Tegucigalpa, Honduras Report of what it's like to live there - 05/01/18
Personal Experiences from Tegucigalpa, Honduras
Background:
1. Was this post your first expatriate experience? If not, what other cities have you lived in as an expat?
Yes.
2. What is your home city/country? How long is the trip to post from there, with what connections? How easy/difficult is it to travel to this city/country?
Virginia. Traveling out of Tegucigalpa is pretty horrible. Cost of flights is obscene and you will have to connect through El Sal, Panama, Miami, ATL or Houston. Flying back to DCA or IAD is $700 round trip at a minimum. If you are flying on an American airline, you will be flying out after 12 noon, so depending on your final destination, you will be arriving very late at night or the next day. If you choose to fly a Latin American airline, there are flights out earlier in the morning, but you will have to connect through El Sal or Panama City.
3. How long have you lived here?
1.5 years out of a 2 year tour.
4. What brought you to this city (e.g. diplomatic mission, business, NGO, military, teaching, retirement, etc.)?
Diplomatic mission.
Housing, Groceries & Food:
1. What is your housing like? What are typical housing sizes, locations, and commute times for expatriates?
We live in a gated neighborhood. Even though the guards will stop everyone coming in by car to take ID information, they cannot refuse to let anyone through, and anyone can walk into the neighborhood. The American School is also in the neighborhood, so in the morning there are cars flying through the neighborhood, honking and passing people trying to get their kids to school. The commute from the embassy in the evening is a nightmare for us; it sometimes takes over an hour to drive about 2 miles home. Honduran drivers are aggressive, reckless, and VERY impatient. There do not seem to be any cops around to enforce driving rules, so it's every man for himself on the road.
There are several other gated neighborhoods, many near Blvd Suyapa, which is a whole other level of nightmare because there are constantly street closings on Suyapa due to protests and student demonstrations. There are also a few apartment buildings diplomats can live in, the apartments I have seen are spacious and more modern than the housing.
Our house was probably built in the 1970s and has not been renovated since. The bathrooms and kitchen are terribly dated. We are lucky enough to have a "large" yard by Tegucigalpa standards. Most houses have a patch of grass as a yard.
2. How would you describe the availability and cost of groceries and household supplies relative to your home country?
You'd think in a country of year-round summer you'd have access to fantastic produce, but unfortunately, all the good stuff gets exported. There is an open market on the weekends that has produce as far as the eye can see, but it's all the same produce. Everyone is selling carrots, onions, potatoes, limes, and cilantro. There is a fishmonger where you can buy fresh fish, and you can even get a smoothie at the center of the market. You will not find any variety or specialty produce, even in the grocery stores. Sometimes it's even difficult to find produce in the grocery store that's not past its prime.
There is one organic store called Organica, but the prices are 3x the price of Whole Foods, and it's all either boxed items or frozen. There is one area for produce, but every time I've been there the produce has been rotting.
There is also Más por Menos, which is a "specialty" grocery store where you will find some items from the US you can't find elsewhere. We have Pricemart, which is like Costco, and Walmart. Neither are quite up to par with their US equivalents.
3. What household or grocery items do you wish you had shipped to post?
Lemons and good wine. The embassy PX only stocks wine a college-aged girl would drink, and the grocery stores stock the cheapest wines from Chile and Argentina and up-charge. I have never in my life had worse hangovers than I have here. Cleaning supplies without heavy perfumes (but these can be ordered on Amazon and cross your fingers nothing leaks. None of my liquids have ever been turned away by DPO).
4. What typical restaurants, food delivery services, and/or takeout options are popular among expatriates?
The food might be one of the most disappointing parts of Honduras. There is no food culture (or any other form of culture) here. The most famous plato tÃpico here is the baleada - which is just a tortilla with refried beans and cheese on it. If you get a fancy baleada you'll get some steak, egg and/or avocado on it. The food is a little better on the North coast, at least there is fresh fish and the food is more in the style of typical Caribbean/Latin American food.
