Milan, Italy Report of what it's like to live there - 08/15/13
Personal Experiences from Milan, Italy
Background:
1. Was this post your first expatriate experience? If not, what other cities have you lived in as an expat?
No. Mexico and other European countries.
2. What is your home city/country? How long is the trip to post from there, with what connections? How easy/difficult is it to travel to this city/country?
From U.S., the most common and convenient flights are direct overnights from New York or Miami.
3. How long have you lived here?
Going on two years.
4. What brought you to this city (e.g. diplomatic mission, business, NGO, military, teaching, retirement, etc.)?
U.S. Consulate employee.
Housing, Groceries & Food:
1. What is your housing like? What are typical housing sizes, locations, and commute times for expatriates?
Milan is very urban. Good urban in my opinion. All USG housing is urban apartments near the Consulate. If you like urban living, you will like it here. If you like suburban living, then if you are with the USG you are out of luck. If you are not with the USG, you can find places on the outskirts of the city that are less urban, but don't expect a picket fence and nice yard. USG housing is good and getting better. Generally 2 or 3 beds if you are a single or a couple. 3 or 4 if you have kids. Parking garages are not always in the building you live in, but a short walk away. Remember this is an urban environment - noise is a common complaint. Otherwise, people seem pretty happy with the housing.
2. How would you describe the availability and cost of groceries and household supplies relative to your home country?
More expensive than the U.S. - I'd say about 30% more. If you're with the USG, you get a COLA. You can get most everything you need here, but you will be frustrated and charmed by the boutique nature of the stores. If you want a pot or pan, then you go to the pots and pan store that only sells pots and pans. If you want a lamp, you go to the lamp store. Some of this is due to Italian culture, some of it is due to an urban environment where real estate space is expensive and small. You can get a bit more big box experience if you drive outside the city, but don't expect anything like a Target. There is an IKEA. You will go there. Even if it is against your religion and you break out in hives to visit an IKEA, you will go there. It is that, or if you buy any furniture, linens, etc. you will be at the mercy of some boutique shop that will charge you five times what you'd expect to pay for something that is in a style and color you don't want.
3. What household or grocery items do you wish you had shipped to post?
For USG personnel, remember this is an unfurnished post. Bring your furniture. But don't bring too much! You're in an apartment, not a house, so all your furniture may not fit. Go clothes shopping before coming here. Clothes are pricey and you may not find Italian fashion a fit to your liking or waistline. As for consumables, you can leave it all behind expect for real specialty items. For me, there are only 4 things I would ship if doing it again: zip lock bags, pumpkin puree, Cumin (can't find it anywhere here), and liquid vanilla extract (it's all powder here and that can wreak havoc on your favorite baking recipes). Even then, you can still get all the American stuff at the commissary at the Army base a couple hours drive from Milan if you really need it.
4. What typical restaurants, food delivery services, and/or takeout options are popular among expatriates?
Fast food is McDonald's, Burger King, Turkish kebabs, and pizza. The pizza that you can get fast (i.e. pre-made and sitting, waiting for you to buy by the slice) is hit and miss. Best way to eat pizza here is at a sit down restaurant. The kebabs places are surprisingly abundant and addictive. I almost forgot the panini (sandwiches) and piadine (wraps) which you can get at the bars at every street corner. By the way, a bar is not a place you go to get drunk. It is where you go to get your coffee. If you want to be a part of the culture here, you need to figure out the coffee system. It's complicated, it's fun, and it's essential to Milanese life. If you don't drink caffeine, there are still options for you. There are lots of Italian restaurants in Milan - and although most of it is good, not all is. It is difficult to find non-Italian restaurants in this city, but they do exist if you hunt. You see, Italians believe Italian food to be the best, so why eat anything else?
5. Are there any unusual problems with insects or other infestations in housing?
The Milanese will tell you they have a mosquito problem. They don't. In the summer there are some mosquitos, but nothing really terrible and it is only for a couple months.
Daily Life:
1. How do you send and receive your letters and package mail? Are local postal facilities adequate?
For USG personnel, DPO.
2. What is the availability and cost of household help, and what types of help are typically employed by expatriates?
Expensive. This will suck your finances dry if you need it/want it. This is handled by immigrants mostly. Expect to pay 10 euro an hour plus contributions to Italian social security and extra pay for the "13th month".
