Athens, Greece Report of what it's like to live there - 07/14/12
Personal Experiences from Athens, Greece
Background:
1. Was this post your first expatriate experience? If not, what other cities have you lived in as an expat?
No, London. I grew up and lived in Athens until the age of 20.
2. What is your home city/country? How long is the trip to post from there, with what connections? How easy/difficult is it to travel to this city/country?
Washington, DC. 10 hours from NYC, 11 from Atlanta with Delta, direct. After 26 Oct 2012, no direct flights. Connections in many European cities.
3. How long have you lived here?
Have spent 20 years.
4. What brought you to this city (e.g. diplomatic mission, business, NGO, military, teaching, retirement, etc.)?
Government.
Housing, Groceries & Food:
1. What is your housing like? What are typical housing sizes, locations, and commute times for expatriates?
Apartments and houses in the northern suburbs, near where the Embassy is located. Better climate and houses in the southern suburbs. Traffic in Athens can be horrible, although the small Metro has helped alleviate some of it.
2. How would you describe the availability and cost of groceries and household supplies relative to your home country?
There are all types of stores ranging from small grocery stores to large supermarkets and department stores, MANY malls and shopping centers, especially around the city center and the suburbs of Kifisia (north) and Glyfada (south). Prices are not very cheap, and depend somewhat on the euro fluctuations. Bottom line, pretty much everything can be found, if for a price.
3. What household or grocery items do you wish you had shipped to post?
Pretty much everything is available in Athens, but I would say electronics and car parts are very expensive.
4. What typical restaurants, food delivery services, and/or takeout options are popular among expatriates?
McDonald's, KFC, Pizza Hut, Domino's, Goody's (local fast food restaurant chain), many souvlaki and gyro places. All cuisines are represented, except for good Mexican. Prices range from cheap to 5 star restaurants spread out all over the country, but mostly in the big cities and the islands. Speaking of the islands, good fish is available, even though not very cheap!
5. Are there any unusual problems with insects or other infestations in housing?
Mosquitoes during the summer months, mostly near water.
Daily Life:
1. How do you send and receive your letters and package mail? Are local postal facilities adequate?
There is DPO available for the Embassy. The Greek postal service is adequate, but customs will open a lot of stuff and charge luxury tax.
2. What is the availability and cost of household help, and what types of help are typically employed by expatriates?
There is lots of domestic help available, but not as cheap as it was 10-15 years ago when many Albanians and Eastern European first came over from behind the Iron Curtain.
3. What kinds of gyms or other sports/workout facilities are available? Are they expensive?
There is a small gym in the Embassy and MANY private gyms in Athens to join. Athens is not the best place to go running in the city due to the Greeks' VERY aggressive driving!
4. Are credit cards widely accepted and safe to use locally? Are ATMs common and do you recommend using them? Are they safe to use?
Credit cards are accepted almost everywhere, especially Visa and Mastercard. Diners is also used extensively, and to a lesser extent, American Express. ATMs can be found everywhere, but there have been cases of fraud (fake ATM readers which block your card) and thieves grabbing your money, so try to use sheltered ATMs!
5. What English-language religious services are available locally?
Yes, for both Catholics and Protestant.
6. English-language newspapers and TV available? Cost?
Many newsstands in the center of Athens and the tourist areas carry English-language newspapers and magazines from both the US and Great Britain. Satellite TV carrying many English-language programs is available is available through NOVA, to include DVR and HD service, as well as digital radio. Foreign movies and programs in Greece have subtitles in Greek.
7. How much of the local language do you need for daily living? Are local language classes/tutors available and affordable?
Greek is a VERY difficult language to learn but any little bit would help. All Greeks between the ages of 10-45 speak English and/or French.
8. Would someone with physical disabilities have difficulties living in this city?
Many difficulties. Greece is NOT a physical disabilities-friendly country. Athens is definitely NOT!
Transportation:
1. Are local buses, trams, trains or taxis safe and affordable?
The Metro is the newest in Europe and very good, if somewhat limited (about 35 stops). Train service outside Athens is very limited, mostly between Athens and the second largest city, Thessaloniki, to the north. Buses are effective and not very expensive. Taxis are everywhere, and not too expensive, but you MUST keep an eye on the meters for excessive charging. Taxi drivers are unscrupulous!
2. What kind of car do you recommend bringing to post, given the terrain, availability of parts, burglary/carjacking risks, etc.? What kind of car do you advise not to bring?
All types of vehicles can be found in Greece, and you will see more Porsches and Ferraris in Greece than NYC! However, due to the VERY expensive gas prices (approximately USD 8.00 a gallon!), most Greeks have smaller vehicles, 2.0 liter engines or less. There is a luxury tax for anything above 2 liter engines, making those above this threshold VERY expensive. Parking in Athens would be another consideration, so I would bring something smaller. SUVs are NOT needed.
Phone & Internet:
1. Is high-speed home Internet access available? How long does it typically take to install it after arrival?
High speed internet is available stand-alone or as a bundle with TV and telephone service. It is ADSL, so speeds depend on location of the main exchange. Price vary, $30-$100.
2. Do you have any recommendations regarding mobile phones? Did you keep your home-country plan or use a local provider?
Cell phones are everywhere and almost all of the country has coverage. Athens is completely covered by both GSM 900 MHz and 1800MHz, so you will need a multi-band phone or buy one there. Smartphones are available, but expensive, and so are the rates.
Pets:
1. Are qualified veterinarians and/or good kennel services available? Do animals need to be quarantined upon entry to the country? Are there other considerations regarding pets that are particular to this country?
