Tegucigalpa, Honduras Report of what it's like to live there - 04/24/18
Personal Experiences from Tegucigalpa, Honduras
Background:
1. Was this post your first expatriate experience? If not, what other cities have you lived in as an expat?
First assignment in the Foreign Service, but not my first expat experience.
2. What is your home city/country? How long is the trip to post from there, with what connections? How easy/difficult is it to travel to this city/country?
D.C. area. Flights to Honduras leave early in the morning from the east coast, connecting in Miami, Atlanta, or Houston, and arriving in Tegucigalpa around noon. Flights from Honduras to the U.S. leave early afternoon and get to DC/NYC late at night - so you basically lose a day when flying back to the States.
Flights are expensive and sparse. Flying anywhere in Latin America usually requires a stop in San Salvador or Panama City. There are occasional deals on flights to Lima and Bogota, but generally it's super expensive to fly out of Tegucigalpa, even for short flights - Mexico City ($700), Guatemala ($400), Costa Rica ($300) etc. Even flying to the Honduran island of Roatan can get pricy - $200 roundtrip for a 45 minute flight.
3. How long have you lived here?
Almost done with a two year tour.
4. What brought you to this city (e.g. diplomatic mission, business, NGO, military, teaching, retirement, etc.)?
Diplomatic mission.
Housing, Groceries & Food:
1. What is your housing like? What are typical housing sizes, locations, and commute times for expatriates?
Some people complained, but I thought housing here was generally really nice. Mostly single family homes and condos, but they are adding more apartments to the housing pool. One apartment building is right across the street from where the new embassy compound is being built and has a small pool and tennis court. The other apartments I saw weren't that spacious/modern and didn't have any amenities. The houses are in gated "secure" neighborhoods and generally have a small yard.
Most housing is within a 15 minute drive to the embassy depending on traffic. There are a few properties on the other side of the city where it might take an hour to get home if evening traffic is bad.
2. How would you describe the availability and cost of groceries and household supplies relative to your home country?
You can get pretty much everything here. PriceSmart carries Costco brand products. The local market is kind of fun to visit on Saturday for cheap produce. Lettuce/kale/spinach is low quality but most of the other produce is ok. Some people bleached their fruit and veggies; I never did this and didn't have any issues.
3. What household or grocery items do you wish you had shipped to post?
Wine and craft beer.
4. What typical restaurants, food delivery services, and/or takeout options are popular among expatriates?
The restaurant scene here isn't totally barren. Tegucigalpa does pizza and chicken well, otherwise the food here is boring. Arno (French), Domo Pizza, Claudio's (Italian) are some of the highlights. There is one semi-fancy restaurant with a nice view of the city - La Cumbre.
Most of the restaurants will deliver but the challenge is getting a working phone number and finding a menu online. There's an online delivery service called Que Rico that works.
Overall there are a decent number of restaurants, but the food is bland and even at the decent places the quality can vary from day to day. The service is also seems terrible to me; ask for a check as soon as your food arrives. After enough disappointing meals I've stopped eating out much and just cook at home.
5. Are there any unusual problems with insects or other infestations in housing?
Not really.
Daily Life:
1. How do you send and receive your letters and package mail? Are local postal facilities adequate?
DPO and pouch. Takes a couple weeks depending on whether the government is cooperating.
2. What is the availability and cost of household help, and what types of help are typically employed by expatriates?
Cheap and readily available. Even some childless couples have live in help. Plenty of nannies, drivers, gardeners and cleaners looking for work. Mostly trustworthy.
3. What kinds of gyms or other sports/workout facilities are available? Are they expensive?
Both USAID and the embassy have decent gyms. Cardio equipment is limited and it can get crowded before and after work. Making things even tighter, a trainer leads a group class for local staff right at 4pm every day when the gym is busiest. I've never been bold enough to complain about this.
There are options of CrossFit, yoga, and boxing gyms. There seems to be a road race every weekend. AJ Fitness and Cybex are pretty nice facilities with pools, I think around $100//month. Personal trainers will come to your house.
4. Are credit cards widely accepted and safe to use locally? Are ATMs common and do you recommend using them? Are they safe to use?