Restaurants in Teguc are also disappointing. Everything is over-salted, and they throw MSG cubitos into everything. A few new restaurants have opened nearby, but the quality of food is already deteriorating.
You can find other ethnic food here - e.g., Indian, Thai, Chinese, but you need to have VERY low expectations, as it is the "Honduran-version" of Indian, Thai, or Chinese.
5. Are there any unusual problems with insects or other infestations in housing?
There are mosquitos, ants and flies. Last year there were lots of locusts in the fall. The bugs aren't huge, and they are manageable. Malaria is not an issue in the mountains, but dengue, zika, and chikungunya potentially are.
Daily Life:
1. How do you send and receive your letters and package mail? Are local postal facilities adequate?
Sending mail usually reaches the US within a week and a half to two weeks. Receiving mail is a crap-shoot. Some packages will take 3 weeks, others will take 6 weeks. When we first arrived, mail was taking 6-8 weeks to arrive. I also just received a package yesterday (April) that was sent out in November.
Incoming mail goes through customs in San Pedro Sula, then again through customs here in Teguc before reaching the DPO. We have had numerous packages stolen.
2. What is the availability and cost of household help, and what types of help are typically employed by expatriates?
A full-time housekeeper is about $250-$350/month. We pay our gardener $20 for a half-day per week. Some people employ drivers.
We had to fire 2 housekeepers for a variety of reasons which included stealing, lying, allowing unauthorized people into our house, and mistreating our dog; all had been vetted. Only one of our housekeepers we hired was truly trustworthy. Choose a housekeeper that has been vetted, but don't trust anyone you let into your house. There seems to be a culture amongst Hondurans that since you are American, you are rich, and anything that breaks/gets ruined can be replaced because you are a rich gringo. It feels like this mentality permeates every interaction one will have.
3. What kinds of gyms or other sports/workout facilities are available? Are they expensive?
There are several gyms - standard gyms, CrossFit gyms, the embassy gym, etc. There are also a couple of yoga studios and a pilates studio. Most gyms and classes are cheaper than US prices.
4. Are credit cards widely accepted and safe to use locally? Are ATMs common and do you recommend using them? Are they safe to use?
No issues with credit cards. The only ATM I use is the one at the embassy.
5. What English-language religious services are available locally?
There is a Catholic priest who offers Catholic mass, his embassy parishioners rotate houses where mass is held. There are also some Mormon members of the embassy, but I don't know if their services are in English or Spanish.
6. How much of the local language do you need for daily living? Are local language classes/tutors available and affordable?
Rich Hondurans speak English. In day-to-day life most Hondurans you encounter do not speak English. Some spouses do not speak Spanish, but still get around. There are tutors that charge $10/hour. The embassy has free Spanish lessons, but good luck parking at the embassy.
7. Would someone with physical disabilities have difficulties living in this city?
Yes.
Transportation:
1. Are local buses, trams, trains or taxis safe and affordable?
No. All public transportation, including cabs, are off-limits to embassy community. Most have ties to the gangs, and you are likely to get robbed. There is a cab service the embassy has vetted, and you can text the owner to schedule a ride. Riding with him is affordable, a ride to the airport is about $10.
2. What kind of car do you recommend bringing to post, given the terrain, availability of parts, burglary/carjacking risks, etc.? What kind of car do you advise not to bring?
Bring an SUV; don't bring anything nice. You have an excellent chance of getting in an accident while in-country. The cops and the insurance company will try to get you to pay the other person whether it was your fault or not. One spouse was taken into police custody and held for 6 hours while they tried to get her to pay out of pocket for a motorcyclist's broken arm even though she was not at fault and she had insurance and she had diplomatic immunity. You will have to have your windows tinted. An AID worker was robbed at gunpoint in front of the Intercontinental Hotel because his windows weren't tinted. An LE Staff member was robbed a block from the embassy. I have not heard of any carjackings, but people have been robbed at gunpoint in their vehicles. I'd say there is an incident involving a diplomat or LES that we hear about monthly. Housekeepers are at even more risk of being robbed.
