Durban, South Africa Report of what it's like to live there - 09/19/24
Personal Experiences from Durban, South Africa
Background:
1. Was this post your first expatriate experience? If not, what other cities have you lived in as an expat?
No. Spain and Japan as a kid. Chortkiv (Ukraine) with the Peace Corps. China and Cambodia as a graduate student. As diplomats with the U.S. State Department, our family has lived in Nuevo Laredo (Mexico), Santo Domingo (Dominican Republic), and Yangon (Myanmar/Burma).
2. What is your home city/country? How long is the trip to post from there, with what connections? How easy/difficult is it to travel to this city/country?
We have family spread across the U.S. but primarily make home bases Florida and Colorado. It's a long trip to get to Durban, South Africa, but worth it! There are direct flights from Atlanta or JFK to Johannesburg, then a short flight to Durban from there. Another major hub in South Africa is Capetown, with plenty of direct flights from the US to Capetown. A flight from Capetown to Durban is fewer than 4 hours.
3. What years did you live here?
2022-2025.
4. How long have you lived here?
Just over two years.
5. What brought you to this city (e.g. diplomatic mission, business, NGO, military, teaching, retirement, etc.)?
Diplomatic mission.
Housing, Groceries & Food:
1. What is your housing like? What are typical housing sizes, locations, and commute times for expatriates?
A mix of single family homes, apartments and town homes. Most of us live in single family homes about 30 minutes away from the Central Business District (CBD), in residential neighborhoods. These homes have a pool and nice size yard. Homes provided by the US diplomatic mission are also equipped with grates on windows and doors, alarm systems, and electric fences. Most locals with means also have some form of basic security features installed on their homes. Commutes are longer during standard rush hours, but they aren't ever at a full stop unless there is a traffic accidents on one of the major roads. Durban is like a city with a small town feel and it doesn't take long to get most places.
2. How would you describe the availability and cost of groceries and household supplies relative to your home country?
More affordable with a wide array of imported products. You can get most items here, or something similar (e.g., Goldfish crackers versus penguin crackers). We shop at Woolworths and Checkers grocery stores, but Pick and Pay and Spar also have different products, for instance, when we want American Hellman's mayo, we go to Spar. The packaging on all the produce is intense, with lots of plastic and styrofoam.
We do try to visit the farmers markets and buy seasonal from time to time, but it's not always feasible with our work schedules. There are plenty of household cleaning supplies; perhaps less variety than in the US, but it's available and works. All the grocery stores have delivery, which is quite easy through their apps.
There are two Asian grocery stores in Durban North: variety of imported goods, homemade tofu, handmade dumplings, etc.
3. What household or grocery items do you wish you had shipped to post?
Sometimes I get Mexican corn tortillas shipped to post and brown sugar. With that said, you can find moscavado sugar easily and it subs in for brown sugar easily, when making American chocolate chip cookies for instance. We go camping a lot, so we do have graham crackers and American marshmallows shipped every so often for s'mores, You can find comparable items, but it doesn't quite taste like home. Near Thanksgiving, I have ordered canned pumpkin (although there is plenty of fresh pumpkin and squash to use as well).
4. What typical restaurants, food delivery services, and/or takeout options are popular among expatriates?
There is a wide variety of restaurants, and there is something for everyone. Don't expect the Japanese or Mexican eateries to taste authentic, but they are good in their own way. Plenty of coffee shops and cafe restaurants around every part of town. South Africa likes it pop up coffee shops and cappuccinos are possibly the most popular order. Take out is easy with Uber Eats or Mr. Delivery.
5. Are there any unusual problems with insects or other infestations in housing?
No major problems that we've noted....just lessons learned.
During certain times of the year, easels (a type of large flying termite) come out/hatch from underground and are attracted to lights. They came up from under our drive way pavers. We learned our first year to keep all the lights off inside the house and you won't get any banging on your windows. In the morning, all that's left are thousands of wings to sweep up. The monkeys, birds, and lizards eat any bits of the bug left over. Our kids and us enjoyed watching the nighttime feast - it was like watching National Geographic live.
At times we get a few mosquitoes, but closing the windows solves the temporary problem.
