Tegucigalpa, Honduras Report of what it's like to live there - 05/14/18
Personal Experiences from Tegucigalpa, Honduras
Background:
1. Was this post your first expatriate experience? If not, what other cities have you lived in as an expat?
No. I've also lived in France, Spain, Benin, and Colombia.
2. What is your home city/country? How long is the trip to post from there, with what connections? How easy/difficult is it to travel to this city/country?
Chicago. Major US airlines fly through Houston, Miami, or Atlanta. They each run only one or two flights a day, and don't want to leave planes in Tegucigalpa overnight. So flights out of the rest of the US leave early, 5-7am, and flights back get back late at night. If you use non-US airlines, especially Avianca, there is a short jaunt to San Salvador or Panama, and then on to your US destination, with lots more flight options and time flexibility.
3. How long have you lived here?
Almost three years.
4. What brought you to this city (e.g. diplomatic mission, business, NGO, military, teaching, retirement, etc.)?
Diplomatic mission.
Housing, Groceries & Food:
1. What is your housing like? What are typical housing sizes, locations, and commute times for expatriates?
A big house (maybe 2500 sf) with decent yard (add another 500 sf). I think this is typical, though different yards have more paved-over or tiled space, and others more green space. Aesthetic leans towards 1970s narco-chic. I have bananas, passion fruit, mango, avocado, herbs, and beautiful flowers that were already growing there when I got here. There is also a nice lawn for the kids to play on. Most housing is surrounded by drab walls and concertina wire, so neighborhoods have a cold, community-less feel to them. Like a lot of US suburbs, but with walls surrounding each house, so you don't see much human life when you're walking around. My wife and I walk to work, and it takes about 15 minutes. On a bike it's like 4 minutes, and in a car can go from 5-10 minutes depending on traffic. Some USG housing is farther away: 40 minutes on foot (though few people walk), and not much less in a car, maybe 30 minutes with traffic.
2. How would you describe the availability and cost of groceries and household supplies relative to your home country?
Great. You can get any US-type goods you need at PriceSmart (a Costco knockoff), or at local grocery stores, of which there are at least two or three within 10 minutes' walk of most USG housing. Cleaning products, peanut butter, processed and frozen junk food--you name it. Both US and local brands. There are fruit stalls at many corners selling a great variety of papayas, mangos, pineapple, oranges, potato, onion, tomatoes, banana, plantain, cassava, sometimes beets, avocado, watermelon, cilantro, carrots, sweet and hot peppers, cantaloupe, passionfruit, mandarins, limes, garlic, cabbage, and I'm probably forgetting some things. I get most leafy vegetables at grocery stores, since roadside stands don't stock them (no refrigeration), but for most other stuff, roadside stands are fresher and cheaper than the grocery store. I have read other complaints about produce, and I don't know what they're talking about. If you want fresh, flavorful produce, it's plentiful. Even if you want underripe, waxed US-style produce, you can get it at any supermarket. Meat is plentiful, both national and from the US.
3. What household or grocery items do you wish you had shipped to post?
None really. Even olive oil is pretty cheap at the Costco knockoff. I do take advantage of trips to the US to stock up on a few things like unscented glycerin soap or certain over-the-counter medicines, which can be cheaper in the US (Cetirizine/Zyrtec, children's acetaminophen, etc.). You can get most stuff here, too, just a few dollars pricier.
4. What typical restaurants, food delivery services, and/or takeout options are popular among expatriates?
There are options for all tastes. There are Honduran-style grill places (even a newly-opened high-end one called La Bonita that offers innovative takes on Honduran classics), all the US junk food joints (Pizza Hut, Popeyes, McDonalds, etc.), lots of excellent ceviche and seafood in general, Peruvian, US-style burger joints, Italian, French, lots of Chinese food (think New York takeout, not ultra-authentic haute Szechuan cuisine). Families like to go to junk food places or a handful of nicer restaurants that have in-house playgrounds, since public parks are scarce in Tegucigalpa.
5. Are there any unusual problems with insects or other infestations in housing?
Little harmless ants everywhere, cockroaches sometimes, often carpenter ants in some furniture. Keeping food covered and/or refrigerated usually keeps down the yucky population.
