Milan, Italy Report of what it's like to live there - 12/10/08
Personal Experiences from Milan, Italy
Background:
1. Was this post your first expatriate experience? If not, what other cities have you lived in as an expat?
Yes.
2. How long have you lived here?
8 years.
3. What brought you to this city (e.g. diplomatic mission, business, NGO, military, teaching, retirement, etc.)?
Moved for love.
4. Travel time and best routes to this city from Europe or the US:
8 hours to the east coast. Better cash in those Alitalia miles quickly, though!
Housing, Groceries & Food:
1. What is your housing like? What are typical housing sizes, locations, and commute times for expatriates?
Almost entirely apartments. We live about 10 minutes outside the city, in the suburbs. More space, more green, more quiet.
2. How would you describe the availability and cost of groceries and household supplies relative to your home country?
Hard to find sour cream, cheddar cheese, oatmeal, and shiitake mushrooms. Everything else is pretty available.
3. What household or grocery items do you wish you had shipped to post?
Cheddar cheese, shiitake mushrooms, oatmeal.
4. What typical restaurants, food delivery services, and/or takeout options are popular among expatriates?
Anyone who's looking for fast food in Italy needs to rethink their priorities. That said, there's a lot of good Italian restaurants here (duh!), but say goodbye to Thai food! There are a handful of Mexican joints (about as good as in your local mall, i.e. not very) and some good, pricey Japanese. There are some cheaper Japanese places, mostly run by Chinese people; cooked food is generally fine, sushi is riskier.
Daily Life:
1. How do you send and receive your letters and package mail? Are local postal facilities adequate?
2. What is the availability and cost of household help, and what types of help are typically employed by expatriates?
We pay €9/hour.
3. Are credit cards widely accepted and safe to use locally? Are ATMs common and do you recommend using them? Are they safe to use?
Uh, they work!
4. What English-language religious services are available locally?
I'm an atheist.
5. English-language newspapers and TV available? Cost?
Sky satellite has a lot of English-language shows and movies; generally you can choose to watch it in English. Foreign magazines are expensive (People is €7.10; I just paid almost €30 for three British music magazines) though Newsweek and Time are a little cheaper (I think around €4).
6. How much of the local language do you need for daily living? Are local language classes/tutors available and affordable?
It will certainly help you to feel less isolated.
7. Would someone with physical disabilities have difficulties living in this city?
Transportation:
1. Do you drive on the right hand side of the road or the left?
The law encourages driving on the right-hand side, though I've come to think that may be more of a suggestion. Creativity is encouraged when parking.
2. Are local buses, trams, trains or taxis safe and affordable?
Yes.
3. What kind of car do you recommend bringing to post, given the terrain, availability of parts, burglary/carjacking risks, etc.? What kind of car do you advise not to bring?
The smaller the better.
Phone & Internet:
1. Is high-speed home Internet access available? How long does it typically take to install it after arrival?
Yes, Fastweb.
2. Do you have any recommendations regarding mobile phones? Did you keep your home-country plan or use a local provider?
Italians sure do love 'em!
3. What is the best way to make phone calls back home?
Skype is free.
Pets:
1. Quality pet care available (vets & kennels)?
Yep.
Employment & Volunteer Opportunities:
1. What types of jobs do most expatriate spouses/partners have? Locally based or telecommuting? Full-time or part-time? Can you comment on local salary scales?
I suppose. People are generally impressed by Americans.
2. What is the typical dress code at work and in public places? Is formal dress ever required?
Italians are pretty snappy dressers. You don't have to stock up on Gucci or Dolce, but it helps.
Health & Safety:
1. Pollution index (Good, Moderate, Unhealthy, or Very Unhealthy)?
Cough cough. The air in Milan is probably better than Mexico City, but not by a whole lot. In winter, the city is occasionally closed to all traffic to help the smog.
2. Are there personal security concerns to be aware of at this post? Please describe.
It's a city; be aware. There are some areas of the city where you don't want to walk around alone after dark, but not many people walk in Milan anyway.
3. Are there any particular health concerns? What is the quality of available medical care? What medical conditions typically require medical evacuation?
Medical care seems fine.
4. What is the overall climate: is it extremely hot or cold, wet or dry, at any time of year, for example?
Summer is hot, particularly July and August (though everyone goes away for August), winter is dreary--grey and foggy. You don't see the sun for about four months (no kidding!)
Schools & Children:
1. What is the availability of international schools? What has been your general experience with them, if any?
2. What accommodations do schools make for special-needs kids?
3. Are preschools available? Day care? Are these expensive? What has been your experience with them, if any? Do the schools provide before- and/or after-school care?
Expat Life:
1. What is the relative size of the expatriate community? How would you describe overall morale among expatriates?
2. Morale among expats:
Resigned.
3. What are some typical ways to socialize, either with local people or with other expatriates? Are there groups or clubs that you can recommend?
Pretty good. There are a fair number of clubs for dancing or live music. La Scala is world famous for opera and dance. Like most of Europe, the Arts are generally well supported, though it does take a bit of effort to find out what's going on.
4. Is this a good city for single people? For couples? For families? Why or why not?
Probably better for singles and couples than families.
5. Is this a good city for LGBT expatriates? Why or why not?
It's comparable to a mid-sized U.S. city, though Italians are generally more, shall we say, discreet about being gay (hello, Vatican!). Milan is the fashion capital of Italy so the scene is a little more "fashiony" but there are a variety of bars and clubs from which to choose.
6. Are there problems with ethnic, race/racial minorities or religious prejudices? Gender equality?
Italy is pretty monocultural so anything "other" is not particularly welcome (this applies to people, food, ideas in general). East European or Mid-Eastern and Eastern European immigrants are generally perceived as criminals (and sometimes are). Sexism is kind of normal here, in the jokey, grab-a-woman's-breasts-or-ass kind of way.
7. What are some interesting/fun things to do in the area? Can you recommend any “hidden gems"?
Leave town! The good thing about Milan is that the mountains, lakes and sea are pretty easily accessible, though weekend traffic can be a nightmare.
8. Is this a "shopping post"? Are there interesting handicrafts, artwork, antiques, or other items that people typically buy there?
Food and fashion.
9. Can you save money?
Not if you hang out in the "Golden Quadrangle" (shopping area with Prada, Dolce, Armani, etc).
Words of Wisdom:
1. Knowing what you know now, would you still move to this city?
There are certainly other European cities I'd choose before Milan.
2. If you move here, you can leave behind your:
3. But don't forget your:
Sunglasses. Even if it's pouring rain!
4. Do you recommend any books or movies about this city/country for those who are interested in learning more?
5. Do you recommend any books or movies about this city/country for those who are interested in learning more?
6. Recommended movies/DVDs related to this city:
7. Do you have any other comments?
Coming from NYC, it was a bit of a shock to be in such a monocultural city.