3. What kinds of gyms or other sports/workout facilities are available? Are they expensive?
Plenty. Italians work out and look good. The Consulate has a very nice gym.
4. Are credit cards widely accepted and safe to use locally? Are ATMs common and do you recommend using them? Are they safe to use?
Both easy to use. Setting up an Italian bank account is intimidating but doable and is a way to avoid ATM fees. A lot of people just rely on the ATM from their U.S. bank and live with the fees.
5. What English-language religious services are available locally?
Yes, they are available.
6. English-language newspapers and TV available? Cost?
Not all that much actually. Some people us AFN, but are generally less than enthusiastic about it. Better to rely on internet for this. Also, if you really really like your U.S. TV shows, sports in particular, then you should research slingbox before coming here. The people that have set it up rave about it, but you need to do work on it before leaving for post.
7. How much of the local language do you need for daily living? Are local language classes/tutors available and affordable?
It is best to have some Italian. A surprising number of people don't know English here. The grocery store is an adventure without Italian. But, if you don't have it, you will survive and will still make friends if you smile.
8. Would someone with physical disabilities have difficulties living in this city?
Not every building has elevators and elevators are often too small for a wheelchair. Sidewalks are more navigable that I thought they would be. This is city is laid out in a grid with rationale streets and transportation. Some say that makes it less charming than Rome. I say it makes it more livable.
Transportation:
1. Are local buses, trams, trains or taxis safe and affordable?
Public transportation is great here. Really good coverage, safe, easy to use. Metro, buses, free network of commuter bicycles, and the city is incredibly walkable. Taxis are plentiful and although not cheap, not terribly expensive either.
2. What kind of car do you recommend bringing to post, given the terrain, availability of parts, burglary/carjacking risks, etc.? What kind of car do you advise not to bring?
Smaller is better. Actually, I don't recommend bringing a vehicle here. For USG personnel, you can walk or take public transportation. Half of people in this city don't have cars.
If you decide you want a vehicle, you can buy one here. You will be exempt from the 21% VAT tax, so after driving the vehicle for 2 or 3 years, you can sell it for basically what you paid for it. Easier to insure and maintain if you buy it here. U.S. vehicles don't meet regulation here, so you will need to get a waiver to bring in a U.S. vehicle. That can come back to bite you when you depart and you can't or don't want to take your car with you. Since it doesn't meet regs, you can't sell it to an Italian - only diplomats. That is a very small market. So, you end of junking it or selling it at a significant loss. My advice is to sell your car in the U.S., trying living without one for a couple months, and then if you decide you want one, buy one locally.
Phone & Internet:
1. Is high-speed home Internet access available? How long does it typically take to install it after arrival?
Yes, good and affordable. Fastweb is my recommendation. It takes 3 weeks to get setup, but worth the wait. You can buy a 3G pay as you go data plan and fob for a laptop while you wait.
2. Do you have any recommendations regarding mobile phones? Did you keep your home-country plan or use a local provider?
If you work for the Consulate you will be issued one. For non-USG people or family members of USG personnel, you'll want to get a phone. Lots of options. You buy the equipment and then you buy a SIM card with a plan separate. It is not like the US with the 2 to 3 month contract where you agree to pay them exorbitant fees, you get trapped paying for years, they get to name your first-born, etc. in exchange for a free phone. Biggest providers are TIM (Italian telecom), FastWeb, Wind, and Vodaphone. TIM has best coverage and service and by far higher prices. Vodaphone has surprisingly spotty coverage - I recommend against. Wind is cheapest but support is not as strong, although coverage adequate. Fastweb is a good compromise of quality and price.
Pets:
1. Are qualified veterinarians and/or good kennel services available? Do animals need to be quarantined upon entry to the country? Are there other considerations regarding pets that are particular to this country?
2. Quality pet care available (vets & kennels)?
Very good. Italians love their dogs. But they don't clean up after them, so the streets are often spotted with dog feces. Yuck.
Employment & Volunteer Opportunities:
1. What types of jobs do most expatriate spouses/partners have? Locally based or telecommuting? Full-time or part-time? Can you comment on local salary scales?
Isn't the answer to this always no? It's not impossible to get a job here, but not easy. Limited opportunities for family members of diplomats at the U.S. Consulate.
