Sofia, Bulgaria Report of what it's like to live there - 06/13/23
Personal Experiences from Sofia, Bulgaria
Background:
1. Was this post your first expatriate experience? If not, what other cities have you lived in as an expat?
First diplomatic post, but have lived in Ukraine and Peru previously.
2. What is your home city/country? How long is the trip to post from there, with what connections? How easy/difficult is it to travel to this city/country?
Philadelphia, PA. I leave out of Newark because it's easier but about 13 hours with a connection in Frankfurt. It's not too bad.
3. How long have you lived here?
A little over a year.
4. What years did you live here?
2022 to present.
5. What brought you to this city (e.g. diplomatic mission, business, NGO, military, teaching, retirement, etc.)?
Diplomatic Mission.
Housing, Groceries & Food:
1. What is your housing like? What are typical housing sizes, locations, and commute times for expatriates?
Housing varies depending on family size but generally there are three different types. Apartments closer to the embassy, and housing duplexes closer to the mountains (approx 15-20 mins away to the embassy). From what I've seen the apartments appear to be 3 bedrooms on average. each one is a little different even in the same building but overall are spacious. While the layout of our apartment is a little odd overall we love our apartment it's spacious and full of natural light.
The houses duplexes from the ones i've been to seem to be large, some with many stairs between levels, also with some funky layouts but in general the houses and duplexes seem nice.
2. How would you describe the availability and cost of groceries and household supplies relative to your home country?
I would say it is similar to the same in the US. We have Lidl, Kaufland, and Billa which resemble US smaller size supermarkets depending on which location you go to. Metro is like a Sams Club| Costco. You can find dupes for mostly everything you want but if you are brand specific you may want to see if you can get it sent.
Many people use Ebag which is a grocery delivery app. It's convenient and has same day delivery which is nice.
3. What household or grocery items do you wish you had shipped to post?
Spices: I like to cook my cultural foods and not all spices are available here. Other than that, as mentioned above you can find mostly everything and we have been happy with the selection here.
4. What typical restaurants, food delivery services, and/or takeout options are popular among expatriates?
Glovo and Takeaway are the most used. Some restaurants have their own delivery like Mr. Pizza or Dominos.
5. Are there any unusual problems with insects or other infestations in housing?
Not that I'm aware of.
Daily Life:
1. How do you send and receive your letters and package mail? Are local postal facilities adequate?
Through the embassy. I know of someone who does send mail via the local postal service and says it works find but I've never used it.
2. What is the availability and cost of household help, and what types of help are typically employed by expatriates?
Many people employee nannies especially if their children are under two as daycare for children under two is not really a thing here because the maternity leave is two years and I know of many people who employee housekeepers. We have a housekeeper who comes every two weeks and it's 100 lev per visit so about 50$.
3. What kinds of gyms or other sports/workout facilities are available? Are they expensive?
I don't have a membership anywhere but I hear they are comparable to US prices. There is a thing called multisport which the AERA store sells which basically allows you to go to multiple different gyms throughout the city. The embassy does have a small gym available for use.
4. Are credit cards widely accepted and safe to use locally? Are ATMs common and do you recommend using them? Are they safe to use?
Yes, we generally use credit cards most places. We do always carry cash because sometimes the card machine doesn't work and you will never know until the end of the night. Better safe than sorry. We only use the ATM at the embassy.
5. How much of the local language do you need for daily living? Are local language classes/tutors available and affordable?
Limited. In Sofia, most younger people speak English. You can very easily get by with only speaking English, if you speak Spanish that might also be helpful because many Bulgarians speak Spanish. Outside Sofia and the bigger cities I have encountered that you need more Bulgarian but that being said I know many people who do not know Bulgarian and are totally fine here.
6. Would someone with physical disabilities have difficulties living in this city?
Yes. The sidewalks are in poor conditions and can shift underneath you when walking. Sometimes where are elevators but often times there is a step or two required to access it.
Transportation:
1. Are local buses, trams, trains or taxis safe and affordable?
Yes. I use the metro, tram and taxi regularly without any issue. it's about 1.60 lev one way which is 80 cents accessing it may be an issue if you live in the mountains because while their are busses their frequency is less often from what I've heard and it can be difficult to get taxis to come pick you up.
