Athens, Greece Report of what it's like to live there - 01/30/23
Personal Experiences from Athens, Greece
Background:
1. Was this post your first expatriate experience? If not, what other cities have you lived in as an expat?
First USG tour, but not first time living overseas.
2. What is your home city/country? How long is the trip to post from there, with what connections? How easy/difficult is it to travel to this city/country?
Virginia, US.
3. How long have you lived here?
Three years.
4. What years did you live here?
2019-2022.
5. What brought you to this city (e.g. diplomatic mission, business, NGO, military, teaching, retirement, etc.)?
US Mission.
Housing, Groceries & Food:
1. What is your housing like? What are typical housing sizes, locations, and commute times for expatriates?
In my opinion, the housing pool is not great in Athens. Larger families will be put on the outskirts of Athens where the housing is a little better. However, if you want to live closer to the Embassy expect housing that is, in my opinion, severely dated, and often filled with issues that are rarely seem to be addressed in a timely manner.
While we were we heard there were several people had major issues that took housing months to fix (water that was making people sick, major water leaks causing mold, no electric ground, non-functioning water heaters etc). We lived closer to the Embassy so our commute was relatively easy, however those out further had to fight Athens traffic, which is not for the faint of heart.
2. How would you describe the availability and cost of groceries and household supplies relative to your home country?
Amazing!! The cost of fresh local produce can’t be beat, as the local markets (Laiki) are incredible for fresh fruit, vegetables, and flowers (fish, too, if that is your jam). The delivery services in Athens are amazing and you can get food (Wolt is amazing) or grocery’s delivered (efresh or AB) at a very low cost. Compared to the US it’s incredibly cheap (and fantastic quality/ quantity for what you pay).
3. What household or grocery items do you wish you had shipped to post?
Nothing really, most things can be purchased on the local market.
4. What typical restaurants, food delivery services, and/or takeout options are popular among expatriates?
Wolt and Efood for food delivery and takeout are exceptional. Really since COVID pretty much every place has this option or you can just call them directly (most places speak some English).
5. Are there any unusual problems with insects or other infestations in housing?
Every spring there are toxic caterpillars. They show up in long lines or huge clumps on the ground. Their hairs are toxic and if touched even slightly they can kill pets or harm humans. Not everyone is allergic, but if you are it can be pretty unpleasant. Kids and pets are particularly vulnerable. These usually are near the pine and cedar trees, so it is best to avoid forested areas during their window. Also, just keep in mind that their hairs mix into the dirt, so if there isn’t a hard rain they can remain long after the actual bug is gone (learned the hard way on that one).
Daily Life:
1. How do you send and receive your letters and package mail? Are local postal facilities adequate?
We used the Embassy mail room.
2. What is the availability and cost of household help, and what types of help are typically employed by expatriates?
They have pretty standard rates for help. 8 dollars an hour on the low end and 12 on the very high end.
3. What kinds of gyms or other sports/workout facilities are available? Are they expensive?
Gyms are plentiful and are similar to gyms in the US price-wise, however expect them to be jam-packed during core hours. There are a few places you can run outdoors where the roads are made for it (by the National Garden), but most of Athens is uneven marble or stone sidewalks that force you to run in the street.
4. Are credit cards widely accepted and safe to use locally? Are ATMs common and do you recommend using them? Are they safe to use?
Yes, though skimmers are popping up more in tourist areas.
5. What English-language religious services are available locally?
There are a few large expat churches that aren’t Orthodox, but the Orthodox churches are the main religious venues in Greece.
6. How much of the local language do you need for daily living? Are local language classes/tutors available and affordable?
You can get by with little to no Greek in most large cities and islands. It’s only when you get to some of the smaller more remote villages or islands that it becomes more difficult. There will be times you may have to struggle through (the Laiki or small Resturants) but eventually you get what you need. Also, if you try to speak Greek, expect to be corrected a lot (most of the time it’s kind).
7. Would someone with physical disabilities have difficulties living in this city?
Yes, the sidewalks are horrible and there are stairs everywhere.
Transportation:
1. Are local buses, trams, trains or taxis safe and affordable?
They are all safe and affordable, however if you are going to take a taxi, use an app like Uber. The taxi drivers will scam you by hiding their meter, or placing a phone with a fake meter in front of it. They will also quote you insane cash estimates when you get off the plane or ferries, so just use the app or demand to see the meter.
2. What kind of car do you recommend bringing to post, given the terrain, availability of parts, burglary/carjacking risks, etc.? What kind of car do you advise not to bring?
Something small and maneuverable if you plan on living in the heart of Athens. If you are thinking about driving all over Greece to explore (which you should) maybe bring a midsize SUV. Many people brought a SUV and then purchased a smaller more beat up car on the local market. Your car will get dinged and scratched and bumped..and maybe broken into..so plan accordingly. When in traffic, never leave anything of value out on the seats next to your or behind you, scooters have free reign in Athens so occasionally criminals will use this to roll through and smash windows and grab purses etc.
Phone & Internet:
1. Is high-speed home Internet access available? How long does it typically take to install it after arrival?
The speed depends on where and what building you live in, but my experience and those of many Embassy employees was terrible speeds akin to dial up. In most cases it was easier to use cellular data than do anything on home internet. If you or your spouse is working from home remotely you might want to look into Starlink. Cell service is fine, and Vodaphone will be fine on most islands and cities.
