Milan, Italy Report of what it's like to live there - 09/21/16
Personal Experiences from Milan, Italy
Background:
1. Was this post your first expatriate experience? If not, what other cities have you lived in as an expat?
No. Previously Frankfurt, Germany and Belgrade, Serbia.
2. What is your home city/country? How long is the trip to post from there, with what connections? How easy/difficult is it to travel to this city/country?
Washington, DC
3. How long have you lived here?
Nearly 2 years
4. What brought you to this city (e.g. diplomatic mission, business, NGO, military, teaching, retirement, etc.)?
Husband's job at the US Consulate
Housing, Groceries & Food:
1. What is your housing like? What are typical housing sizes, locations, and commute times for expatriates?
Spacious apartment in the center of town. Most apartments are spacious and within a 15 min walking radius to the consulate. Some are modern, and many are old. Our apartment is in an 1930's building, another apartment is part of an old palazzo.
2. How would you describe the availability and cost of groceries and household supplies relative to your home country?
Italy = Food. Groceries are abundant and often less expensive than in the US. Very fresh, at times seasonal. Household supplies are readily available.
3. What household or grocery items do you wish you had shipped to post?
Nothing. But of course we do order the occasional Trader Joe's taco seasoning. Especially since we can't even get that at the commissary in Vicenza :-)
4. What typical restaurants, food delivery services, and/or takeout options are popular among expatriates?
Most restaurants offer a variety of Italian regional cuisine. Ethnic restaurants vary in quality and are seldom as good as those we are used to from the DMV area. And those that are, are usually very expensive.
Food delivery is available via 'deliveroo' and from various pizza places. We haven't used any, and I don't know who has.
5. Are there any unusual problems with insects or other infestations in housing?
Nope.
Daily Life:
1. How do you send and receive your letters and package mail? Are local postal facilities adequate?
Stateside mail etc via DPO and Pouch, European mail the Italian post office. No problems there.
2. What is the availability and cost of household help, and what types of help are typically employed by expatriates?
Household help at about 10Euro/hr plus an allowance for insurance is not everyone's cup of tea. Most that do have help, have help to clean the house once or twice a week.
3. What kinds of gyms or other sports/workout facilities are available? Are they expensive?
There are several facilities in town: gyms, yoga studios, public indoor pools...All more on the pricey side. Gyms are heavily concentrated on cardio it seems.
4. Are credit cards widely accepted and safe to use locally? Are ATMs common and do you recommend using them? Are they safe to use?
Yes, yes, and yes. No problem here.
5. What English-language religious services are available locally?
I have seen churches offering English language services.
6. How much of the local language do you need for daily living? Are local language classes/tutors available and affordable?
If you're working at the consulate don't sweat it. Outside you'll get by with very little. If you want to work on the economy you need to be nearly fluent. For your basic shopping, restaurant visits etc the more you know the better; but not essential.
7. Would someone with physical disabilities have difficulties living in this city?
Yes. Unfortunately you can't find elevators or ramps everywhere, and if you do they might be too narrow for a wheelchair to get in. Doorways are often very narrow too, especially in the older buildings. Broad cobblestones, high entries to trams, steps to get into shops...
Transportation:
1. Are local buses, trams, trains or taxis safe and affordable?
Absolutely! Trains, metro, trams, buses, taxi all available, affordable and safe. Also car2go and enjoy, like zipcars; and bikeme (like capitolbike)
2. What kind of car do you recommend bringing to post, given the terrain, availability of parts, burglary/carjacking risks, etc.? What kind of car do you advise not to bring?
I would not bring a large SUV or minivan if my family size does not require it. It is an old European city and parking is rare, and the spots are very narrow!
Phone & Internet:
1. Is high-speed home Internet access available? How long does it typically take to install it after arrival?
Yes. Intermittent.
It took about 2 weeks for our hook-up. It generally works well, but at times is 'intermittent': Dropping the connection and reconnecting.
2. Do you have any recommendations regarding mobile phones? Did you keep your home-country plan or use a local provider?
I use Tim, my husband uses vodafone. It's pretty much the same by means of cost and coverage. We ditched our home-country plan.
Pets:
1. Are qualified veterinarians and/or good kennel services available? Do animals need to be quarantined upon entry to the country? Are there other considerations regarding pets that are particular to this country?
Absolutely! Italians, and it seems particularly Milanes, LOVE their dogs! No quarantine necessary, but do make sure to have the European guidelines fullfilled upon entering. Italians are sticklers for bureaucracy, even more than Germans! Veterinarians are plenty and good. We just had a major problem with our 10yr labmix; surgery and all, and he is doing great again. We were lucky to have had our dog at a private home for a week at 35Euro/day. He was included in the family. I don't know of other kennels personally but one of the many pet shops can give that info, as well as one of the many dog walkers you will find in the parks at a daily basis.
Employment & Volunteer Opportunities:
1. What types of jobs do most expatriate spouses/partners have? Locally based or telecommuting? Full-time or part-time? Can you comment on local salary scales?
None. Italy's economy is not so hot, unemployment is high. It is very difficult to find employment on the economy; and the consulate is so small that there are no EFM positions to be had other than the CLO. Which has just been filled as a jobshare. Yayh! That was a great decision by management!