Monkeys are clever and will get into your trash bins if you don't keep them locked. They occasionally turn over our compost bin and taunt our dog, but in general they stay out of our yard because we have the dog. Sometimes they sit in the kitchen window and stare longingly at the bananas and other fruit hanging in the basket. It's not advised or allowed to feed them.
Daily Life:
1. How do you send and receive your letters and package mail? Are local postal facilities adequate?
No reliable local mail services. Even locals will use private mail couriers, such as DHL to send/receive mail. We have access to the diplomatic pouch for receiving packing and sending mail; it can take a couple weeks, but it gets here.
2. What is the availability and cost of household help, and what types of help are typically employed by expatriates?
Household help is available and affordable. If you have very specific preferences, you'll need to be clear from the start and provide some hands-on training. We have hired a local housekeeper who doubles as a nanny and babysitter in the afternoons until we are home from work. We have also hired a local driver who has her own big van/bus to take the kids to/from school on the days that we can't. We also have a gardener once a week, as the yard is big and has lots of plants we don't have the time or knowledge to care for them. Some people also hire pool cleaners.
An employment contract is recommended, so please follow local labor laws. We pay our gardener about $20/day. The housekeeper/nanny received about $400/month, plus overtime for any extra hours or tasks we request. There are quarters for household help attached to most homes. Most full time domestic help want to live in during the week as transportation can be far from home and/or costly. Our maid's room has a shower/toilet and we've outfitted it with a TV, bedside tables and a small kitchenette area with dishes, hot plate, microwave, etc.
3. Do you feel that it is safe to walk, run or hike outside? Are there areas where bike riding is possible? What is the availability and safety of outdoor space for exercising? Are these easily accessible?
Yes. You have to stay aware and don't flash valuables, but it is safe to walk around residential neighborhoods and other nearby towns during daylight hours (which starts at 4:30 am in the summer). The only place which is truly unsafe at all hours is the Durban Central Business District (CBD). We frequent the beachfront (Addington Beach and North Beach) which runs parallel to the CBD, but only during day light hours and we don't stray from the action packed promenade and beach.
There are few areas to walk/hike in the vicinity. They are more like nature reserves with some groomed paths, but they get the job done. Less than an hour away there are more serious walks/hikes. Three hours away and you are in the Drakensberg mountains, which have an endless amount of trails waiting to be discovered. Some easy, some moderate, and some challenging, and all beautiful!
I'm a surfer, so most of my exercising takes places in the ocean and on the beach. There are frequent ocean swims (1 mile, 800 meter, 2 mile distances). My husband cycles and has found a local cycling group he joins every so often. There are park runs dotted all around the city. We have a lot of local friends mostly through our sports activities.
4. What kinds of gyms or other sports/workout facilities are available? Are they expensive?
Durban is an active city!
There are a few chain style gyms with weight rooms, pools, locker rooms, fitness classes, etc. Also a few smaller private places sprinkled in. There are two really nice salt water lap pools, one which is located on the beach front.
The Golden Mile and Umhlanga promenade are busy with cyclists, walkers, runners, skateboarders daily and especially on the weekends. Use during daylight hours only; it is beautiful and right on the beach front.
5. Are credit cards widely accepted and safe to use locally? Are ATMs common and do you recommend using them? Are they safe to use?
Yes, credit cards are widely accepted. ATMs are available, but be smart about which ones you use. ATM scams are common. We also really like Zapper, an app that lets you scan QR code on the bill and pay with your credit card.
6. What English-language religious services are available locally?
Not sure. A few of the local churches have coffee shops open to the public with playgrounds for kids, so I've been to a few, but haven't inquired about their services. I'd assume most are in English, with some churches offering services primarily in Afrikaans or Zulu, depending on the neighborhood.
7. How much of the local language do you need for daily living? Are local language classes/tutors available and affordable?
English works everywhere, but some Zulu greetings will get you some smiles from locals. You'll also learn some Afrikaans without knowing it, like the local word for BBQ is "Braai." Some family members at Post take Zulu language classes for fun and as a way to understand another part of South African culture.
8. Would someone with physical disabilities have difficulties living in this city?
There are limited sidewalks and ramps. South Africa is likely more accessible than most countries in the region, but it's not comparable to the US. Major malls and shopping areas have easy access and elevators to aid persons with physical disabilities.