A pet must have a current Health Certificate stating that it has been examined and shows no clinical signs or symptoms of infectious and contagious diseases; it has been vaccinated against rabies; and it has been treated against echinococcosis within thirty days prior to date of travel. This certificate is valid for 10 days from the date of loading. The rabies vaccination should be given not less than 15 days and not more than one year from the date of arrival in Greece. Birds must have a certificate stating that they are free from psittacosis.
2. Quality pet care available (vets & kennels)?
Have not used kennels, but they are available. There are very good animal doctors, speaking from personal experience.
Employment & Volunteer Opportunities:
1. What types of jobs do most expatriate spouses/partners have? Locally based or telecommuting? Full-time or part-time? Can you comment on local salary scales?
Greece has the second-highest Euro unemployment rate behind Spain (22%), so not many jobs available. Mostly teaching English and other languages.
2. What is the typical dress code at work and in public places? Is formal dress ever required?
More informal than some places. Some clubs and restaurants have strict codes, but loosen up during summertime.
Health & Safety:
1. Are there personal security concerns to be aware of at this post? Please describe.
Greece used to be the safest country in the world. However, in the last 10-12 years, robberies, murders and thefts, especially home break-ins, have surged. Certain areas near the center of Athens at night can be quite dangerous.
2. Are there any particular health concerns? What is the quality of available medical care? What medical conditions typically require medical evacuation?
Health concerns would be limited to sun-related maladies and traffic accidents! Medical care is available, but better at private hospitals than the publicly-run National Healthcare System.
3. What is the air quality like at post (good/moderate/bad)? Are there seasonal air quality issues? Does the air quality have an impact on health?
Bad in the center of Athens, especially during the summertime. Same smog conditions as LA. Away from the center, excellent.
4. What is the overall climate: is it extremely hot or cold, wet or dry, at any time of year, for example?
Mediterranean. Hot summers with low humidity, even though it has climbed in recent years. Wonderful during spring and fall, when it rains the most. It can be chilly during winter. In the interior of the country and the north, it can get quite cold during the winter.
Schools & Children:
1. What is the availability of international schools? What has been your general experience with them, if any?
American Community Schools and Pierce College (junior and high school). No personal experience, but have many friends who were OK with them. There are many private schools, although not necessarily English-speaking.
2. What accommodations do schools make for special-needs kids?
Nominal.
3. Are preschools available? Day care? Are these expensive? What has been your experience with them, if any? Do the schools provide before- and/or after-school care?
Many preschools available, but no personal experience.
4. Are local sports classes and/or activities available for kids?
There are, but not sure if non-EU citizens qualify that easy. The American Community Schools and some of the private schools have programs, mainly soccer, basketball, volleyball, and water sports.
Expat Life:
1. What is the relative size of the expatriate community? How would you describe overall morale among expatriates?
HUGE!
2. Morale among expats:
Have never heard anyone have a bad tour in Greece.
3. What are some typical ways to socialize, either with local people or with other expatriates? Are there groups or clubs that you can recommend?
There are many movies, theaters, bars, cafes, clubs, restaurants. Also, during the summer, many music and cultural festivals, and many are held in the ancient theaters. Great experience, even though it's in ancient Greek! Greeks are partying people, and your social life will NOT suffer!
4. Is this a good city for single people? For couples? For families? Why or why not?
Absolutely! Even though I would definitely spend a lot of time traveling the islands, as well as the other interesting places in the interior of the country. Not many parks in Athens, but miles of beaches in the south-east and west/south-west of Attica, the prefecture (state) where Athens is located.
5. Is this a good city for LGBT expatriates? Why or why not?
Used to be hush-hush, but it has become very cosmopolitan, especially in the last few years.
6. Are there problems with ethnic, race/racial minorities or religious prejudices? Gender equality?
There didn't used to be many foreigners, but in the last few years many Afghans, Pakistanis, African, and especially Albanians have flooded the country, leading to rising crime. Due to this, there have been some racially motivated crimes. The Greek-Orthodox church dominates the religious landscape, although there are some Muslims and few Catholics in Greece. Women may be hassled a little, mainly in touristy areas.
7. What have been the highlights of your time in this country? Best trips or experiences?
Great weather, although hot in summer. Visiting the Acropolis and the islands. Also, seeing first-hand the changes to modern state, and it's current troubles.
8. What are some interesting/fun things to do in the area? Can you recommend any “hidden gems"?
See the antiquities and some older neighborhoods in Athens. Shopping. Swimming in some of the best beaches in Europe, although most are located in the islands. Speaking of islands, there are MANY to choose from, but at least initially, I would stick to the Cyclades, a cluster of islands south of Athens.
9. Is this a "shopping post"? Are there interesting handicrafts, artwork, antiques, or other items that people typically buy there?
Pottery, jewelry, honey, sweets.
10. What are the particular advantages of living in this city?
Weather, ancient history, food.
11. Can you save money?
Yes, if you don't travel extensively or eat out all the time!
Words of Wisdom:
1. Knowing what you know now, would you still move to this city?
Yes, but only for short tours.
2. If you move here, you can leave behind your:
Customer service minimums (don't exist) and your confidence that you can drive anywhere (Greeks are the worst drivers on earth, or close to it). Also our very heavy weather gear, unless you go skiing.
3. But don't forget your:
Sun screen, patience, walking shoes, and swim gear!
4. Do you recommend any books or movies about this city/country for those who are interested in learning more?
Greece Athens & The Mainland (EYEWITNESS TRAVEL GUIDE)
by Stephen Brewer (Nov 29, 2011), The Peloponnesian War
by Donald Kagan (Apr 27, 2004).