Some yards and houses seem to have more mosquito presence than others.
Daily Life:
1. How do you send and receive your letters and package mail? Are local postal facilities adequate?
DPO is great. Sometimes political vagaries will hold up mail, but there are times when stuff posted from Florida arrives over a weekend. It can take up to 4 or 5 weeks though too, in either direction.
2. What is the availability and cost of household help, and what types of help are typically employed by expatriates?
Domestic employees are good at cooking and cleaning. Often they're not used to having autonomy and decision-making authority, or thinking through complex instructions or taking the initiative to plan ahead and do what's needed. It was a long (though ultimately very fruitful) process to teach the maid how to separate out compost and recyclables. I feel like people are honest, meaning they don't steal, but they are not necessarily forthright, meaning they may not directly tell you something if they think you're going to get mad. Be respectful, insist on honesty and frankness, and everyone can learn in the process.
The minimum wage varies by profession, and there is no official minimum wage for domestic help. A basic basket of goods required for a family of four (food, healthcare, phone, transport, etc.) amounts to about 8800 lempiras per month, a little less than 400 USD. Most people don't pay that much. Don't be like most people, don't be that guy. If you're reading this, you're probably not paying rent, and, in my opinion, can afford 400 USD a month.
3. What kinds of gyms or other sports/workout facilities are available? Are they expensive?
Gyms at USAID and the US Embassy. Lots of other private gyms available. My kids do swimming classes multiple times a week at Cybex, and we've been thrilled with them.
4. Are credit cards widely accepted and safe to use locally? Are ATMs common and do you recommend using them? Are they safe to use?
Credit cards accepted almost everywhere, though very rarely the transmission network is down so places can't process your payment. ATMs are common and reliable.
5. What English-language religious services are available locally?
Non-denominational Christian services every week at Union Christian Church. The US Embassy organizes a monthly Mass in English with a Franciscan friar who comes down from another town. Plenty of Spanish-language services throughout the city, which are a great way to get to know a specific side of the culture.
6. How much of the local language do you need for daily living? Are local language classes/tutors available and affordable?
Day-to-day life is all done in Spanish, but people are used to dealing with foreigners who don't speak well. Honduran professionals almost all speak English.
7. Would someone with physical disabilities have difficulties living in this city?
Yes. It's very hilly, with poorly-maintained and oft-interrupted sidewalks. In fact, pedestrians in general take like fourth fiddle, even though most Hondurans don't have cars. Tegucigalpa is very much planned for the convenience of motorists, and even when it's not, motorists will take the liberty to park on sidewalks, to drive recklessly, and to bend traffic rules to save a few seconds of waiting.
Transportation:
1. Are local buses, trams, trains or taxis safe and affordable?
Affordable, yes, but RSO advises against using them. The US Embassy has a go-to private taxi service that works great, charging about $5-10 for most trajectories.
2. What kind of car do you recommend bringing to post, given the terrain, availability of parts, burglary/carjacking risks, etc.? What kind of car do you advise not to bring?
Lots of people like SUVs, but they're not strictly necessary. A Toyota Camry has served us well. You will need to know how to navigate pothole-ridden, Third World-style roads, especially if you're traveling to the countryside (which I highly recommend, by the way).
Phone & Internet:
1. Is high-speed home Internet access available? How long does it typically take to install it after arrival?
Yes. Installation takes a few days, as I recall. We pay $55/month (they lock you in for 12-month contracts) for great internet. We stream movies all the time, sometimes multiple movies on different computers.
2. Do you have any recommendations regarding mobile phones? Did you keep your home-country plan or use a local provider?
My work paid for one monthly plan, and I had a personal SIM that I paid as I went. I used a junky, dual-SIM phone instead of lugging around an expensive iPhone that would distract me during meetings and be a target for theft.
Employment & Volunteer Opportunities:
1. What types of jobs do most expatriate spouses/partners have? Locally based or telecommuting? Full-time or part-time? Can you comment on local salary scales?
Lots of embassy jobs. If you speak Spanish well you can work for development implementers, the UN, etc. Also, lots of demand for English-speaking teachers, as almost all private schools are conducted mainly in English.