Transportation:
1. Are local buses, trams, trains or taxis safe and affordable?
Affordable, yes. We can use Uber safely. No other forms of transportation are encouraged or permitted.
2. What kind of vehicle(s) including electric ones do you recommend bringing to post, given the terrain, infrastructure, availability of parts, burglary/carjacking risks, etc.? What kind of car or vehicles do you advise not to bring?
They drive on the other side of road here, so buy a car upon your arrival. We have a small fuel-efficient car for city travel, as well as a bigger Toyota Fortuner (Forerunner) for day trips and long weekends out of the city. Unpaved roads are common, pot holes, flooding, etc., are all part of the reality and adventure.
Phone & Internet:
1. Is high-speed home Internet access available? How long does it typically take to install it after arrival?
Available. They are very responsive via email and with any issues that may arrive. Installation took less than one day. No complaints.
2. Do you have any recommendations regarding mobile phones? Did you keep your home-country plan or use a local provider?
Easy to get a local sim -if you have a dual sim phone, then you can keep your US number for Whatsapp, etc.
Pets:
1. Are qualified veterinarians and/or good kennel services available? Do animals need to be quarantined upon entry to the country? Are there other considerations regarding pets that are particular to this country?
Veterinarians are available. We haven't used an kenneling services, but a former colleague did and said it was a like a spa for their 80 lb dog. They had to leave their dog in the kennel while the transferred out of Durban and then hired a local pet shipper to help get the dog out of Durban a couple months afterwards.
There is no quarantine. It is highly complex to get your pet into South Africa, but it is doable. Start the process early and double check every step of the process. Trust your vet in the US, hire a US pet shipper (it's required) and the pet must go via cargo. Hiring a South African pet shipper to import the dog is optional, but will make the process easier. We had a family member ship our dog two weeks after our arrival since we were in a hotel at first and hotels do not allow pets. Reminder: START EARLY!
Employment & Volunteer Opportunities:
1. What types of jobs do most expatriate spouses/partners have? Locally based or telecommuting? Full-time or part-time? Can you comment on local salary scales?
There are 2-3 part time jobs at the Consulate for family members. If you are a licensed teacher, you could possibly teach at one of the local private schools, but Durban does not have international schools, and therefore, you would likely need to acquire a South African teaching license.
2. What volunteer opportunities are available locally?
My daughter and I volunteer once/week to read English language books to a group of Zulu speaking children. Sometimes I design specific lessons around the week's book choice. Another family at post volunteers regularly with their church. There are plenty of causes to get involved in!
3. What is the typical dress code at work and in public places? Is formal dress ever required?
Durban is giant beach town and it's quite casual. It's really a personal decision, and determined by where you work. Some cultures here to do dress up when going to the mall and dining out, for instance.
Health & Safety:
1. Are there personal security concerns to be aware of at this post? Please describe.
Yes, violent crime is common, mostly concentrated in the Central Business District and low income/make shift housing neighborhoods. Our neighborhoods are targets of crime, which is why we have layers of security (electric fence, grates on windows/doors, motion sensors, alarms, etc.) and when used properly, we feel safe.
Don't walk around with your cell phone in plain sight or with expensive valuables in certain areas. Don't stop at red lights with your phone in the dash in some areas. Don't leave your purse on the passenger seat of your vehicle. Check the Department of State's travel warning in the region to gain some more insight. You can do almost everything safely if you remain aware.
2. Are there any particular health concerns? What is the quality of available medical care? What medical conditions typically require medical evacuation?
Quality private hospitals with all essential services. We've had a a positive experience for kids and adults. Use private ambulances if required and save the phone numbers in your phone.
3. What is the air quality like at post (good/moderate/bad)? Are there seasonal air quality issues? Does the air quality have an impact on health?
Overall good! We're right on the coast, so it's breezy and fresh. There are occasional water quality issues at some beaches, as the pump stations are outdated and require frequent maintenance. Check the local water test results before swimming, if it's a concern for you. Durban is a major port, so expect some areas of high pollution, especially in the harbor. Get out of the city north or south and it's nothing but clear water and beautiful seas.
4. What do people who suffer from environmental or food allergies need to know?
Nothing I am aware of.