I've never had a problem with credit cards. Most restaurants and the grocery stores accept them. I try to pay in cash at restaurants as waiters may take 20 minutes to bring back your credit card receipt.
The embassy ATM is usually working and the bank there will cash a check.
5. What English-language religious services are available locally?
I think some people go to church.
6. How much of the local language do you need for daily living? Are local language classes/tutors available and affordable?
The wealthy Hondurans you'll meet at parties speak English fluently, but it would be good to have some Spanish to go about your daily business as nobody working in the service sector speaks English. There are some people that seem to do fine without Spanish but that must be frustrating.
There are a few Spanish tutors that will come to your house and the embassy has free Spanish classes.
Hondurans are very nice people, and are really patient with bad Spanish speakers.
7. Would someone with physical disabilities have difficulties living in this city?
Yup.
Transportation:
1. Are local buses, trams, trains or taxis safe and affordable?
I think one would have to be crazy to get on a bus or use a taxi off the street.
Everyone uses the same car service. Usually $5 to go most places in the city, $10 to go to the airport.
2. What kind of car do you recommend bringing to post, given the terrain, availability of parts, burglary/carjacking risks, etc.? What kind of car do you advise not to bring?
Anything really. Most people have light SUVs. 4-wheel drive and high clearance is good as the roads are terrible, especially if you plan on taking trips to Copan Ruinas or the north coast (which you will definitely want to do). A sedan/coupe is ok as well.
A couple mechanics will pick up your car at the embassy/your home and return it. Cheap and they seem to do a good job.
I've never heard of someone being carjacked, though a local employee did have someone steal the battery out of his car. You need to get your windows tinted and be careful. A direct hire driving around with his windows down got mugged a gun point in the middle of the day in one of the safest parts of the city. This sort of thing does not seem to be common, but it has happened.
Phone & Internet:
1. Is high-speed home Internet access available? How long does it typically take to install it after arrival?
Only Tigo. You need to have it installed when you arrive, could take a week. Not too expensive and generally works well enough to stream video. Occasional outages that seem to be resolved relatively quickly.
2. Do you have any recommendations regarding mobile phones? Did you keep your home-country plan or use a local provider?
Unlocked iPhone. Tigo comes to the embassy once every couple weeks and will set you up with 10gb/month for $25 or so. The Tigo plans will not work elsewhere in Central America.
Pets:
1. Are qualified veterinarians and/or good kennel services available? Do animals need to be quarantined upon entry to the country? Are there other considerations regarding pets that are particular to this country?
No experience, but never heard any complaints.
Employment & Volunteer Opportunities:
1. What types of jobs do most expatriate spouses/partners have? Locally based or telecommuting? Full-time or part-time? Can you comment on local salary scales?
There are a decent number of EFM jobs at the embassy, but the hiring freeze was really devastating for spouses. A lot of people do consulting from home.
Not much on the local economy, but a few spouses have worked at Zamarano University. If you have an NGO/development background and/or can speak Spanish there would be opportunities.
2. What volunteer opportunities are available locally?
I assume so.
3. What is the typical dress code at work and in public places? Is formal dress ever required?
Mostly business dress at the embassy. For men, consular, political, and econ officers wear suits (or at least have a suit jacket ready to go). USAID and other State direct hires are ok with slacks and a button down. Whatever you want outside of work. No real comment for women. Honduran women wear tight dresses and heels.
Health & Safety:
1. Are there personal security concerns to be aware of at this post? Please describe.
Not as bad as you would think. Gang violence doesn't really impact the expat community. I've never felt in danger and have never felt limited in where I could go and what I could do.
Nevertheless, you do need to be aware of surroundings and take precautions. A couple years ago an intern was the victim of an armed robbery a few blocks from the embassy. Local staff are more likely to be a victim of a crime.
Protests and rioting were pretty frequent during the election crisis. These were not directed at expats but caused some tense moments and terrible traffic. It does get frustrating that you cannot walk anywhere in the city.
2. Are there any particular health concerns? What is the quality of available medical care? What medical conditions typically require medical evacuation?
Not really. Medical care at the private hospital is pretty good I think, but you will be medevac'd for anything serious. There have been several medical curtailments.