2. What is the typical dress code at work and in public places? Is formal dress ever required?
Urban chic. Italians care about image more than your average American - you will be judged based on what you wear. At the US Consulate, we actually tend to dress down more than at Italian-owned places of business or government. Men will surprise you with their wide assortment of pastel-colored jeans. Women always wear heels. And in the summer, they wear summer dresses and heels while riding bicycles, all over the place. It's nearly an invasion.
Health & Safety:
1. Are there personal security concerns to be aware of at this post? Please describe.
Nope. Very safe city. I feel safer here than in most U.S. cities. Your security briefing will focus mostly on pickpocketing - now that is my kind of security briefing! The standard apartment building here has a portinaio (a doorman) who screens people as they come through the front door of your building. Police presence is strong and they are good and responsive. Home break-ins rise during August because thieves know people are out of town. But if you take steps to let would be robbers know you are still home (lights and TV on) they'll move on. Gun crime is non-existent. You'll read in the papers about a mafia slaying and it will be huge news because it is the only gun death that month in the entire country. Seriously, it's pretty darn safe here. One person in the Consulate in the last year was mugged, but she was a bit naive and didn't use some common sense.
2. Are there any particular health concerns? What is the quality of available medical care? What medical conditions typically require medical evacuation?
Very good. Don't worry about this one.
3. What is the air quality like at post (good/moderate/bad)? Are there seasonal air quality issues? Does the air quality have an impact on health?
It is an urban environment, so you do have some smog. Milan is surrounded by mountains, so that traps some of the air pollution and keeps it in the city. But really, it is not a big deal. Comparable to a large U.S. city; very similar to DC.
4. What is the overall climate: is it extremely hot or cold, wet or dry, at any time of year, for example?
Mild in general. If you have lived in DC, I like to say it is similar, but a couple degrees warmer throughout the year. We get snow in the winter, but no blizzards. Summer, especially August, can get hot. The city shuts down in mid August for 2 weeks while the Italians flee to the sea and mountains. Last winter was surprisingly grey - little sun for weeks on end. Southern Italians like to make fun of the grey, cold Milan weather. But really, not too bad.
Schools & Children:
1. What is the availability of international schools? What has been your general experience with them, if any?
Not a lot of personal experience with this. There are several options and people seem happy with them. There is an American school here that is very pricey - more expensive than the quality. Americans like it though. There is a good British and Canadian school. French, German, and Swiss schools too. If you are paying out of pocket, most expat options are expensive!
2. What accommodations do schools make for special-needs kids?
No experience with this. My gut says that most likely you can find a school that will accommodate your needs if you do your homework. This is a modern, first world country and city.
3. Are preschools available? Day care? Are these expensive? What has been your experience with them, if any? Do the schools provide before- and/or after-school care?
Preschool is subsidized for Italians - if you are an expat, it is most likely you won't qualify for that program. There are plenty of private options, but expect to pay ,1000 euros or more a month. There are English-speaking schools in addition to Italian (of course), German, and French.
4. Are local sports classes and/or activities available for kids?
No experience, but I believe yes.
Expat Life:
1. What is the relative size of the expatriate community? How would you describe overall morale among expatriates?
Sizable. The Milan metro area accounts for over 1/3 of the Italian GDP. It is the banking, manufacturing, marketing, and fashion capital of Italy. Tourism is not much of an industry here, and in fact is often referred to as the "ugly" city of Italy - unfair in my opinion. That seems to suit the Milanese just fine who would rather get along with their jobs than have to dodge tourists in the streets. This economic base brings an international cohort of professionals. I am often asked which bank or company I work at. Never once been asked if I was a tourist. When you go to Rome, Florence, or Venice, you are constantly looked at as a tourist. It makes expat life in Milan very pleasant.
2. Morale among expats:
High. You get the occasional unhappy person, but it has nothing to do with the city.
3. What are some typical ways to socialize, either with local people or with other expatriates? Are there groups or clubs that you can recommend?
Strong. Italians like to entertain, although more away from the home than in. The aperitivo culture is strong in Milan. Basically, bars around 6:00 pm will start luring customers in by offering free food. Some places it is meager, but others offer quite a spread of finger foods. You can make a meal out of it. Buy a drink if you eat - it is brutta figura (bad form/rude) if you don't.