5. Are there any particular mental health issues that tend to crop up at post, such as Seasonal Affective Disorder (winter blues)?
No. Winter cools of a bit with milder temperatures, but nothing more than a light jacket is required. We swim at the beach year around!
6. What is the overall climate: is it extremely hot or cold, wet or dry, at any time of year, for example?
It's humid year around with a short rainy season in the spring. It's hot in the summer, but escaping to the Drakensberg mountains to swim in the rivers is refreshing. Locals and anyone with a low tolerance for cooler temperatures may say it's cold, but a light jacket is all you will need. It does get cold and snow and in the mountains.
Schools & Children:
1. What is the availability of international schools? What has been your general experience with them, if any?
There is no equivalent of an international school in Durban. You can find public, private and "semi" private schools. The most well known private schools in the area are Crawford International (La Lucia), and Reddam House - both go from pre school through high school. They have separate buildings on the same campus for the different grade ranges. All the schools use a South African curriculum. There are a handful of other good schools in the area.
Crawford emphasizes academics and has limited support services, in my opinion. That does not mean the teachers don't care - they are just limited in what they can do. You only get to compete with the sports teams if you are selected for being good- this starts in grade 1. Each student must have his/her own iPad starting from 1st grade. The preschool- Kindergarten school is lovely and has great teachers. The grade 1-7 school is bit more formal and makes efforts to get to know each student. We don't have high school age kids, but the previous family didn't have any complaints. It is located in La Lucia/Umhlanga area which is an area of "luxury." It's common to see multiple extravagant cars and sports cars on the campus.
Reddam is similar to Crawford, but is especially proud of their music program and highlights their library program. Their pre school-kindergarten facilities are incredible and are set up to let the kids explore and play. I don't know much about the other grades. I've heard recent rumors they are banning iPads for younger grades.
2. What accommodations do schools make for special-needs kids?
We only know about Crawford. Our daughter struggles academically in some areas and we don't feel like we always get the support or timely communication we need to assist. It's been a fine school, and absent her unique struggles, we might not have any issues with the school. She enjoys going to school, is happy and has lots of friends.
3. Are preschools available? Day care? Are these expensive? What has been your experience with them, if any? Do the schools provide before- and/or after-school care?
Pre schools are available. Our son went to a small Montessori school for sox months before he was old enough to join the pre school located at Crawford (the same school as our daughter). Some of the churches have small preschools too.
The South African school calendar runs January-December, so school is year around, broken into terms with 1-5 week breaks in between each term. The December break is the longest break with about 5 weeks off from mid December until mid January. Very few places offer camps during the weeks off from school - they call the camps "holiday clubs." It has been tricky with two working parents to find coverage, but luckily our nanny/babysitter helps, they go to friend's houses and we take leave at the same time the kids have school breaks. It's inconvenient, but manageable.
Most schools have after care until 5 pm.
4. Are local sports classes and/or activities available for kids?
Yes. Lot of options. Soccer, gymnastics, dance, karate, piano, guitar, swimming, etc. Our kids take skateboarding lessons at the skatepark on the weekends, and also participate in one of the lifesaving club's nippers programs to teach about confidence in the ocean.
Expat Life:
1. What is the relative size of the expatriate community? How would you describe overall morale among expatriates?
Small if speaking only about Americans. We rarely meet another American. There are a handful of other international students in our kids' classes at school. Durban is not a hub for expats, but locals are very welcoming and genuinely interested in why we are here.
2. What are some typical ways to socialize, either with local people or with other expatriates? Are there groups or clubs that you can recommend?
We have made lots of local friends through the beach/surfing culture and our kids' friends. My husband started brewing beer while here, so he's met a community of brewers we socialize with quarterly. He also joined a local cycling group. We met another family at a cricket match and have been hiking and camping with them. We frequent the local rugby matches with various friends groups: Durban Sharks! We haven't really made a specific effort to meet locals, but in doing the activities we love, we have fallen into some great friendships. This speaks to how friendly and welcoming the Durban community is.
3. Is this a good city for single people? For couples? For families? Why or why not?
For anyone and everyone! Durban, but especially the province of Kwazulu Natal, has so much to explore. It's a hidden gem in our opinion.