2. What kind of vehicle(s) including electric ones do you recommend bringing to post, given the terrain, infrastructure, availability of parts, burglary/carjacking risks, etc.? What kind of car or vehicles do you advise not to bring?
We have a two door Toyota Yaris, and it is perfect for us. Many people have Rav 4s. I'd just check with housing before deciding what cars you bring buy because some larger cars cannot fit into the parking spaces provided.
Phone & Internet:
1. Is high-speed home Internet access available? How long does it typically take to install it after arrival?
Yes, it's set up pretty quickly. Once you arrive you will have to go to A1 to set up your account but generally it's pretty quick.
2. Do you have any recommendations regarding mobile phones? Did you keep your home-country plan or use a local provider?
I use Google Fi and it works perfectly. I know for us, when we got our internet package it does with one mobile line which we use as a spare one and in case we need to make local calls.
Pets:
1. Are qualified veterinarians and/or good kennel services available? Do animals need to be quarantined upon entry to the country? Are there other considerations regarding pets that are particular to this country?
Bulgaria is a perfect place for dogs (pets in generally but dogs have a great life here) Bulgarians love animals. Dogs are often seen in public and with their owners, at restaurants, cafes, hotels and even are allowed on public transport. If you take a walk through the parks (south park is right behind the embassy) you will see Bulgarians out walking their dogs. There are so many pet stores with pet supplies. Vet care is good and much more affordable than vets in America. We really love our vet here, she has taken good care of our pup.
Employment & Volunteer Opportunities:
1. What types of jobs do most expatriate spouses/partners have? Locally based or telecommuting? Full-time or part-time? Can you comment on local salary scales?
I'm not aware of anyone who works on the local economy. However, I know there are a number of EFMs who telework. There are several EFMs who work at the embassy both in full time and part time positions. Though I will say, during our year long stay I haven't seen that many job opportunities become available, I think maybe 4 or 5? If your EFM is interested in working, they should probably start looking at positions well in advance.
2. What volunteer opportunities are available locally?
I know a few people volunteer at the local animal shelter.
3. What is the typical dress code at work and in public places? Is formal dress ever required?
Bulgarians care about how they look. Often times they leave the house with causal but smart looking outfits not like they just rolled out of bed. For eastern Europe, Bulgarians are much more casual than other parts of the region. Those in the Pol/Econ section wear suits daily, but I haven't seen many other departments wear full suits regularly. As for formal dresses for women, that's generally just for marine ball.
Health & Safety:
1. Are there personal security concerns to be aware of at this post? Please describe.
Not really. Sofia is generally a safe city. I feel safer here than at home, however I think it's important to remember that you are in a large city and to be aware of your surroundings.
2. Are there any particular health concerns? What is the quality of available medical care? What medical conditions typically require medical evacuation?
Not that I'm aware of. The medical unit here is good and helpful. I've heard of local med unit staff offering to accompany American staff to doctors appointments in case of translation needs.
3. What is the air quality like at post (good/moderate/bad)? Are there seasonal air quality issues? Does the air quality have an impact on health?
Air quality can decline in winter, post provides air purifiers but otherwise generally it is good.
4. What do people who suffer from environmental or food allergies need to know?
Spring allergy season can be bad for some people. Sofia is a very green city so just make sure to bring enough allergy meds if you are allergic to pollen. Food allergies: I think awareness around them is becoming more common. At the bigger chains fancier restaurants there is often a number system at the back of the menu with numbers along side the dish so you are aware of what allergens can be in the food.
5. Are there any particular mental health issues that tend to crop up at post, such as Seasonal Affective Disorder (winter blues)?
Winter can be long, as even if it doesn't snow it can be gray. If you feel yourself affected by this, make sure you pack your happy lamp just in case.
6. What is the overall climate: is it extremely hot or cold, wet or dry, at any time of year, for example?
It reminds me of Pennsylvania to be honest. All four seasons are present and felt.
Schools & Children:
1. What is the availability of international schools? What has been your general experience with them, if any?
Many people send their children to the Anglo-American School. I know one family sends their children to the French school. I don't have kids so I don't know first-hand but people seem content with the school.