Phone & Internet:
1. Is high-speed home Internet access available? How long does it typically take to install it after arrival?
Yes, through Tigo or Claro. Tigo comes to the embassy once a month and you can pay your Tigo bill at the bank teller in the embassy.
Install takes about 1-2 weeks for home internet. I got my sim card within a week of arrival.
2. Do you have any recommendations regarding mobile phones? Did you keep your home-country plan or use a local provider?
Spend money on an unlocked phone so all you need is a sim card. I kept my US-plan and sim card for frequent trips back to the US for work, and I use Tigo in-country. My husband froze his AT&T account for $0.01/month.
Pets:
1. Are qualified veterinarians and/or good kennel services available? Do animals need to be quarantined upon entry to the country? Are there other considerations regarding pets that are particular to this country?
The veterinarian services are okay, but for anything major I would not trust vet care here. There are no safe kennel services; we heard that the one that was recommended to us was breeding dogs that they were kenneling without the owners' permission or knowledge. One of the embassy teenagers looks after our dog when we are out of town.
There are also no dog parks or anything similar here. Our dog is very bored in our small, walled-in backyard. We take her on walks in the morning in our neighborhood, and that's about it. There are some places you can hike with your dog, but La Tigra national park is not one of them.
There was talk of creating a dog park, and even had a location behind the Discovery School, but nothing ever came of it.
Employment & Volunteer Opportunities:
1. What types of jobs do most expatriate spouses/partners have? Locally based or telecommuting? Full-time or part-time? Can you comment on local salary scales?
Due to the hiring freeze, most EFMs do not have jobs, unless they were hired before the freeze. Some positions are slowly opening up now. It is not likely to find a job on the economy. There are some spouses who telework.
2. What volunteer opportunities are available locally?
Plenty, if you look. This is a very poor country, everyone is looking for a handout. There are "diplomatic lunches" every month that raise money for different organizations and you can network there. There is a girls' home the ambassador's wife used to go to with a group of spouses and they would spend time with the girls, read to them, do crafts, etc. but those trips have stopped since the ambassador and his wife left.
3. What is the typical dress code at work and in public places? Is formal dress ever required?
There is no strict dress code in public, but if you are a woman, I would not wear shorts unless as in my opinion, there was a lot of cat-calling and ogling. There is so much machismo and this country has a high rate of femicide. Despite that, most Honduran women wear tight jeans, tight shirts, tight dresses with short skirts and high heels. Attire at embassy is business casual, but some locals' outfits seem questionable. There are several formal events that diplomats are invited to, men typically wear a tux or their military dress, women in formal gowns.
Health & Safety:
1. Are there personal security concerns to be aware of at this post? Please describe.
I would not walk around the city or drive with windows open or with windows that are not tinted. Crime is crime of opportunity. It is not directed toward Americans, but if you drop your guard, you make yourself a target. Don't have your cellphone out. Don't flash your money around. Don't wear your real jewelry. Be on-guard for motorcyclists approaching your vehicle.
2. Are there any particular health concerns? What is the quality of available medical care? What medical conditions typically require medical evacuation?
Air pollution causes a lot of respiratory problems for people. We're supposed to wash our fruits and vegetable in bleach or vinegar, but we don't do that anymore and haven't had problems. You shouldn't drink the tap water, but you can bathe and brush your teeth with it. I can't speak to available medical care because we haven't needed it but there are a couple private hospitals the embassy recommends. There is a med unit run by an NP or PA and you a local-hire MD that will see minor/acute issues. Most drugs you can get at the pharmacy without a prescription. Most embassy women get medevac'd to the US to have their babies.
I feel the dental care here is bad. I heard a friend went to the dentist who cleaned her teeth with a Waterpik and then told her she had 13 cavities she needed filled. When she saw a dentist in Miami she said her teeth were fine. That same Honduran dentist has performed root canals on some embassy folks; I would question the need.
3. What is the air quality like at post (good/moderate/bad)? Are there seasonal air quality issues? Does the air quality have an impact on health?