4. Is it easy to make friends with locals here? Are there any prejudices or any ethnic groups who might feel uncomfortable here?
It's very easy to make friends with locals. Durban is a multi ethnic, multi cultural city. Every so often you will hear a racially charged comment from one identity group about another, but it's from a place of ignorance, not hate.
5. Is this a good city for LGBT expatriates? Why or why not?
I think so. We have met a few LGBT locals and everyone appears to be accepting and inclusive.
6. Are there problems with ethnic, race/racial minorities or religious prejudices? Gender equality?
Again, Durban is a multi ethnic, multi cultural city, and like anywhere around the world some people harbor prejudices, but on the whole, Durban is an accepting place. There are churches and mosques sprinkled all around the area as well as a couple temples and synagogues.
Women are valued and seen in prominent government roles, as well as business owners. It's not where it should be, but it's getting better.
7. What have been the highlights of your time in this country? Best trips or experiences?
Too many to list! Road trip to Mozambique. Access to surfing (I surf before work 2-3 day/week and every weekend). Local rugby matches. Beautiful beach and mountain day trips and weekend getaways. Game park/safari for the Big 5 (Hluhluwe iMflozi is just over 2 hours away), St. Lucia is 3 hours away and has a great river tour for hippos, crocs and birds galore. The Garden Route. We've gone to Capetown twice - absolutely stunning.
We have plans to do Kruger National Park, Namibia and Victoria falls before we leave the region in 2025.
8. What are some interesting/fun things to do in the area? Can you recommend any “hidden gems"?
If you like camping, Hermits Wood in Garden Castle Drakensberg is the definition of a hidden gem: multiple hiking trails start from the campsite, only ten campsites (no electricity), view of the stars at night is breathtaking, swimming holes, bird life, etc.
Zululand Lodge just outside of Hluhluwe is a nice "glamping" private game reserve. The property manager, Martin, loves his job and will make sure you have a wonderful experience. They provide all meals and a bush walk of the property to look for zebras, leopard, hippo, etc. They will also help you organize a tour of Hluhluwe.
Midlands Meander is one hour away and a hilly beautiful area to explore.
In Durban and surrounding neighborhoods: Sibaya trails, Umhlanga Nature Reserve, water sports, fishing, sports games, pop up markets....
9. Is this a "shopping post"? Are there interesting handicrafts, artwork, antiques, or other items that people typically buy there?
Baskets and beaded jewelry and other trinkets. Most of the local handicrafts I bought are from a random vendor on the side of the road during one of our trips outside of Durban.
Mall shopping - Gateway Theatre and Oceans Mall are big shopping malls in Umhlanga.
A popular market is Shongweni Market - it's like a Farmer's market with live music, local crafts, coffee shops, and a play area for kids. They do have a couple stalls with the traditional African trinkets. It's not a developing world type market, and makes for a nice Saturday out. They frequently host concerts, beer festivals, etc.
There are frequent pop-up markets all around town, usually on the weekends. These markets have local businesses with stalls selling: plants, breads, produce, body creams/soaps, jewelry, candles, clothing, etc. Great for shopping around the holidays/birthdays.
10. What are the particular advantages of living in this city?
To be clear, we do not live "in" the city of Durban. The city crime ridden, run down, busy, has a high homeless population, drugs, etc., but the areas around the city are accessible and have something fun for everyone. Great restaurants, shopping, outdoor activities, beach views, friendly people, and more....
Words of Wisdom:
1. What do you wish you had known about this particular city/country before moving there?
That it is easy to fall in love with and will be very difficult to leave behind.
2. Knowing what you know now, would you still move to this city?
Most definitely.
3. If you move here, you can leave behind your:
Your left-hand drive car. South Africans drive on the left side of the road, and the steering wheel is on the right side. If you haven't done this before, it's easy to adjust to and takes about one day.
Some might say you should leave your puffy coat behind! However, if there is one day every year when you might want it (plus if you visit the Drakensbergs) you'll want it!
If you surf, leave your board behind and get a new one here. There are surf board shapers scattered all over Durban and it's easy to find a second hand board. Boards are more than affordable here.
4. But don't forget your:
Swim suits, snorkeling gear, hiking and camping equipment, positive attitude and patience.