2. What volunteer opportunities are available locally?
You can volunteer in NGOs, at schools, at hospitals. If you see a place you think may need help with something, by all means offer your help. A lot of places, even those without established volunteer programs, would be thrilled to work with you.
3. What is the typical dress code at work and in public places? Is formal dress ever required?
Pretty laid-back culture for men's dress. Even high officials of the Honduran government go to lots of meetings without a suit or tie. Women can be laid-back too, but there may be stronger cultural expectations for women to be made-up and use inconveniently high heels (think the kind that make you walk in little mincing steps like your feet are bound).
Health & Safety:
1. Are there personal security concerns to be aware of at this post? Please describe.
Both expats and middle-class Hondurans seem to freak out about security. As an expat you'll mainly be moving around in the safest parts of the city, with armed guards posted every 50 meters or so. My wife and I have walked to and from work every day for three years now without incident. We walk all over the city with our kids, also without incident. Sometimes people get robbed in their car or while walking (more often in their car). Getting robbed is not the same as getting killed, which you've got about zero risk of as an expat who doesn't resist a robbery. All over the world, people lose their iPhones or their wallet from time to time, and it's a hassle, but not an existential threat. That's how crime is for expats in Tegucigalpa.
2. Are there any particular health concerns? What is the quality of available medical care? What medical conditions typically require medical evacuation?
Great health care. Lots of English speakers if you want them, but also very qualified Spanish speakers. We've had major dental surgery done here (maybe $600 total for bone implants, gum reconstruction, and two porcelain tooth implants), and had a Cesarean birth (less than $3000 for the entire hospital bill). Don't always expect things to look flashy, but there will be all the equipment you need: ultrasounds, MRIs, operating theaters, anesthetics, etc.
Tegucigalpa's mountain climate precludes many tropical diseases. No malaria here, or in most of Honduras, for that matter. Zika/dengue/chikungunya are always a concern, though the public health system has done a great job of controlling them. Mosquitoes are not overwhelming for most of the day, most of the year, or in most expat neighborhoods in Tegucigalpa.
3. What is the air quality like at post (good/moderate/bad)? Are there seasonal air quality issues? Does the air quality have an impact on health?
Allergy sufferers will have some problems here. Lots of pollen, some mold, a fair amount of humidity from maybe May to November (rainy season), then an abrupt drop in temperature, with lots of wind and dust from Nov-February (cold, dry season), then March-May gets hot, dry, and smoky. But from what I hear, even the worst smoky days in Tegucigalpa aren't like the norm in Jakarta or Beijing. More like a bad smog day in LA.
4. What do people who suffer from environmental or food allergies need to know?
See above.
Food allergies are problematic. The general populace doesn't have a very high educational level, so it is difficult for restaurant staff to make fine distinctions and execute critical thinking functions about what specific ingredients may be in a given food.
Likewise, if you are a strict vegetarian or only eat Halal or something, you'll have problems eating out. There may be lard in seemingly vegetarian things like refried beans (though what most people call "lard" is often actually palm oil shortening). If you aren't too picky it'll be fine. In my opinion, an accidental ingestion of a bit of pork now and then won't kill you or significantly increase your carbon footprint. And I think God will understand.
5. Are there any particular mental health issues that tend to crop up at post, such as Seasonal Affective Disorder (winter blues)?
I've seen a lot of people who have a great time here, and also a lot of people who complain to the point that it becomes compulsive and gets them and everyone around them down. I think that it's a culture shock for a lot of people to be somewhere so similar to the US in so many ways (car-based culture, malls, Popeye's chicken, American football while you eat wings at a sports bar), but yet frustratingly different. It's different enough for you to get annoyed at the little quirks (how people drive, or aren't direct when they talk to you, or stuff like that), but not different enough to feel exotic and interesting.
As for clinical Seasonal Affective Disorder (SAD), there is a fair amount of sunshine here year-round, so I don't imagine it's a big problem.
6. What is the overall climate: is it extremely hot or cold, wet or dry, at any time of year, for example?
Pleasantly warm and sunny most of the year, with cooling afternoon showers. Spells of higher 90s in April and May, and sometimes brutal, cold wind (down to the 50s or 40s) for a while between November and February.