4. Is this a good city for single people? For couples? For families? Why or why not?
Great for everyone. Probably best for singles and couples without kids. But still great for families with kids. Singles scene (from what I understand) is good here for both men and women (yeah, score one for the ladies!). Knowing Italian will help you socialize more, but not knowing is not a barrier if you are outgoing. Italians genuinely like Americans and you can find people that speak English. This is not northern Europe or a Germanic country where every Tom, Dick, and Harry speaks English, but you will be able to muddle through. As an American, you are generally viewed as interesting and a little exotic.
Couples probably have it the best here. So much traveling to do. So many restaurants to eat at. Operas and museums to attend together. People with little kids will find it harder and more expensive to take advantage of the travel opportunities. Going out when you have little kids is hard since things start later and babysitting is hard to find and pricey. I have heard parents of teenage kids express concern that there just is not a large enough English-speaking (or probably just a not well-enough formed one) for their kids to hang out with peers. Italian youths seem to take longer to mature than U.S. ones and expat teens may find it hard to relate to them, especially if you don't know Italian.
5. Is this a good city for LGBT expatriates? Why or why not?
Yes, from what I have heard and seen.
6. Are there problems with ethnic, race/racial minorities or religious prejudices? Gender equality?
Italians will tell you there is no racism here. But there is. Black individuals stand out and you will feel it. I don't think there is much risk of any overt aggression, but you will probably notice you will be treated differently from time to time. Teens might feel it even more. People of Asian descent as well have the same problem. Italians like to blame their problems on immigrants and integration has been a major failure point for Italian society. I don't want to overstate the problem - I don't think you need to decide against coming because of this alone. Nationality can be a shield - if you make it clear you are American, British, Canadian, Aussie, etc. that will be the identity Italians focus on more than race.
Italians are a couple decades behind the U.S. when it comes to gender equality. Legally, the protection is there, but the high-paying jobs and power positions go to men. Women are expected to control the domestic sphere. To combat this, many women over the last 30 years decided to "opt out" of family life - which accounts for Italy's pitiful birth rate. Generally, though, Milan is better than the rest of Italy.
7. What have been the highlights of your time in this country? Best trips or experiences?
Venice, Rome, Switzerland, Sardegna, Naples, Verona, the Italian Riviera, etc., etc., etc. Lots and lots of good day trips from Milan. The numerous lakes and the Alps are a short drive or train ride (1 hour to 1.5 hours). The mountain and lake areas are breathtaking, affordable, and easy.
8. What are some interesting/fun things to do in the area? Can you recommend any “hidden gems"?
Read what I said about advantages and highlights of this city. If you can't find something to do, then you aren't trying. The urban parks in the city are good. City also hosts fashion and furniture design weeks and a couple fairs (you know, with ferris wheels and kiddie rides) a couple times a year. There is a castle in this city. Great museums too.
9. Is this a "shopping post"? Are there interesting handicrafts, artwork, antiques, or other items that people typically buy there?
Not too much in the way of artisan work is done here anymore. You can get ceramics, furniture, and clothes.
10. What are the particular advantages of living in this city?
This city is an international transportation hub of Europe. You can take trains from here throughout Europe and many nearby countries - all of which are worth visiting. With 3 airports and a central location, Milan is a great place to visit Europe. Be flexible about where you want to go, keep your eyes peeled for deals and you can do Europe on the cheap from here.
11. Can you save money?
You don't come here to save money. If you do, you've missed the point.
Words of Wisdom:
1. Knowing what you know now, would you still move to this city?
Yes. Without a second thought.
2. If you move here, you can leave behind your:
I could say, "your romanticized idea of the Italian way of life" or some other such rubbish. Really, it is in my opinion really easy to adjust to life here and obtain what you need, so don't sweat it too much.
3. But don't forget your:
Overnight bag and travel guides. And your designer clothes. You get Prada and Gucci cheaper in the U.S., so buy them there.
4. Recommended movies/DVDs related to this city:
Benvenuti al Sud.
5. Do you recommend any books or movies about this city/country for those who are interested in learning more?
For USG personnel, A Kidnapping in Milan by Steve Hendricks
6. Do you have any other comments?
Expat living doesn't get much better on this.