2. Are preschools available? Day care? Are these expensive? What has been your experience with them, if any? Do the schools provide before- and/or after-school care?
Generally for under two no. For over two I have heard that there are options available however I don't know the cost or if people are happy with them. I do know that the Anglo Americans school offers extracurricular activities but unsure about before or after school services.
3. Are local sports classes and/or activities available for kids?
I believe there are some a the Anglo American School but not sure to what degree.
Expat Life:
1. What is the relative size of the expatriate community? How would you describe overall morale among expatriates?
I would say its medium-size. The overall morale of the embassy community seems neutral to be honest. It seems like most people travel a lot here since the airport is well connected and the flights are cheap. The Community Liaison Office (CLO) has events here but many people particularly people with children do not attend unless it is a holiday event (however, there are also concerns about the sense of community here).
It seems like most people try to find "their people" and make it work. However, in my opinion, the community as a whole doesn't feel very close community.
2. What are some typical ways to socialize, either with local people or with other expatriates? Are there groups or clubs that you can recommend?
Some people look for groups of FB with a hobby they like, like hiking or board games. Some people meet up with other diplomats from other countries that they meet through work, there is a expat women's group that holds weekly events for a membership fee that some people join.
3. Is this a good city for single people? For couples? For families? Why or why not?
I think it's good for everyone, it is right really a family post. That being said, the CLO does do events and the singles or couples are usually the ones who attend the events regularly. It's a good way to meet and get to know your fellow co-workers.
4. Is it easy to make friends with locals here? Are there any prejudices or any ethnic groups who might feel uncomfortable here?
No. I've found through my experience living in former Communist countries in the region it is challenging. Locals are friendly however, it is clear that you are not friends but acquaintances. Their definition and needs out of a friend are much different than American standards is what I've noticed and respect.
People of Color: specifically Black Americans may have a difficult time. I haven't heard of any direct racism from my colleagues but Bulgaria is a very homogeneous culture and racism is a global issue. In addition, Bulgarians might mistake Latinos and Middle Eastern people for Romani. In my experience, Romani are often not treated well, discriminated against and experience racism locally.
5. Is this a good city for LGBT expatriates? Why or why not?
It's complicated. Bulgaria isn't like some countries where it is very dangerous for LGBTQ folks but it is a place I'd be more careful about disclosing. There are pockets of safe spaces like The Steps which is a community space that turns into a gay club on the weekends. There is a lesbian bar here, and an underground drag scene with drag bingo but generally I think the tides are changing. Bulgarians are becoming more accepting but safety is important and it's important to watch out for.
They do have Pride yearly and the crowd size seems to get bigger and bigger each year which gives me hope but again, be careful.
6. Are there problems with ethnic, race/racial minorities or religious prejudices? Gender equality?
see above.
7. What have been the highlights of your time in this country? Best trips or experiences?
Bulgaria is naturally beautiful, mountainous and very green when in the right season. Plovdiv is one of my favorite cities, and we have really enjoyed going out hiking.
8. What are some interesting/fun things to do in the area? Can you recommend any “hidden gems"?
Not so much hidden, but there are some cool places like the fortress in Veliko Tarnavo, or Belogradchik. The Rila 7 lakes is supposed to be beautiful (hoping to get there soon). People like to go snow boarding in Pamporovo, and there some nice spa hotels in Velingrad. Bulgaria has things to do but you just have to be willing to find it.
9. Is this a "shopping post"? Are there interesting handicrafts, artwork, antiques, or other items that people typically buy there?
No, not really.
10. What are the particular advantages of living in this city?
It's generally affordable, it's safe, and I find it just an easy place to live.
Words of Wisdom:
1. What do you wish you had known about this particular city/country before moving there?
Just how beautiful this country is and that Bulgaria can be fun but it's a make your type of fun. Also, that it would take us a while to feel like we "found our people" it felt lonely sometimes and a while to make friends within the community.
2. Knowing what you know now, would you still move to this city?
Yes.
3. If you move here, you can leave behind your:
your perception of Eastern Europe, while it's a little funky sometimes you can find anything you want here and if you are open- minded you can create your own fun.
4. But don't forget your:
sense of adventure.