Schools & Children:
1. What is the availability of international schools? What has been your general experience with them, if any?
Lots of great school options. Discovery, Happy Faces, Abejitas, Del Campo, American School, Dowal School, Elvel, Macris, Lyceo Franco-Hondureno, and lots more. Most schools are almost exclusively in English. If you want your kids to learn Spanish better, go off the beaten track of Discovery or American School. Lots of good extracurriculars inside and outside of schools. My kids have done classes in ballet, cooking, music, folkloric dance, swimming, soccer, and chess.
2. What accommodations do schools make for special-needs kids?
I think there is will, but not always money. If you're a USG employee, this shouldn't be a problem, since there should be a budget approved for you to get an aide for your child. But short of this, many schools seem to be reluctant to take kids with Downs Syndrome, for instance. Kids with more physical, as opposed to mental, special needs seem to be more well-integrated in schools.
Happy Faces preschool is great at accommodating all types of special-needs kids, though they may not necessarily have an individualized learning plan like many would want in the US. They seem to be more about integrating kids with the rest of the class, and making adjustments to lessons in real time as needed for the specific kid.
3. Are preschools available? Day care? Are these expensive? What has been your experience with them, if any? Do the schools provide before- and/or after-school care?
Yes, Happy Faces, Abejitas, plus many higher-grade schools have preschool divisions. They tend to be cheap, many have long hours (with half-day options too), and are very loving. If you want your kid to start prepping for the Ivy League when she's three, these will not satisfy you. If you want your kid to feel loved and valued and learn how to interact with other human beings, you'll be thrilled.
We pay like $420 a month for Happy Faces, which includes bus pickup from our house at 7:30am, classes in the morning, extracurriculars in the afternoon, and a bus dropoff around 5pm. About a third to a fifth of what you'd pay in the US.
4. Are local sports classes and/or activities available for kids?
Yes, both inside and outside of schools. Martial arts are big, in addition to more traditional team sports. There are even chess and breakdancing classes at different parks and cultural centers.
Expat Life:
1. What is the relative size of the expatriate community? How would you describe overall morale among expatriates?
There are lots of expats, but it doesn't feel like a community apart. There are non-diplomats from many countries that live long-term in Honduras for a number of personal and professional reasons. You will also have lots of colleagues, school parents, etc. that are Honduran professionals, and they are happy to be your friend if you're a nice, interesting person. You can hang out mainly with expats, mainly with Hondurans, mainly with Honduran-Americans, or with a mix thereof.
I think expats have good morale. If they've lived in other developing countries, they appreciate all the comforts and amenities they have in Honduras.
2. What are some typical ways to socialize, either with local people or with other expatriates? Are there groups or clubs that you can recommend?
There are cultural centers, museums, and theaters like the Alliance Francaise, the Centro Cultural Espanol, Grupo Teatral Bambu, Centro de Cultura Garifuna, Mujeres en las Artes, Teatro Las Memorias, Museo de Identidad Nacional, Cafe El Paradiso, Teatro Manuel Bonilla, Galeria Nacional de Arte, Chiminike, La Filarmonica de Honduras. Contrary to what many people think, you can do something cultural every night if you are so inclined. There is high-quality live theater at least three nights every week, a symphony concert at least once a month, kid workshops every Saturday morning, book fairs, intellectual talks, poetry readings, etc.
There are historic colonial churches downtown, parks like La Leona, El Trapiche, La Hermandad, and Juana Lainez. As you get out and about, you'll run into new people and recurring people, and can form friendships that way.
If you want to stay at the mall all the time, that's your prerogative, but don't say there's nothing to do in Tegucigalpa!
3. Is this a good city for single people? For couples? For families? Why or why not?
Tegucigalpa and Honduras in general are very centered on family. Kids are omnipresent, from restaurants to church to the street to the beach. If you have kids, you'll find a lot of things to your liking.
I imagine that it can be lonely to be single here, since families fold in on themselves and don't admit many outsiders. That said, if you get out to the cultural events you can meet other single people. It seems to me that male-female nonromantic or nonfamily relationships are rare here, so that may be hard to navigate if you're looking to meet people without looking for a romantic partner.