2. Do you have any recommendations regarding mobile phones? Did you keep your home-country plan or use a local provider?
We had dual sim iPhones and kept our US number with Google Fi and the local number with Vodaphone. Google fi is great (if you are not military or diplomats, then prolonged data use overseas will get your number shut off). Any of the local providers is fine, but Vodaphone is most folks preferred carrier.
Employment & Volunteer Opportunities:
1. What volunteer opportunities are available locally?
The refugee camp has lots of opportunities if you have the right connections.
2. What is the typical dress code at work and in public places? Is formal dress ever required?
For the Embassy it depends on what office you work in. Everything from full suits to people dressing down in jeans. Just remember wherever you are it will be HOT most of the year so prepare to sweat.
Health & Safety:
1. Are there personal security concerns to be aware of at this post? Please describe.
The dangers to Americans that may have been prevalent in the 80s and 90s is mostly gone. I would generally not recommend advertising your Embassy employment, but that is just common sense. Pick pockets do operate pretty heavily in the tourist areas and on public transportation.
2. Are there any particular health concerns? What is the quality of available medical care? What medical conditions typically require medical evacuation?
The medical care here is something you should seriously look into. Most of the doctors were US-educated or at least practiced in the US or Western Europe, but the equipment is from the 1970s (at best). I would highly recommend seeking any serious medical treatment in Germany or the US. If you are unfortunate enough to have a medical emergency, be prepared for even more chaos than a normal emergency room with people charging you before each test and in some cases, it's my understanding of looking for bribes for better care. If you have a medical need or something you think might come up, you should do some serious research first.
3. What is the air quality like at post (good/moderate/bad)? Are there seasonal air quality issues? Does the air quality have an impact on health?
Can be pretty heavy with woodsmoke in the winter and smoggy in the heat of summer. Not Beijing but def not like most of Western Europe or the US. Lots of people packed in very tightly in very poorly built housing..it’s about what you’d expect.
4. What do people who suffer from environmental or food allergies need to know?
Lots of seasonal allergies due to dust and olive/almond trees, and some related to smog, etc.
5. What is the overall climate: is it extremely hot or cold, wet or dry, at any time of year, for example?
Mid Nov-Feb- seasonally cold…March-April- pleasant- warming..May- mid-Nov- Hot…July-August- the burning inferno………October is supposed to be rainy season though we rarely experienced that during our time. We had two of the largest snows ever during our time but that is not usual.
Schools & Children:
1. What is the availability of international schools? What has been your general experience with them, if any?
There are several.
2. Are preschools available? Day care? Are these expensive? What has been your experience with them, if any? Do the schools provide before- and/or after-school care?
Yes, though a nanny is relatively cheap and easier to deal with generally.
3. Are local sports classes and/or activities available for kids?
Not a good post for baseball.
Expat Life:
1. What is the relative size of the expatriate community? How would you describe overall morale among expatriates?
Lots of Americans and Greek Americans around.
2. What are some typical ways to socialize, either with local people or with other expatriates? Are there groups or clubs that you can recommend?
So, this Embassy is more of a travel post. Unless you have a bunch of kids and live farther out in close proximity to other Embassy families, you will likely rarely hang with other Embassy folks. Traveling on the weekends is ideal anyway, so it’s not that big of a deal.
3. Is this a good city for single people? For couples? For families? Why or why not?
Couples are ideal…ease of travel….great restaurants..perfect for couples. Great for families with small number of kids that aren’t too old. Big families seem to have some challenges, but I can’t really speak to that.
4. Is it easy to make friends with locals here? Are there any prejudices or any ethnic groups who might feel uncomfortable here?
Greeks take a bit to trust and warm up to you but after that they treat you like family. Just ignore the constant yelling and what may seem like overreacting….also the many many personal questions.
5. Are there problems with ethnic, race/racial minorities or religious prejudices? Gender equality?
No comment.
6. What have been the highlights of your time in this country? Best trips or experiences?
Travel frequently…explore the city and see as many islands as you can. Don’t sleep on the rest of mainland Greece though, so many beautiful things to see.
7. What are some interesting/fun things to do in the area? Can you recommend any “hidden gems"?
Check out the abandoned royal summer house.
8. Is this a "shopping post"? Are there interesting handicrafts, artwork, antiques, or other items that people typically buy there?
Yes: pottery, jewelry, olive wood, olive oil, and wine.
9. What are the particular advantages of living in this city?
Ease of travel, cheap delicious food and produce, general safety, cost of living.
Words of Wisdom:
1. What do you wish you had known about this particular city/country before moving there?
Medical care…you will hear how it’s fine/adequate/great, but until you experience a legitimate emergency you have no idea. From manning the duty phone, I can assure you I wasn’t alone.
2. Knowing what you know now, would you still move to this city?
Yes.
3. If you move here, you can leave behind your:
Large vehicle.
4. But don't forget your:
Apple products, Apple has a huge mark up here and long wait times. Comfortable mattress if you live in Embassy housing.
5. Do you recommend any books or movies about this city/country for those who are interested in learning more?
Watch Beckett on Netflix…terrible movie, but it’s filmed in the “real” parts of Greece and Athens, and not just the islands or tourist spots.
6. Do you have any other comments?
If you are expecting an organized and efficient post/city, think again. This place is in Southern Europe after all, so think kind of Balkans-light. I loved it, but there were lots of folks expecting a garden post on Santorini..and they were just crushed by the bureaucracy and inefficiency.
