most expatriate spouses/partners have? Locally based or telecommuting? Full-time or part-time? Can you comment on local salary scales?
Not really, wages are very low. An average salary is about 300 euros per month. A very good salary - managerial positions - pay about 700-800 euros per month.
2. What is the typical dress code at work and in public places? Is formal dress ever required?
Informal and similar to the U.S. Typically slacks and dress shirt for men and dresses for women. Few people -- mostly in banking -- wear suits to work.
Health & Safety:
1. Are there personal security concerns to be aware of at this post? Please describe.
The city is generally safe. In general much safer than cities of its size in the U.S. or Western Europe. There is an organized crime presence but they don't target people who don't mess with them. The organized crime figures tend to drive expensive European cars, have bodyguards, and drive like they own the roads.
2. Are there any particular health concerns? What is the quality of available medical care? What medical conditions typically require medical evacuation?
This is probably the weakest point of living here. The level of health care is dismal. State hospitals are decrepit, corruption is rife, and the service levels and sanitary standards are hard to believe, especially since this is an EU country. The best hospital by far is Tokuda hospital, a Japanese owned hospital that is clean, offers modern equipment and with generally good doctors. Though even there the doctors have a Soviet mentality where they don't think it's important to communicate with the patient about what they are doing or what the treatment will entail.
3. What is the air quality like at post (good/moderate/bad)? Are there seasonal air quality issues? Does the air quality have an impact on health?
Air quality in Sofia is pretty bad, there are many older cars and buses that contribute to the air quality. In the summer, with the heavy rains, it tends to improve. There is also a lot of dust in general.
4. What is the overall climate: is it extremely hot or cold, wet or dry, at any time of year, for example?
Continental climate similar to D.C. You have four seasons with a cold, snowy winter. The summer is not too bad given Sofia's high altitude (about 2,500 ft and higher in the suburbs). The fall and spring are very nice.
Schools & Children:
1. What is the availability of international schools? What has been your general experience with them, if any?
My kids are not school-aged yet, but most expats send their kids to the Anglo-American School (AAS). I've heard very good things about this school, but it's extremely expensive if your company or embassy is not footing the bill.
2. What accommodations do schools make for special-needs kids?
I've heard AAS has have the same programs as in the U.S.
3. Are preschools available? Day care? Are these expensive? What has been your experience with them, if any? Do the schools provide before- and/or after-school care?
There are a few English speaking daycare centers, but I'm not too sure about their quality.
4. Are local sports classes and/or activities available for kids?
Yes, there are several sport programs available, including tennis, golf, and soccer. I've even heard there's a little league baseball program, but I haven't seen it yet.
Expat Life:
1. What is the relative size of the expatriate community? How would you describe overall morale among expatriates?
On the smaller side. You really don't see many expats or other foreigners on your day-to-day activities, but they are out there somewhere.
2. Morale among expats:
Most people like living here.
3. What are some typical ways to socialize, either with local people or with other expatriates? Are there groups or clubs that you can recommend?
The nightlife in Sofia is good, there are many bars, nightclubs and other entertainment venues. Things go on until late, similar to that of Southern Europe.
4. Is this a good city for single people? For couples? For families? Why or why not?
It's a good cities for singles, specially guys. For families, it's a bit more difficult given the limited choices available in terms of places to go with kids. Smoking is a big issue here and most restaurants don't separate smoking areas, so if you have children this is an issue, especially in the winter months when you can't sit outside.
5. Is this a good city for LGBT expatriates? Why or why not?
Most people here are hostile towards gays. Bulgaria is still a conservative society overall. In the time I've been here I've never seen a gay couple walking in the streets or in the malls.
6. Are there problems with ethnic, race/racial minorities or religious prejudices? Gender equality?
Most locals have a problem with gypsies. Unfortunately due to their own actions or those of the government, gypsies are not well integrated in society and are responsible for petty theft. Their presence is ubiquitous, they typically drive their horse drawn carriages in the middle of the city. Quite a sight in the capital city of an EU country!
7. What have been the highlights of your time in this country? Best trips or experiences?
Visiting the Black Sea, beautiful monasteries, ancient history in the form of Roman amphitheaters, roads, mausoleums every time they dig it seems.
8. What are some interesting/fun things to do in the area? Can you recommend any “hidden gems"?
Travel to the Black Sea and the countryside. Bulgaria's nature is beautiful. Also cities like Belgrade, Bucharest, and Istanbul are about a 5-hour drive. Thessaloniki, Greece, and the Aegean are only a 3 to 4 hour drive from Sofia. With low cost carriers, traveling to all major Western European cities is affordable and easy.
9. Is this a "shopping post"? Are there interesting handicrafts, artwork, antiques, or other items that people typically buy there?
There are nice rugs, ceramic pots and pans, and some woodcarvings. Christian Orthodox icons are also nice.
10. What are the particular advantages of living in this city?
Ability to travel in the area and in Europe.
11. Can you save money?
The cost of living is about 50% lower than in Western Europe and about 30% cheaper than East Coast U.S. cities. Rent, utility bills, and helpers are significantly cheaper than in the U.S. That being said, the cost of living has increased drastically since accession to the EU in 2007 and will likely continue to increase, and more so when Bulgaria joins the Euro zone in 2015 or so. It's sometimes hard to imagine how people make ends meet with 300 euros a month.
Words of Wisdom:
1. Knowing what you know now, would you still move to this city?
No. I think three years is enough to discover Bulgaria (about the size of Tennessee) and visit the neighboring countries. If you like a very calm and laid back life then maybe this country would be good for you for a longer period. Many Brits and other westerners move here to escape the rat race they experience back home.
2. If you move here, you can leave behind your:
Ideas that this is Prague or Budapest. It's not. This is a third-world country in the EU, with Soviet and Turkish elements sprinkled with some small European elements.
3. But don't forget your:
Sense of optimism. Hearing from Bulgarians all day about how bad this country is (the make it seem like it's worse than Haiti) will wear you down after a while. But things have changed and will change, Greece, Spain, and Portugal were not modern developed countries 20 years ago when they joined the EU.
4. Do you recommend any books or movies about this city/country for those who are interested in learning more?
Several works by Name Your Link
5. Recommended movies/DVDs related to this city:
U.S. based Nu Image owns the largest film studio in Bulgaria and they have filmed several movies here with A list actors. Maybe a few movies you've seen were based in Sofia and you never even knew it.
6. Do you have any other comments?
Bulgaria is sometimes frustrating because of the lost potential. This country could be a very nice place: the nature is beautiful, there are amazing historical sights located here, and Sofia is a compact city with interesting attractions. Unfortunately the locals like to complain without end, while at the same time maintaining a very destructive attitude i.e. polluting, not working very hard, telling foreigners continuously how bad their country is, etc. Knowing how blessed Bulgaria is to be an EU and NATO member, it's hard to see how people could be so ungrateful. Many countries in the region would give everything to join the EU.
So many times it's a pity to see what could be and what is. The general contempt of the people and the incredible incompetence and corruption of the government angers you. Seeing the worst potholes I've seen in any capital city in Europe, trash everywhere, stray dogs, people driving horse-drawn carriages in the middle of the city, and other annoyances really get to you. I guess that communism is hard to clean off, even after 20 years. The mentality of the people is one of entitlement, they believe the government should do everything and that they have zero obligations. It will take at least one or two future generations to change this mentality and for people to become positive engaged members of their own society.