4. Are there problems with ethnic, race/racial minorities or religious prejudices? Gender equality?
Women are subject to lots of harassment on the street. Gay and transgender people are hassled and threatened (though the worst abuses are in poor neighborhoods, not in posh expat quarters). Ladino Hondurans are subtly prejudiced against indigenous people and blacks; black expats may inhabit a space between the excessive deference Hondurans give to foreigners, and their reticence towards Honduran blacks.
5. What have been the highlights of your time in this country? Best trips or experiences?
Copan Ruinas, Amapala, Gracias, Panacam park, caves of Taulabe and Talgua have been excellent trips.
Local jaunts to La Tigra park for camping and hiking have been wonderful experiences with my kids.
I've enjoyed the challenge of discovering all the fun things to do in Tegucigalpa, beyond the typical line that there's nothing but malls and drive-throughs.
Being in Honduras is a luxury in the Foreign Service; it's close to the States, it's got enough familiar things to keep you from getting homesick, the electrical outlets are the same. My mother got to visit us a lot more than she would have if we'd lived in Africa or Australia. She appreciated the no-hassle flight, the lovely weather, just sitting around in a lush garden.
6. What are some interesting/fun things to do in the area? Can you recommend any “hidden gems"?
I've mentioned a lot of things elsewhere in this report, but for Tegucigalpa you have to mention La Tigra, Ojojona, Santa Lucia, Valle de Angeles, in addition to all the museums, parks, and theaters cited above.
Radio El Progreso is a wild radio station. Most of its programming is bachata, reggaeton, and ranchera music. But it is run by Jesuits, so this lowbrow music is peppered with incisive political commentary and investigative reporting, all with a progressive Catholic tinge. In the span of five minutes you can hear Daddy Yankee rapping about a woman's butt, a reminder that Christ came to free the world from injustice, and then a criticism of the corruption prevalent in the National Party.
7. Is this a "shopping post"? Are there interesting handicrafts, artwork, antiques, or other items that people typically buy there?
You have to dig a bit. If you do, you'll find bright Lenca weaving, a diverse array of pottery (you can even make some yourself), good woodwork, delicious coffee, colorful paintings, jade, stone statues, Garifuna drums, straw hats, gold filigree. Get a suit or a dress made, too. Like Honduran cuisine, the handicrafts may seem bland at first, but if you dig deeper, you can find some really cool stuff beyond the normal offering in the souvenir shops.
8. What are the particular advantages of living in this city?
Great weather, short commutes, US-style food and stores, lots of kid activities, great schools that will expose your kids to a foreign culture without feeling too alien.
Words of Wisdom:
1. What do you wish you had known about this particular city/country before moving there?
Hondurans love pickled stuff. You can get great relish, sauerkraut, etc. with every meal, if you're so inclined.
Hondurans know a lot about US culture. Not just like Mickey Mouse and Michael Jordan. I'm talking reruns of What's Happening Now, David Bowie in "Labyrinth", 1980s baseball, really obscure stuff.
It actually gets pretty cold from November to February.
There's no municipal gas, so cooking is all electric. Power outages are infrequent, but can sometimes stop your meal in its tracks.
You have to work a bit to get to really know things. The food seems bland until you get beyond the most common offerings. The city seems like malls and cars until you find all the theaters and bookstores. The people come off as cold and unemotional until they open up to you and become very generous friends.
2. Knowing what you know now, would you still move to this city?
Yes. It isn't as exotic as some might like, and it isn't as comfortable as others might like. But I think it's a great combination of a lot of things.
3. If you move here, you can leave behind your:
Hopes to get away from US culture.
Intolerance for other ways of thinking and doing things.
4. But don't forget your:
Curiosity, willingness to dig below the surface, benefit of the doubt.
5. Do you recommend any books or movies about this city/country for those who are interested in learning more?
Where to start? "To be a revolutionary" by Jim Carney, "Inevitable Revolutions" by Walter LaFeber, "Culture and Customs of Honduras" by Janet Gold, "Prision Verde" and "Cipotes" by Ramon Amaya Amador, "A Camera in the Garden of Eden" by Kevin Coleman, "Narrativa hondurena: Antologia" published by Alfaguara.