3. What is the air quality like at post (good/moderate/bad)? Are there seasonal air quality issues? Does the air quality have an impact on health?
Fine. Farmers burn their fields every year which causes problems for a few weeks.
4. Are there any particular mental health issues that tend to crop up at post, such as Seasonal Affective Disorder (winter blues)?
Just frustration that it's expensive to get out of the city and you can feel confined to your home and the mall.
5. What is the overall climate: is it extremely hot or cold, wet or dry, at any time of year, for example?
Perfect weather year round. Sunny and mid 70s to low 80s. Can get a little cooler in December-Jan which is a nice change. There is a rainy season but generally it will only rain for 30 minutes or so in the evening.
Expat Life:
1. What is the relative size of the expatriate community? How would you describe overall morale among expatriates?
Small. Not much besides the US embassy, AID, and JICA. You can connect with other expats if you put in the effort.
People are happy when their tours end and there do seem to be a lot of curtailments, but I don't think that many people are truly miserable. There's enough to do that you don't get super bored.
2. What are some typical ways to socialize, either with local people or with other expatriates? Are there groups or clubs that you can recommend?
Mainly barbecues and house parties. There are a few decent bars and restaurants but not much in terms of nightlife or culture.
Birthday parties for people with kids. There is a group for young expats.
3. Is this a good city for single people? For couples? For families? Why or why not?
The only people that seem truly content here are families with young children as there is an easy social network and help is cheap. Childless couple will be ok if the trailing spouse has a portable career or an EFM job lined up and they enjoy outdoor activities - hiking, scuba etc.
Singles complain about the lack of nightlife and dating options. That said. it seems like straight guys will have no problem finding a Honduran girlfriend and I know a few women that have dated Honduran men. The problem for singles is that there's just not that much to do and you'll spend a lot of time at home if you're not really committed to getting out and meeting people (and even then expect some boring weekends).
4. Is this a good city for LGBT expatriates? Why or why not?
Not good in terms of dating and nightlife options, but otherwise fine.
5. Are there problems with ethnic, race/racial minorities or religious prejudices? Gender equality?
Not really, but Hondurans have a more regressive view on the role of women.
6. What have been the highlights of your time in this country? Best trips or experiences?
The perfect weather. Road trips to Copan Ruinas, the Caribbean coast, El Salvador, and Nicaragua. Scuba diving on Roatan and Utila. Regional travel around Central America and a couple trips to South America (though this was expensive). Cheap 5 and 10k road races.
7. What are some interesting/fun things to do in the area? Can you recommend any “hidden gems"?
Nothing really. There is a cloud forest nature reserve about 50 minutes from Tegucigalpa but seeing it once is enough. The little villages of Valle de Angeles and Santa Lucia are ok for a couple Saturday excursions and the chance to walk a bit, but not really exciting.
8. Is this a "shopping post"? Are there interesting handicrafts, artwork, antiques, or other items that people typically buy there?
Nothing worth buying.
9. What are the particular advantages of living in this city?
Nothing really, just the weather and cheap domestic help. If you need something done - gardening, personal training, mechanic - there is someone that will do it cheap.
Words of Wisdom:
1. What do you wish you had known about this particular city/country before moving there?
Crime and violence doesn't have a significant impact on your life. The culture here is pretty similar to the U.S. so it hasn't really been interesting living here.
2. Knowing what you know now, would you still move to this city?
I wouldn't willingly do another assignment here, but I don't hate it either. For two years there are enough things to see and do to occupy your time. A three year assignment would be much more challenging I think. I'd only recommend this post to a family with small children.
3. If you move here, you can leave behind your:
Winter clothes. Expectations of having a unique cultural experience. Expectations of solving the intractable political and economic problems here.
4. But don't forget your:
Beach and hiking gear. Books, video games, and Netflix subscription.
5. Do you have any other comments?
The consensus is that Tegucigalpa is the worst posting in Central America. I much preferred Guatemala, Nicaragua, and El Salvador as there's a lot more going on in the cities and more to see in terms of nature (beaches, volcanoes etc.). There are things to see in Honduras but the infrastructure is so bad that you really need a 4-day weekend to go anyplace worthwhile. It's comfortable living here but just a bit dull as you can't walk anywhere and there is no real local culture.