2. What volunteer opportunities are available locally?
Look hard enough and you find it. I am sure our new CLO's will be able to steer people in the right direction.
3. What is the typical dress code at work and in public places? Is formal dress ever required?
It's Milan! One of the fashion capitals of the World! Smart business, rarely smart casual.
Health & Safety:
1. Are there personal security concerns to be aware of at this post? Please describe.
Pick pocketing, bicycle theft. Not too bad. However, as a woman - especially if I was still young and pretty- I should be very aware of my surroundings particularly at night. It seems to me that rape and rufis happens too often.
2. Are there any particular health concerns? What is the quality of available medical care? What medical conditions typically require medical evacuation?
Medical care is available and usually very good to excellent. If you have respiratory problems this might not be the best post for you as the air does get really bad at times.
3. What is the air quality like at post (good/moderate/bad)? Are there seasonal air quality issues? Does the air quality have an impact on health?
See above! Milan is like a bowl and the air sits until strong winds blow everything out, or it rains. Summer gets really bad with heat and humidity but no rain for weeks.
And everyone smokes it seems. You'll find yourself walking behind people smoking or just through wads of smoke from people standing in the street smoking.
4. What do people who suffer from environmental or food allergies need to know?
Environmental: Consider air quality! Fall and winters are quite wet, so the leaves and the grass areas can become moldy. And of course spring and summer come with the usual array of pollen.
Food allergies should not be a concern. If needed gluten free, raw vegan, organic is all available.
5. Are there any particular mental health issues that tend to crop up at post, such as Seasonal Affective Disorder (winter blues)?
Not that I know of.
6. What is the overall climate: is it extremely hot or cold, wet or dry, at any time of year, for example?
Pretty much on par with DC, but warmer in winter and longer summers.
Schools & Children:
1. What is the availability of international schools? What has been your general experience with them, if any?
There are a number of International schools available. As I don't have a child in school I can't say about quality etc.
2. What accommodations do schools make for special-needs kids?
3. Are preschools available? Day care? Are these expensive? What has been your experience with them, if any? Do the schools provide before- and/or after-school care?
4. Are local sports classes and/or activities available for kids?
There are sports clubs for kids, i.e. gymnastics, soccer, swimming...but I don't have any personal experience with either.
Expat Life:
1. What is the relative size of the expatriate community? How would you describe overall morale among expatriates?
There is a large amount of foreigners in Milan. And all spread about town.
2. What are some typical ways to socialize, either with local people or with other expatriates? Are there groups or clubs that you can recommend?
Having a coffee (espresso), going to aperitivo or dinners. There is the Benvenuto Club (like an international women's club), and a facebook group 'Young professional women of Milan'. I'm quite sure there are others too, but I haven't felt the need to join one.
3. Is this a good city for single people? For couples? For families? Why or why not?
Milan is good for everyone. Maybe families would rather live a little closer to one another and closer to schools...
4. Is this a good city for LGBT expatriates? Why or why not?
Yes. More and more acceptance for LGBT, and a very lively scene.
5. Are there problems with ethnic, race/racial minorities or religious prejudices? Gender equality?
Some. An Indian friend of mine had some issues because people thought she was a household help and could not possibly live in the posh building she lived in, and was often looked down upon or even ignored.
Italian men are machos. Which doesn't mean they necessarily help you or open the door for you. That would be gentlemen. Gender equality is still a far way off.
6. What have been the highlights of your time in this country? Best trips or experiences?
Trips to the lakes are always great and easily done! Lago di Como is an easy 1hr train nride from Milan.
Italy is like one huge open air museum. And if that's not enough, cheap flights out can be found via ryanair, eurojet and other lowcost carriers
7. What are some interesting/fun things to do in the area? Can you recommend any “hidden gems"?
The giant fleamarket along the Navigli on the last sundays of the month March through October, walking the streets aimlessly and discovering shops, bars, restaurants, parks, and great architecture.
8. Is this a "shopping post"? Are there interesting handicrafts, artwork, antiques, or other items that people typically buy there?
Wouldn't say that. Milan is expensive when it comes to these things. Better go out of town to find inexpensive treasures.
9. What are the particular advantages of living in this city?
Super short commute is fabulous! The availability of public transport in all forms can hardly be beaten! And most is punctual! So much beauty all around!
Words of Wisdom:
1. What do you wish you had known about this particular city/country before moving there?
Nothing really.
2. Knowing what you know now, would you still move to this city?
Absolutely.
3. If you move here, you can leave behind your:
Expectation of saving money. Or loosing weight.
4. But don't forget your:
Patience!
'Piano, piano' (slow, slow), 'Allora' (well, then) and 'meh' (whatever) have become staples in my vocabulary.
5. Do you recommend any books or movies about this city/country for those who are interested in learning more?
A good travel guide is always recommended. Don't think 'Eat, Pray, Love' or 'House in the Tuscan Sun' or similar movies showcase the reality of Italy.
6. Do you have any other comments?
As long as you have patience and are easy-going, this is a great place to be!