Horrible. The air pollution is awful year-round, and really bad during burn season. When my husband and I first got here we got an URI every month for the first 6 months. Tegucigalpa sits in the middle of the mountains, so unless it rains, all the pollution and smoke sits on top of the city. Currently we are in the middle of burn season, and the smoke is so thick you can't see the mountains and every morning the counters and floors are covered in a layer of soot.
4. What do people who suffer from environmental or food allergies need to know?
If you have a real food allergy, I wouldn't trust any restaurants here to correctly or safely prepare your food. For environmental allergies, please see above.
5. Are there any particular mental health issues that tend to crop up at post, such as Seasonal Affective Disorder (winter blues)?
Low morale and depression.
6. What is the overall climate: is it extremely hot or cold, wet or dry, at any time of year, for example?
The climate is the only good thing about Honduras. Mid-80s in the day (up to the 90s in the summer) and 60s-70s at night (down to the 50s in the "winter"). Sunny, sunny, sunny. Rainy season is great because it really only rains at night.
Schools & Children:
1. What is the availability of international schools? What has been your general experience with them, if any?
Most kids go to the American School or Discovery school. I've heard the American school has a bullying problem. I believe there is also a French school.
2. Are preschools available? Day care? Are these expensive? What has been your experience with them, if any? Do the schools provide before- and/or after-school care?
There are lots of preschools, including a Montessori preschool.
Expat Life:
1. What is the relative size of the expatriate community? How would you describe overall morale among expatriates?
Morale is low. Gossip seems to be high. Rumors run rampant and it feels difficult to have a life outside of the embassy community.
2. What are some typical ways to socialize, either with local people or with other expatriates? Are there groups or clubs that you can recommend?
There are a few embassy book clubs, USEPA plans events, most event revolve around the kids. The Marine House is no longer allowed to hold parties (globally), so embassy events for adults are few and far between. There are events around the city that are safe to attend.
3. Is this a good city for single people? For couples? For families? Why or why not?
No, none of the above. There is so little to actually DO in Tegucigalpa. You have to leave the city to do anything remotely entertaining. Copán, La Ceiba, Lago Yojoa, Pico Bonito, and the Bay Islands are all worth traveling to.
4. Is this a good city for LGBT expatriates? Why or why not?
Unknown, but given the machismo in this country, my guess would be this is not an ideal location for an openly gay person.
5. Are there problems with ethnic, race/racial minorities or religious prejudices? Gender equality?
Big gender equality issues. This is a man's country.
6. What have been the highlights of your time in this country? Best trips or experiences?
Coupon ruÃnas and Cayos Cochinos. Not Roatán - it is ultra-touristy and people try to sell you bracelets and tours when you are trying to relax. The diving/snorkeling is incredible.
7. What are some interesting/fun things to do in the area? Can you recommend any “hidden gems"?
There is nothing to do in Tegucigalpa except go to mediocre restaurants, walk around the mall, go to the movies, do something in your own home with friends, or exercise. To do anything worthwhile, you HAVE to leave the city.
8. Is this a "shopping post"? Are there interesting handicrafts, artwork, antiques, or other items that people typically buy there?
Not really. There is Lenca pottery and wood carving. Most other items are made in Guatemala.
9. What are the particular advantages of living in this city?
The weather (except burn season).
Words of Wisdom:
1. What do you wish you had known about this particular city/country before moving there?
That we would be unable to walk around. That there is nothing to do in the city. That morale is so low and the embassy is so inefficient that both my husband and I have hated living and working here.
2. Knowing what you know now, would you still move to this city?
Absolutely not. We would have quit the State Department.
3. If you move here, you can leave behind your:
Winter clothes.
4. But don't forget your:
Surge protectors as electricity cuts in and out daily, sometimes multiple times or for hours at a time with generator backup.
Hiking boots.
5. Do you recommend any books or movies about this city/country for those who are interested in learning more?
Lost City of the Monkey God (not about Teguc, but does touch on some of the socioeconomic issues and narcotrafficking that occurs countrywide).
